electric start

[samsonized]

i just purchased a 14 t touring and i would like to convert it to electric start due to my bad back. i would like to retain the original motor and transmission. a friend of mine indicated that i could just change the hogs head and put on a flywheel and still retain all of the other stock components is this true? if it is does anybody have the parts to make the changeover mike

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Those parts are readily available, BUT, to change the flywheel theres a bunch of critical measurements to consider on the triple gear pins, magneto, and crank end play etc. That really should become a full overhaul while its apart. ws

 

[samsonized]

thanks so if i am understanding you correctly you cannot just put a flyweel with a ring gear on and use the starter

 

[tmodelman]

The whole engine should be considered as posted.

That change to an electric starter includes, replacing the early alum cover with a cast iron starter hog's head (trans cover), later low pedal with offset to clear the Bendix cover, the starter and Bendix, a later flywheel with ring gear mounting groove, and ring gear, and the location and provision for a high amp 6v storage battery and related wiring, and if desired, some sort of alternator or generator to recharge the battery.

Replacing with a later ring gear flywheel means the transmission and magneto is disassembled, reinstall and/or re-charge the magnets, then fit the triple gears to the new flywheel posts, that may or may not mean to replace gears or pinion posts in the flywheel for proper transmission operation. replacing the coil ring may be good too at that time, and measure other points like rear main bearing to be sure all thrust tolerances are OK.

It's not all that difficult, just a lot of things need to be considered and adapted, and planned for.

Picture of non-starter trans, with plain flywheel, the other is a later ring gear flywheel, and difference in early and starter type low pedal connection.

 

[Jack Innes]

If you want the conversion to be less obvious you can paint the "Hog's head" aluminum color (Dupli-Color DE1615 matches old time aluminum engine color well) & change the pedal pads with those available from the vendors. Snyder's lists them at $14.50 each. You cut the old ones off & weld these on. I have them on a 14 that now has a starter & they look correct.

A 6 or 8 volt battery will last a very long time just starting the car. I do not run a generator & have had no trouble. Even with moderately heavy use, a trickle charger run at night usually keeps a good battery up.

 

[samsonized]

does anyone out there have all it takes to switch one over as a kit

 

[Farmallcub49]

Not, that I know of, but if you are near Minnesota, we could do it for you at our shop. Feel free to call if you want, my number is below.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

You learn something new every day dontcha? Being solely a 26-27 guy, I never realized there was a difference in the pre-electric pedal linkage. Im a little confused on TMMs pics tho... Is the oily pedal the wrong one on an electric hogshead? Mine matches the rusty one. Please explain! Also, does that offset change the position of the high speed cam on the shaft due to the linkage alignment? ws

 

[yachtsmanbill]

So tell me Dan... what can I use for a filler pipe extension at 2-1/8 X 14? Is this going to be a "make it all" project? Pipe isnt even close, barrel bungs same thing etc etc. I really dont want to start with a cast chinese POS, and the aluminum one Ive got looks terrible! ws

 

[tmodelman]

That rusty low pedal is the proper one for the Bendix cover, you need that offset.

There are many ways of gas tanks for speedsters, depends on the install. If just making an extension, thin wall tubing of the dia. needed to thread into the 2/18" x 14 thrd Ford T gas tank fitting, or maybe just solder in place, and thread the other end, external or internal threads depending on the gas cap you want to use.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

TMM... that pedal pic threw me. The oily one being still installed in the hogshead. Hmm... was that trial and error on your part?
My tank is totally exposed. I may take a 2" brass nipple and thread it on the South Bend I have and screw that into the tank with some sealer, then make a custom pipe thread cap. Hate to do a "hot" job as the tank is painted and installed. ws

 

[gz]

Instead of disturbing a good running 1914 engine and transmission assembly, why don't you look for a complete and running 1919-1927 engine and transmission assembly and install the whole unit. This would be a lot easier than taking the engine and transmission apart and modifying it. By doing this, if the next owner wants to return the car to original, all he has to do is swap assemblies. Later Model T engine and transmission assemblies are pretty common and affordable.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Thats the best idea yet! I feel brainwashed after a few minutes across the hall... Them guys actually discuss rivet head diameters and cotter pin head shapes among other such nonsensical stuff. My sole object is to have a Model T to have fun with and provide people on the streets here with ear to ear grins. And it works!
Other than points judging on show cars, physically Id put the pollinator up against any of them for reliability and durability... I think a good competion would be to run them without ever adding oil to see when the first one starts rods-a-knockin'. My fresh motor took 2 pints of oil over the whole summer.
Leave that '14 motor intact, stuff another electric in there and have some fun. Youll get 25 SMILES PER GALLON! The one pictured is for sale around $150 or so...Its a 1917 non elec but gives you an idea of the value...Same guy has all the 1920 parts for another $100 ws