Electric water pumps

If anyone really is interested in high volume water pumps I thought you might also like to know that there is an alternative to Skips. C&G also sells the "turbine" style high volume pumps for $75.00 each. These aren't your pumps that you send to them to rebuild (for $200.00 per pair that Skip charges) and there is no core charge. You get to keep your old ones. They have sealed permanantly lubricated bearings (do not use engine oil). Just order and get them in two days (where I live). Not an ad. Just information (which I may start repeating in response to G.M.'s ad every time he does it).

(Available here: https://secure435.hostgator.com/~dlvry40/ufolder/ShowProducts.php?c=1&s=14&g=120&t=810&tn=)
 
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Old Henry,
Do you know where those pumps you are pushing are made? I hope you are not suggesting foreign parts when proven USA parts are available. And you say "you can keep your old pumps". Great. Also "permanently lubricated bearings". Can you explain what that means? 6 years? Forever?
John
 
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oldford2 said:
Old Henry,
Do you know where those pumps you are pushing are made? I hope you are not suggesting foreign parts when proven USA parts are available. And you say "you can keep your old pumps". Great. Also "permanently lubricated bearings". Can you explain what that means? 6 years? Forever?
John
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All I can tell you is that I ordered two new water pumps from C&G and was expecting them to be like my old ones. When I got them the first thing that I noticed was that the impellers were turbine style as is pictured on Skip's ads. Then I noticed it didn't have the holes that the old one had to line up with the oil passages from the engine block to lubricate them. So, I called C&G and was told that they were an improved style with the turbine impeller and permanantly lubricated ball bearings that never need lubrication. I didn't ask where they were made. It doesn't matter to me where they were made as much as it does to some people. Other than my flathead all of my other cars are Toyota Camrys that all have over 250,000 miles on them without any major mechanical repairs and still running strong. So, I'm not as anti-foreign as some are. That's all I know. Anyone that wants to know more can call them and interrogte them further at 760-740-2400. I'm not really pushing the pumps although they do seem to have the advantages I've mentioned. Just disclosing an alternative to you know what. :cool:
 
Who cares where they are made!
The majority of our fuel comes from over seas!
Are we going to stop driving our cars?
 
I got a pair of pumps for an 8BA from Dennis Carpenter and they looked as OldHenry described from C&G. I asked about the country of origin and was told they cast them. Could not see any difference from their's and Ford's except part no. on Ford pumps. Oh, they were $125/ pair, run cool and don't leak! What more could ask for?
 
estout81 said:
I got a pair of pumps for an 8BA from Dennis Carpenter and they looked as OldHenry described from C&G.
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I wouldn't be surprised if C&G was reselling Carpenter's high volume pumps like they resell a lot of manufacturers' stuff - Carpenter, Drake, Vintique, etc.
 
rotorwrench said:
Electric accessories like fans, water pumps, & fuel pumps are fine and good as long as your electrical system can carry the load and work with existing voltage requirements. The old 6-volt cars are stuck with mostly mechanical equipment. The fuel pumps are likely the only items made for 6-volt systems.
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Good point about the voltage. The availability of a 6V water pump and cooling fan is likely to be slim and none. More important is the amperage demand of these units. A 12V electric water pump will pull between 12-15 amps and the fan another 15-18 amps so that the alternator will have to be sized accordingly. Modern alternators are so efficient that it matters little whether or not its a 100 amp or 140 amp unit in terms of taking HP from the engine.

The combination of electric water pump and fan eliminates the HP robbing drag a belt driven water pump and fan place on the engine. Another plus is in your off road application the radiator, cooling fan, and pump could also be mounted in a non conventional location away from the dust and debris. There are electric fans on the market that will move 3300 CFM and that's every minute even when the vehicle isn't moving.

The cooling setup (electric water pump and fan) on the Hemi has been road tested in hot weather (100*+) in bumper to bumper traffic in SoCal and performed fine. It might be the best solution for your application. Just my 2 cents worth.
 
I ran two electric water pumps on my flathead powered bellytank this year at Bonneville. The pumps drew just under 8 amps each and worked well. Each pump would have had enough flow to supply the entire engine but I used 2 pumps so there would be equal flow on each side of the engine and also so I could use a radiator for each side of the engine for packaging in the amount of space I had available.
 
Henry the imported pumps you talk about DO NOT have an impeller any where near the shape or design of Skip turbine impeller and move about 60% of the coolant Skips pumps deliver 110 gallons in 5 minutes. They coined the name turbine as a sales tool look close and you will see they are not much differance then the late Ford impellers. These pumps come into Skip all the time to get modified. I saw some that had random cast material in the water passage delivering about 20 gallons in five minutes. He had to drill a hole in the shell and reach in with a long die grinder and remove the material and weld the hole. This is the quality you get when you go cheap. Skip has about as much repair business as he can do and when he gets all the stock pumps done he will have plenty of these imports to fix. Every one of Skips pumps are test run for at least 5 minutes and meet the 110 gallon flow test so you know what you are getting. Plus he has never charged anyone to repair their pumps or coil in the 16 years he has been doing them. G.M.
 
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if this is not an advertizement, then i dont know how to describe it.

old henry, can you post a picture of the impellers?
 
Just the facts as usual. A picture would be great that will give me a chance to post pictures of Skips real turbine impeller to show the differance. No adds just informing new veiwers how to make their old Ford dependable like the thousands of others that use Skips products. G.M.
 
Sorry. I didn't take a picture of the impellers before installing them and the vendors only show the pulley side of the pump. This is the picture from Skip's ad. My best recollection is my impellers look like that. Since G.M. apparently has access to a lot of my kind of pumps he could post a picture of both to show the difference. How 'bout it G.M.?

WaterPump-Skips.jpg
 
Back in the early 60s I remember a 32 doors galore in Johnson City TN that had a 12v generator mounted to the rear end housing and ran off a belt around the left rear brake drum. It worked. Last Sat I saw some tricked out Mustangs with elec water pumps and got to thinking, a 12 alt running off the rear end with elec water pumps thermostat controlled and the same with a elec fan would same a lot of hp. All this on a light period rod with hc heads and better carburation and you might just have your cake and be able to eat it to!
 
doing a little reasearch, looking at the drake online catalouge on page 134 it shows pictures of the 37-48 pump and the picture of the impeller and the attached narative says that drake has used an impeller of the type that was used in the 49-53 pumps, a curved 8 blade turbine style, similar but not the same as the flatter 6 blade (it looks like 6 blades) to what skips uses. both have curves blades and obviously would pump more water. the drakes would obviously be better than stock pump flat, straight 6 blade impellers and the sealed bearings and ceramic seals would be a positive feature on the drake pumps. on page 135 of teh drake catalouge, you can see the later 49-53 pumps with a side view showing the curved blade impeller on the pumps.

g.m. will undoubtedly have a negative disertation about this issue, but i tend to go along with old henry and IMHO, would say that the c&c / drakes made pumps would be a viable option to those wanting new casting pumps with sealed heavy duty bearings and ceramic seals and not wishing to have their old pumps rebuilt with the old tecnology bronze bushings instead of heavy duty sealed bearings (like the 37-48 dual pulley heavy duty big truck pumps that came from ford as origonal equiptment) that are on all modern automotive water pumps since 1949

its all about what the individual car owner wishes to do with his own car.

don
 
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The original poster asked if anyone had info on using electric water pumps, not anyone's opinion on electric water pumps. Info, not opinions.
 
rooboy said:
Jeez......some certainly got off the "desert track" on this one...LOL.!!
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Yeah. I'm afraid we got derailed right from the start with the first non-responsive irrelevant reply that too many of us then also responded to. Not good for sure. I contributed my share and am sorry.:(
 
Just a question rooboy. Have you had trouble overheating or are you anticipating it? Might try a few different things that work well without the cash outlay of electric pumps. I've had overheating problems in a couple of non-flathead rigs and found air flow through the radiator can have as much effect as moving more water. Just a thought.
 
Thanks for your interest 4t8v8 ....we are looking at all angles on this project.... by getting as much info.from other people as possible, and trying to keep "ahead of the game" as much as possible, so as to avoid throwing money at things that may, or maynot work.
A lot of sand dune climbing and stop / starting comes into the equation as well...so the choice of radiator as well as many other related items will be important......
For those that got a little "side tracked" i'm sure you ment well. Thanks.........
 
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