Electronic ignitions

Ron Lachniet

Ron Lachniet

Senior Member
What do you think about going to electronic ignitions like the FS. It seems like this could eliminate a lot of spark problems.
 
I've been running a Remund distributor since 2004. Cost $275. Works very well. Auto advance. Instant starts, even with the crank. Engine seems to run smoother and stronger than with the stock distributor, though mine might have been worn.

On the other hand, I'm still using points in my '78 Suzuki.
 
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Ron Lachniet said:
What do you think about going to electronic ignitions like the FS. It seems like this could eliminate a lot of spark problems.
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While I am a proponent for FS Ignitions, ...I am intrigued (curious??) when you say it "...could eliminate a lot of spark problems". Would you be so kind as to clarify exactly what you are saying or what that means so I can determine in my own mind whether the Ignitor set-up is right for you. Thanks.

.
 
I installed a FS "Zipper" in my "30 Tudor and noticed a definite improvement in performance. Plus FS is a pleasure to do business with.
 
I am new to Model As and have no issues with my modern points, but it seems like more people have issues with points and condencers than most other things so I am trying to be proactive so I can enjoy a summers driving with one less concern. Thank you very much for your input.
 
I have run the FS Modern Ditributor (6V) for three years. Part way through my first year I tried to start it in the garage and nothing. Returned to FS. Looks like I must have burned out the igniter with the key left on? Don't remember doing that, but FS was excellent. I bought a replacement igniter and they sent back the unit with a new igniter and a spare that I bought. I still love the way it drives, but I keep a totally functional original distributor in the car in case this igniter dies at any time. Can't go wrong dealing with FS
 
I put an FS zipper in my coupe a couple months back and I like the reliability. I'm not completely sold on the centrifugal advance because I haven't been able to get a timing light on it at high revs, but haven't had any problems.

I think because I have "speed stuff" on my engine (headers, Weber carb, hc head) the temps were killing condensers--I went through three condensers in five months :( . Not having to hassle with keeping spares and doing replacements at the same frequency as oil changes will be a nice feature.

Also nice is that anyone can drive my car now without my needing to explain or supervise use of the spark lever. Though I suppose there might be folks out there who like having an excuse for not having their car driven by others :)
 
I bought a Nurex unit several years ago, but before I got around to installing it, the "boxless" Pertronix unit came out and I went with that. I had to imagine there was a performance difference between my previous modern-point mod and the electronic, except (1) the coil sure gets hot at idle, (2) it draws about twice the amperage in that moment between turning on the key and actual starting, so you will drain the battery fast and possibly do some damage to the unit if you accidentallly leave the key on, (3) you can't use the trick about watching or listening for the spark at the points when you're setting the timing, and (4) I'm now one of the club members who NEVER has to stop along the road to reset his closed-up points.

I would be eager to sell the unused Nurex unit cheap if anyone is interested.

Steve
 

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Ron Lachniet said:
I am new to Model As and have no issues with my modern points, but it seems like more people have issues with points and condencers than most other things so I am trying to be proactive so I can enjoy a summers driving with one less concern. Thank you very much for your input.
Click to expand...

I am running a completely stock and original ignition, except for a repro switch, which will get replaced with an original popout later. My car starts in one or tow compression strokes, even after setting 6 months untouched over the long Minnesota winters. It also starts in one or two compression strokes if I hand crank it, which I do sometimes just for fun. The repro switch gave me a problem with poor contacts until I took it apart and fixed it, but the original coil and distributor have never given me a problem.

The big advantage of this is, no extra cost:o, easy to fix on the road if there is a problem, and it's nice to keep the car as original as possible.:)

My original coil gives the spark plug good fire to start the mixture burning, and never misses, so I'm having a problem understanding how a spark from some other ignition is going to improve my car's performance.
 
Ron Lachniet said:
I am new to Model As and have no issues with my modern points, but it seems like more people have issues with points and condencers than most other things so I am trying to be proactive so I can enjoy a summers driving with one less concern. Thank you very much for your input.
Click to expand...

I understand now. Quite honestly, the only reason I am a believer in with them is the timing (degrees before TDC) on all cylinders is totally equal rather than slight variations you get with all but NOS dist cams, ...and a little more coil saturation time (hotter spark). Earlier this week I had a customer that grossly overheated his engine and because the wiring on the FS Ignition burned where the vehicle could not be restarted, it probably saved the engine from further destruction.

One other thing I would like to point out is that using the FS Pertronix set-up will not cure problems resulting from a worn out distributer, ...which ironically, is the root problem of why most people have ignition problems to begin with IMHO.

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I know my brother's original points have been very unreliable.

After 40 years, the used points that came with the car in 1970 still work great. After the first 16 years dealing with old type condensers he got a new burn out proof condenser with a solder tab. The solder tab broke off. He ran it with the tab bent to touch the can for a bunch of years. He told A&L and they handed him a new spot welded tab condenser which he change out the working condenser a couple of years ago.

He has to baby his car these days after a rod lost it babbitt. He slid in another unmatched rod which unbalanced the engine some. He tries to keep in no faster then 55 MPH. Before he would run upwards of 65 MPH.

Yup, those original points with a modern burn out proof just can not be trusted and does not let the car perform well.
 
Kevin in NJ said:
I know my brother's original points have been very unreliable.

After 40 years, the used points that came with the car in 1970 still work great. After the first 16 years dealing with old type condensers he got a new burn out proof condenser with a solder tab. The solder tab broke off. He ran it with the tab bent to touch the can for a bunch of years. He told A&L and they handed him a new spot welded tab condenser which he change out the working condenser a couple of years ago.

He has to baby his car these days after a rod lost it babbitt. He slid in another unmatched rod which unbalanced the engine some. He tries to keep in no faster then 55 MPH. Before he would run upwards of 65 MPH.

Yup, those original points with a modern burn out proof just can not be trusted and does not let the car perform well.
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Tongue in cheek??
 
I have had a Nu-Rex unit in my Pheaton for over 50,000 miles. The only issue I have had with it was at about 12,000 miles when I lost good ground contact from the electronic module to the frame. It took about 400 miles of unreliable starts to trace the problem. I carry a spare module with me. I had to remove some of the stock components to install the Nu-Rex so simply switching back to a stock distributor on the road would be a bit of work. I have the removed components in a sealed container and carry it under the seat...just in case. With the fellow Model A people I travel or tour with, someone or two have a spare distributor ready to go. So I consider myself triple covered.
If I were purchasing an electronic ignition system now, I would purchase a unit that totally resides in the distributor. I would then carry a spare distributor with stock components in it as a back-up to the electronic unit. I am building an era hop up and plan to purchase an FS Ignition unit when it is ready to hit the road.
Good Day!
Dave in MN
 
Yes Tongue in Cheek.

It never fails to amaze how people 'upgrade' to modern thinking it is more reliable.

Then you read about the spare distributer in the trunk and how it only took 400 miles to find a bad ground.

The electronic units have a use, but that is not on 99% of the Model A's running. If you are running hot engine you need the extra spark for the high compression.

Subtle stuff will upset an electronic module. Yes, done right they are fine. How many guys understand the electrics well enough to know right and wrong?

I just helped my brother fix a Ferrari Testerosa. It would not run right and the Ferrari guys couldn't figure it out. Turned out to be bad grounds to wire terminals and bad crimps on the wires. Real subtle stuff. Everyone else just assumed it was a fuel air delivery problem and played with all the screws.
The same stuff that could happen with how guys are going to wire in their electronic units on their A's. The Ferrari is just an over priced kit car using the same wire ends you see in guys shops. No steps were taken to keep weather from damaging the connections. A little of water, maybe some summer humidity and in 5 to 10 years the connections get a little extra resistance. Car will start to run strange and then what do you do?

Mean while the guy with the original distributer set up correct will probably be passing the car untouched to his son and his sons son.

I should add, I was just using Dave to put a point across (thanks Dave for being understanding).
Dave is running a high compression engine with many mods and the electronic ignition brings many advantages in his set up. Dave is a very experienced A builder and did what was best for his build. He did not just put the modern stuff on because it was new and should be better.
 
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Kevin in NJ said:
Mean while the guy with the original distributer set up correct will probably be passing the car untouched to his son and his sons son.
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Just so, Kevin. I suspect that a good number of owners enjoy coaxing good, reliable performance out of original equipment. I know I do.

Convert an 18th century flintlock rifle to percussion ignition and it may fire every time, but it's no longer an 18th century flintlock rifle.

Everyone in every hobby has a right to do what they please.
I might choose a different path if I had to hunt for food, or if I had to drive my "A" every day. However, since my flintlocks and my Model A are hobbies, I'll stick with original ignition.
 
A couple of important things to remember is if you have one of those new fangled systems and have a problem on a tour probably nobody will know how to fix it or have extra parts in their car. I watched a very nice newly purchased '31 woodie go home on a trailer for those reasons. If you get one, understand how it works and carry extra parts.

Charlie Stephens
 
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