Electrical guru's (Not Model A)...

Steve Plucker

Steve Plucker

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The first problem I had was that one of the 12 volt batteries had a dead cell. Got that fixed.

Now another problem for My Model A Electrical guru friends...

6 volt system.

Positive ground.

New Regulator is like this: F B L terminals on top with a GEN terminal on the bottom.

New rebuilt Generator.

All wires are hooked up correctly (I think).

Generator was "polorized" (B on regulator to Armature on generator).

Now the problem...

Amp guage regersters a negitive shows not charging.

Could be a defective rebuilt generator or regulator...what else?

Was told if I disconnected the battery wire from the negitive terminal on battery, then by touching it, if there was a spark, then a short, if not, then no short...there was no spark thus no short (hopefully).

This is on a 1958 430 JD wheel tractor.

Ideas????

Thanks. Pluck
 
This is from a 1958 Motors Manual.
Auto-Lite & Delco---Ground "F" terminal while touching a "hot" jumper wire
to the 'A" terminal.

Ford----Touch a "hot" jumper wire to the "F" terminal.

Bob
 
to find out quickly which one is bad (gen or reg) disconnect the neg cable from batt with engine running, if engine dies its the gen is not charging, if the engine keeps running its the regulator thats bad
 
Bob C said:
This is from a 1958 Motors Manual.
Auto-Lite & Delco---Ground "F" terminal while touching a "hot" jumper wire
to the 'A" terminal.

Ford----Touch a "hot" jumper wire to the "F" terminal.

Bob
Click to expand...

Bob,

Which is the "A" terminal?

Also, if polorized wrong...would that cause the "Negitive" charge?

Also, if polorized wrong...can one repolorize without harm?

Maybe it is the "polorizing" that we did wrong?

Thanks.

Pluck
 
Looked at the manual again and the "A" is the armature. Says to polarize the generator
before connecting it to the regulator.

Bob
 
I wasn't going to get involved without seeing a schematic, but you mention the terminals F, B, L and GEN. I'm pretty sure the "L" is for LIGHTS, as many older tractors (and lawn tractors) had a lights terminal that kicked up the generator output when the lights were turned on. Does the "regulator" have 3 coils inside, or just 2? Most of the tractors that had a lights terminal just had two coils and didn't have a true voltage regulator coil, like the 3 coil units which had one coil for a cutout, one coil for amps overload, and one coil for voltage regulation. Sometimes two functions were combined into one coil, so it's best to study the schematic, or hopefully the owners manual might tell something about it.

As far as polarizing, it would depend on how the field in connected, and where it's grounded. Any chance you could post a picture of the schematic? I don't have any tractor manuals that would show it.

F is for FIELD and should have a wire leading to the generator field terminal.

B is for battery and should have a wire leading to the battery post not grounded.

If there is an "ARM", that should be the same as "GEN" and lead to the generator output terminal.
 
This may help.

Bob
 

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That should help Pluck make sure the wires are all connected to the correct terminals, but since I can't see the inside of the generator or regulator I'm still not sure how they want it polarized.
 
Bob C said:
Tom, according to the parts book it is a Delco system if that helps.

Bob
Click to expand...

Yes, most Delco systems could be polarized by jumping a short wire from the battery terminal to the generator terminal (B to GEN, or BAT to GEN) on the regulator.

It might be a regular voltage regulator and the L terminal is just a connection point for the lights wire instead of slipping it under the battery terminal on the regulator. Just can't tell without an inside view (schematic) of the regulator.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
Yes, most Delco systems could be polarized by jumping a short wire from the battery terminal to the generator terminal (B to GEN, or BAT to GEN) on the regulator.

It might be a regular voltage regulator and the L terminal is just a connection point for the lights wire instead of slipping it under the battery terminal on the regulator. Just can't tell without an inside view (schematic) of the regulator.
Click to expand...

Tom,

It is a two coil regulator.

Pluck
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
I wasn't going to get involved without seeing a schematic, but you mention the terminals F, B, L and GEN. I'm pretty sure the "L" is for LIGHTS, Correct as many older tractors (and lawn tractors) had a lights terminal that kicked up the generator output when the lights were turned on. Does the "regulator" have 3 coils inside, or just 2? 2 Most of the tractors that had a lights terminal just had two coils and didn't have a true voltage regulator coil, like the 3 coil units which had one coil for a cutout, one coil for amps overload, and one coil for voltage regulation. Sometimes two functions were combined into one coil, so it's best to study the schematic, or hopefully the owners manual might tell something about it.

As far as polarizing, it would depend on how the field in connected, and where it's grounded Grounded to the generator. Any chance you could post a picture of the schematic? I don't have any tractor manuals that would show it.

F is for FIELD and should have a wire leading to the generator field terminal.

Correct...

B is for battery and should have a wire leading to the battery post not grounded.

Correct...

If there is an "ARM", that should be the same as "GEN" and lead to the generator output terminal.
Click to expand...

Correct...
 
It sounds like you polarized it correctly. The last voltage regulator I bought from NAPA was in the 70's and it wouldn't work. NAPA wouldn't take it back because they said it had been installed. DUH, how would I know it was bad if I didn't try it. I took the cover off and found the cutout gap was about 1/4" instead of about .020". I adjusted it and it was fine.
 
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