Electronic fuel pump (EFP)

Rick Leavitt

Rick Leavitt

Member
I'm still having issues with getting fuel to the carb on my 41. I rebuilt the fuel pump and when I manually operate the arm with it in my hand, I can feel it working correctly. The push rod looks good and not worn. I have pressurized the line from the tank to the pump and there's no blockage. My question is should I go with a 6 volt electronic fuel pump, if so what type? Also, I like the car to still look original. Can I run the fuel through the fuel pump to the carb using a EFP? Thoughts and suggestions?
 
Rick, one last try for your rebuilt pump?
No restrictions ok, but all you need is a very tiny air leak to stall your pump from functioning properly. Cork pump gaskets are best, and can be softened a bit with light oil before installing. Sealing completely is critical.
 
ford38v8 said:
Rick, one last try for your rebuilt pump?
No restrictions ok, but all you need is a very tiny air leak to stall your pump from functioning properly. Cork pump gaskets are best, and can be softened a bit with light oil before installing. Sealing completely is critical.
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Thank you Alan. I will double check all my gaskets and lines.
 

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Merc Cruzer said:
Keep the current pump in place and put an electric on the frame as close to the gas tank as possible. The EFP will push the fuel through the mechanical pump.

Specks: https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/atx-e8902 or https://airtexasc.com/product-details?partkey=000759645

Price of pump: https://www.carid.com/airtex/electric-fuel-pump-mpn-e8902.html
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CAVEAT EMPTOR. The picture shown is not the pump you will get. That pump is discontinued. I have an extra one like the picture if you want it. Same price. Lawson
 
Not claiming to be an expert but here's my 2 cents: When I bought my car, the mechanical fuel pump was inoperable and I depended upon the discontinued 6v fuel pump installed by a previous owner. I didn't like being dependent on it. Not only that, my carburetor leaked EVERYWHERE because the pump over-pressured it.


First I put in a pressure regulator and pressure gauge and dialed it to 2.25 psi. That solved the leak problem, but I still didn't like being dependent on the electric pump. Bought a really old fuel pump on eBay and rebuilt it. Now I just use the electric pump as a primer, use only the mechanical pump during normal driving, and with the pressure regulator have not over-pressure issues.


Were you able to replace the check valves on your fuel pump when you rebuilt it? The mechanical pump that came with my car didn't have replaceable check valves, that's why I bought an old pump off of eBay. If you weren't able to replace the check valves and they're bad, that might explain things. A fuel pressure gauge would give you more data.
 
Your Mileage May Vary, ie, your experience may differ from that of others.

I have EFPs on both my 36 Phaeton and 38 woodie; in both cases, the EFP provides a helpful prime after longer periods of non-use.

This said, while I can use the EFP with no I’ll effect on the 38, the 36 can only be used briefly (“just a kiss”) if there is still any real quantity of fuel in the float bowl.
 
Thanks guys, I will double check to make sure there's no air leaks. I didn't get a cork gasket for the lid and it's dried out. So I will need to make one or find it online somewhere. Maybe that's the issue. I did purchase a AirTech EFP just in case. Thanks again.
 
Once I got the sediment bowl on the fuel pump on my '51 sealed up properly, I was able to remove the electric fuel pump from the car and not look back.

I totally agree with the superiority of a cork gasket over neoprene, although it seems counter-intuitive to me.
 
Rick Leavitt said:
Thanks guys, I will double check to make sure there's no air leaks. I didn't get a cork gasket for the lid and it's dried out. So I will need to make one or find it online somewhere. Maybe that's the issue. I did purchase a AirTech EFP just in case. Thanks again.
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If your car has a glass sediment bowl, that needs an airtight seal also…… Mark
 
One other thing : make sure the sediment bowl sealing area on the rim is perfectly flat and free of defects. I trued mine up with a piece of "wet-r-dry" paper on my surface plate just to be sure.
 
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