Electrolysis Rust Removal

32BBflathead

Junior Member
I have browsed the forum and was unable to locate an area where this has been discussed before. I hope it will help to provide useful information to those of you who may not have heard or simply didn't know much about it.

Most of you are familiar with how electrolysis can be used to plate a precious or more specialized metal onto one of either less value, stronger structure or suited more to a different task. The rust removal process uses a concept similar to this. I am not a chemist nor do I ever have any desire to become one so therefore my understanding of this topic is rather limited. From my research I have found that the process involves converting the black rust back into iron via the power provided to start the reaction from electricity. During this process the red rust is merely flaked off as it loses its hold. The anode will eventually become rusted and collect some of the rust. If there is anyone out there who has a greater understanding of this process their input is both welcome and greatly appreciated.

Materials:
1) Rusty Part
2) Sacrificial Anode
3) Container
4) Water
5) Baking/Washing Soda(Washing supposedly works faster but baking will work it is what I've been using)
6) Battery Charger or current control device(the higher the current the faster the process)

Steps:
1) The water is mixed with the soda(electrolyte) in a 1 gallon of water to 1 teaspoon of electrolyte solution.

2) The part and the anode are placed into the solution and they must never touch once the process has started.

3) Attach the negative side of the charger to the part and the positive to the anode. Electricity flows from the negative to the positive as the negative has an excess of electrons whilst the positive has a deficit.

4) Turn on the power. The solution should start to show movement and small bubbles should appear as well as rust particles and rust colored bubbles. The time it takes for this to appear will depend upon the current and the electrolyte solution.

5) Clean part of solution and do whatever you like with it.

Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for the actions of anyone who chooses to do anything based off the information presented here. This information is for entertainment purposes only.

Gas tank I've been working on.
 

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I have tried it, and it works OK for some things, but you have to remember it works on line of sight only, meaning placement of the anodes is critical. I used regular washing soda, and was fortunate enough to have a heavy duty DC variable power supply so I could try different voltages and currents. I tried several things of several months, and as a result, I buy a fresh 5 gallons of Evaporust every spring.
 
I actually am interested in this. I bought 10 gal of molasses this spring and put it in a 10 to 1 ratio in a kiddie pool out back. It works wonderfully and is biologically great; only issue is that it takes 2 weeks for the rust to completely disappear!
I have been using phosphoric prep and etch from Home Depot to get most rust off now; spray it on and wire wheel on the drill the area. Works like a charm. Lots of ways to get rust off.

The only issue I have with these is that no matter what, a residue is left. If you clean em, they rust. When I media blast em, they rust in a day. What I need is something that can preserve my product until paint; rust is even coming through wd40.
 
Something like Por-15 metalready leaves you a zincphosfate surface.
Great for painting and good for storage with a light oiling.
WD40 and similar isnt my first choice for storing, a light cote of regular oil does a better job.
 
Something like Por-15 metalready leaves you a zincphosfate surface.
Great for painting and good for storage with a light oiling.
WD40 and similar isnt my first choice for storing, a light cote of regular oil does a better job.

I also have had success with the POR-15 Prep and Ready as a pre-paint surface treatment. In my experience, it keeps bare metal rust-free with proper handling.
 
I tried it on some old skeleton keys and it worked pretty well. Although I don't know if I did it right. I didn't have any way to adjust the amps or voltage. The keys came out a dark grey, but no rust. I heard that electrolysis affects the metal in a way, like it can make it a little more brittle. Is that true. I try to not trust everything I read on the internet.
 
Using a metal sacrificial anode gives you a less good result then using a graphite one.
You get less crud in the solution with graphite.
And dont be tempted to use anything else then iron or graphite or you end up with not good to inhale gases.
 
I have had pretty good luck using OxiClean powder, a 10AMP battery charger, and ordinary 1/4 inch bolts to clean motorcycle gas tanks. Cost for the consumables is only a few bucks.
If I was doing something big like a fender I think I would try molasses.
 
I'm tempted to try this on a block as most of them are quite rusty inside. Anyone ever tried this?
 
I tried it on some old skeleton keys and it worked pretty well. Although I don't know if I did it right. I didn't have any way to adjust the amps or voltage. The keys came out a dark grey, but no rust. I heard that electrolysis affects the metal in a way, like it can make it a little more brittle. Is that true. I try to not trust everything I read on the internet.

Gunsmiths use this on antique firearms so I don't think making metal brittle is an issue. In regards to hydrogen embrittlement, one mil spec calls for treated parts to be left at room temp for three days. This is for phosphate treatment, which can cause embrittlement.
 
For blocks, find a Redi-strip franchise. Nothing you do at home can come close to their process. The liquid they immerse parts in their tanks has a cyanide product that you would be foolish to try to reproduce outside of an industrial setting. All rust GONE, only good metal is left, VERY impressive results worth the costs in my opinion. I have had a 34 Ford Sedan delivery body done as well as engine blocks.
 
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