Electrical drain, battery won't maintain charge?

He probably has more than one drawing a little current. If I remember, he doesn't get a light with them all in, only a little spark. With us not knowing the amp draw or voltage between the post and lifted cable, I'm with the bad battery opinion.
 
flatheadmurre said:
Remove all fuses.
Lift the battery pole and measure between battery and cable for current.
You get a reading there you have to start investigating generator/regulator or something else in primary circuit.
If you got no current reading there install battery pole again and measure over each fuseholder until you find where current is drawn.
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Will do, but not sure what "battery pole" is.
 
36tudordeluxe said:
Will do, but not sure what "battery pole" is.
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Sorry for confusion...just take the cable off the battery and measure between cable and battery with all fuses out first.
If you get a reading there we take it ffrom there.
If not measure over each fuse holder until you get a reading somewhere.
 
36tudordeluxe said:
Will do, but not sure what "battery pole" is.
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Gotta remember.......a few of our F'Barn friends are in far-away places, and although "WE" talk funny sometimes over here, some of those guys use "proper terms" at other times that we haven't learn't yet. DD
 
36tudor>>>Electrical drain, battery won't maintain charge? >>>

OK. Here are 2 easy questions related to the battery itself.

(1) With the battery cables connected, how long does it take for the battery to drain so it won't turn over?

(2) With the battery cables disconnected, how long does it take before it won't turn over?

Jack E/NJ
 
So here's where I'm at, never could get the test light or multi meter to show a drain on any of the circuits, battery use to charge to 12.7V, can only get 12.4V now. After driving the car and tripping the main circuit breaker off, the battery maintains enough of a charge to re-start the car the next day. Am guessing I have a problem with the battery. This method of preserving the battery has caused me to wire my clock directly to the battery to maintain correct time, will use inline fuse now.
Jack E/NJ has suggested an interesting test that I have yet to try.
 
I don't see where you've ever fully tested the battery with the equipment at an auto parts store to see if it's defective. You may be chasing something other than that simple problem that could be diagnosed in a few minutes at the store.
 
Have found the best way (for me) to check flow/drain in wires is an induction ammeter such as this. Starting with the battery cables and each individual circuit you can check the drain down in the system down to the miliamp.
But of course if the battery is bad it's just a waste of time.
 
Old Henry said:
I don't see where you've ever fully tested the battery with the equipment at an auto parts store to see if it's defective. You may be chasing something other than that simple problem that could be diagnosed in a few minutes at the store.
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Now that it's a little warmer and feeling somewhat limber I will drag the battery out from behind the backseat and get it tested.
 
36tudordeluxe said:
Now that it's a little warmer and feeling somewhat limber I will drag the battery out from behind the backseat and get it tested.
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There may be no need to drag it out. If you can drive the car to the store the guys will bring the gadget out and hook it up to test it right where it is. I do it all the time.
 
Took the car over to AUTOZONE and had the battery tested, the opinion was the battery was good, showing 84%. Never could find a drain, will flip master breaker to the off position at the end of the day and preserve the battery for the next day.
 
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