electronic ignition

Quigley1930

Quigley1930

Senior Member
A friend has an electronic ignition and the car wont start. I know nothing about this setup and was wondering how one checks it out to see if it working. The car started fine once but now is dead. I'm positive it is not a fuel problem.

I am going to build him a stock dist. to get him going. Any help of course will be appreciated.

Sewall
 
Quigley1930 said:
A friend has an electronic ignition and the car wont start. I know nothing about this setup and was wondering how one checks it out to see if it working. The car started fine once but now is dead. I'm positive it is not a fuel problem.

I am going to build him a stock dist. to get him going. Any help of course will be appreciated.

Sewall
Click to expand...


sounds like a good plan.
 
Quigley1930 said:
A friend has an electronic ignition and the car wont start. I know nothing about this setup and was wondering how one checks it out to see if it working. The car started fine once but now is dead. I'm positive it is not a fuel problem.

I am going to build him a stock dist. to get him going. Any help of course will be appreciated.

Sewall
Click to expand...

Does it crank or is it dead?
Did you check for spark from the coil wire?

If it cranks and you don't have spark your plan sounds solid
 
As with all things electronic they work great until the quit.

For those of us who cut our teeth on mechanical distributors, they offer a level of comfort based on familiarity. If you do a search for distributor problems on the FB, you will see Henry's version isn't completely trouble free either - Some problems are self-inflicted with "modifications" and others stem from a lack of understanding its peculiarities.

The PO installed an electronic distributor with centrifugal advance and it works like a champ – For how long is still a question.
[FONT=&quot]Good luck with your troubleshooting and if it happens to be a FS model, here is their contact number if you would like to give them a call: 580-762-8322 [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Keep us posted as I’m sure there are more than a few of us with electronic ignition who would benefit from your experience.[/FONT]
 
After you make sure its turning,make sure you're getting power to it, it could still be the switch or somewhere else other than the distributor itself. Good Luck.
 
FWIW: Every time I have worked on an electronic ignition (EI) retrofitted to an old car that was intermittent to start or just would not start, the problem was a poor ground to the module. It is now, the first thing I check.

The 6 volt electronic modules do not work well when the voltage drops even a small amount from a bad connection. Clean the wire connections to the module as your first step.

I have had a Nu-Rex EI in my touring car for over 65,000 miles and had only one problem when at about 10,000 miles of use. It was hard to start. Problem: BAD GROUND at/to the module.

I did replace the distributor bushings at about 55,000 miles but that was not a problem...just maintenance.

Good Day!
 
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Once you modify any car from that with which is came off the assembly line, it is like a hand-built one of a kind.
 
There are many differences in the wiring from electronic and going back to the stock distributor. It is not as simple as removing one and installing the other. You will need to reconnect the old style wiring and disconnect the added wiring that was installed with the electronic. If the switch was left on and the engine not running you probably have a fried module and that is a simple replacement, easier than points. If it is an FS set up call them for advice they can sell you the module and explain how to install it.
 
What type is it ? Nu- Rex or FS ? I have a Nu-Rex and my module failed had 6 volts in and on power out. I cleaned grounds and still nothing. I don't know about FS on how there's work. I called Nu- Rex and they walked me through on how to check the module but he could not send me a new one cuz they don't make them any more. Lucky thing I had a extra under my seat just in case this happened. So my next winter project Is too go back to stock. The way Henry did it.
 
The FS ignition is the Model A version of the original Per-Lux Ignitor that was developed in the late sixties for fork lifts and stationary engines. I've been using them for 40 years in boats and classic cars along with my A's with no issues. There were two issues early on; leaving the key on and poor grounding.

FYI these ignitions were installed in Ford Trucks at the factory for fleet service before electronic ignitions were OE. UPS in town delivery vans were retrofitted with Ignitors. FS ignition failures are almost always the result of improper installation and/or grounding.
 
I am in LOVE with my FS. It has been on my car for 25,000 miles and I had one module failure, but that was due to my mistake of messing with it without pulling the fuse first, causing it to short out. I have never had a roadside problem. If you install them correctly with a GOOD ground, & you don't leave the key on without it running, it will provide you years with trouble free service. My brother has two on his cars and he also has never had a problem. They make it great for when someone else wants to drive a car but doesn't understand the spark advance.

The original way works great as well. Just different strokes for different folks. The advantage of the power curve is what made me interested in the FS... it really does make a difference.
 
Wow! Thanks for all the replies. I did nothing today hopefully tomorrow afternoon will dive in. I did find a nice write up in Le s Andrews handbook 2. Will keep you posted.

Sewall
 
Dave in MN, post #9 is correct.
Especially if you have a 6v Pertronix unit, voltage drop during starting may not letting the Pertronix unit fire.

See the below from Pertronix:
POWER & GROUND TESTS
VOLTAGE TESTS (ENGINE DOES NOT START):
1. Connect Voltmeter red lead to positive (+) and black lead to negative (-) terminal of the battery.
2. Crank engine and note voltmeter reading. Make sure that the voltage does not drop under 5.2 volts while the engine is cranking.
Check your battery, cables, connections, and starter draw if the voltage drops under 5.2 volts.
3. Attach the voltmeter red lead to the Ignitor mounting plate and the voltmeter black lead to the negative terminal of the battery.
4. Crank engine and note voltmeter reading. The voltage should not drop under 5.2 volts.

I had a similar problem years ago with my car, an under performing 6v battery, and my Pertronix. In my case, a new battery kept enough electrons flowing to the Pertronix to bring things back to life. The Pertronix unit was not damaged.

Check your voltage drops and grounds.

Hope this helps.
 
I have the FS on one of my cars. I like it, but you must pay close attention to NEVER leaving the key on without the car running. This can cause a closed circuit to the "igniter" and it will fry quickly. It counts on the cycling charge to actually cool the igniter. I would suspect with an abrupt change like you saw, this would be what happened. It happened to me once, and FS actually replaced the igniter free (I bought a another one also, since I was impressed with them). I planned to go back to original and have fully rebuilt a dissy, but just procrastinating making the change over.
 
With anything electronic your first step is to measure voltage at the unit.

Proper grounding and connections would be the first thing on the list. Keep in mind this is in the system. A bad connection supplying voltage off away from the wires going direct to the module can cause problems too.

Second is voltage while cranking. The electronic ign is tight on voltage at 6V and too much of a drop while cranking will keep it from working.
 
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