Electrical Issue

Chevmn56 said:
Hey Slugs it is a cheap aftermarket switch....did the 31 come with a popout switch?????

The Dash and Dome light are not wired as they should have been originally so for know i have pulled the fuse that they had on the dome light and dash light circuit. Ill get hose wired correctly after i get the drain figured out...Thanks for the info on the switch.
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yes from the factory it did with the armored cable all the way to it. the cheap aftermarket is just an on off key switch with 2 brass spade terminals with screws. Those terminals internally love to get loose and make flaky contact.

The nurex "fake" popout is pretty good quality. It looks identical and mounts identically to a pop out but doesnt actually pop out. Has nice solid detentes for off an on and feels tight inside.
 
Also some of those replacement switched with the spades sticking out the back
like to short out against the gas tank.

Bob
 
Bob C said:
Also some of those replacement switched with the spades sticking out the back
like to short out against the gas tank.

Bob
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yup that too... same with the aftermarket junction boxes the brass screws can work themselves backwards and short against the firewall...
 
SeaSlugs said:
yup that too... same with the aftermarket junction boxes the brass screws can work themselves backwards and short against the firewall...[/QUOTE

That brings up another question....sorry....but i took the brass screws off last night and tried to get the cover off and it wouldn't budge, the plastic around the bolts looks brittle and cracked so i was scared that it would break, especially since it has the Ford logo and not the Furd logo.........are there any original terminal boxes out there to be had??? Is there a trick to getting the cover off??????
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Did you get the 2 wing nuts off the terminal box? I've never seen them stuck, but try Kroil to penetrate the threads. I have one nut I can't remove from my Studebaker ignition switch. The nut was loose, which caused high resistance, which caused heat and damage to the threads.

I worked on a 31 popout about 10 years ago that had so much graphite powder inside, that it caused a small current drain.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
Did you get the 2 wing nuts off the terminal box? I've never seen them stuck, but try Kroil to penetrate the threads. I have one nut I can't remove from my Studebaker ignition switch. The nut was loose, which caused high resistance, which caused heat and damage to the threads.

I worked on a 31 pop out about 10 years ago that had so much graphite powder inside, that it caused a small current drain.
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Hey Tom, well i got the drain on the electrical system fixed, it turned out that the cheap ignition switch was hitting on the back of the dash and had for some time. I have a original type popout switch coming in the mail so hopefully that will be better. On the box i thought the cover should just come of as well. I did have the brass nuts off (2) but the cover wouldn't budge. I even gently put a screw drive in the seam and gently tried to open it, no luck.

So i took a pic of the cover of the box to see if the box was original.....its not my eyes deceived me (getting old now) it says Furd. Im a little worried with this draw that it had may have gotten hot on the inside, i dont want to break what i have but i also want to see inside LOL. I checked the the electrical draw with the mechanics light before i reconnected the battery (one cable on the terminal) and there is no draw now. so next i attack the box i guess!
 
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Original boxes and lids are hard rubber and usually warp a little. I still use them, but sometimes the lid will bind slightly on the studs.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
Original boxes and lids are hard rubber and usually warp a little. I still use them, but sometimes the lid will bind slightly on the studs.
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Yep it was bound and the wire leading to the switch actually melted the lid a little...thanks to all for your help
 
ahh nice - I really wish they would stop selling those POS switches. Usually they get loose inside or a loose terminal and start creating misfires you could swear were carb or distributor related.

Glad you found it before the "bright orange flickering light" told you where it was :)
 
Chevmn56 said:
Yep it was bound and the wire leading to the switch actually melted the lid a little...thanks to all for your help
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You might check how they have the switch wired because the wire going to the ignition switch should be a ground wire coming from the distributor and then going to the coil.

Bob
 

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SeaSlugs said:
ahh nice - I really wish they would stop selling those POS switches. Usually they get loose inside or a loose terminal and start creating misfires you could swear were carb or distributor related.

Glad you found it before the "bright orange flickering light" told you where it was :)
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LMAO love the comment on the "bright orange flickering light"..... yeah im pretty excited to get rid of the POS new REX switch comes tomorrow..Thanks for the help
 
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