Electric fuel shut-off valves, any good??

M

MurphyJ

Senior Member
Like a lot of other "a" owners, i'm tired of my gas shut off valve not shutting off completely and leaving a drip situation that concerns me greatly from a fire event. And i have read quite a number of threads on the forum as to what one can do to make the original style shut off valves more positive.
However right now i am very seriously considering converting over to an electric shut off valve that hopefully will be most reliable. Am i on the right track or are the electric valves not worth the cost and time to install?
Your comments are most welcome and appreciated. Thank you.
 
The abrasive fines in the gasoline (rust) that score the original valve tapers, creating leaks, will also eventually get embedded into the pin and seats of the solenoid valves. I have them on both my indented firewall A's and they work well, but after a few years in order to keep them long-term drip tight, both required disassembly to mechanically clean the solenoid armature pins and polish the seats. My tanks aren't dirty, either. By A standards, they're squeaky clean.

Disassembly is simple if you make a custom spanner to unscrew the armature tower after removing the coil.

I have also found they are most reliable in a vertical orientation, with gravity directing the solenoid armature pin straight down. Horizontal mounting requires the return spring to exert sufficient force to seat the pin. Since there is a lot of clearance in the solenoid armature/pin tower this means the pin and seat will not meet directly on their centers, the pin will need to be driven uphill from its initial contact point. This will eventually create uneven seat wear.

If you have a late '31 they are a godsend. If you have the usual under-tank valve you may be better with a second inline mechanical fuel valve.

FWIW, I always switch the electric valves off with the engine running, run up the engine a bit, and run the carbs dry.

Here's one of mine:
solenoidfuelvalve.jpg
 
JOES31 said:
Why not just fix the leak?
Click to expand...

That, of course, is your first line of defense! There are problems, however, with the original valve design. It operates like a tapered brass gas valve, with metal to metal sliding contact but no **** grease to seal imperfections. Since fuel will always present some abrasive fines unless you filter it on a micron level before the valve there will soon be scratches in the taper creating a drip.

Other valve designs present a conformable elastomer or increase metal to metal compression on seat surfaces as the valve is closed. They are more long-term tolerant of abrasive fines in the liquid if you want a drip-tight, park it for a week without a drop seal.

It comes down to what you personally want. I love the look of an original valve under the tank, but if you have to drain the tank, disassemble it, and re-grind the taper every year or so to maintain a drip tight valve that may not be your cup of tea. If you don't care so much about the fine-point look a more compliant newer valve can replace it.
 
Hi Murphy, (An actual experience)

Some Model A vendors' catalogs offer different advice on their different parts.

If one checks Snyder's written ad on their A-9189-A shut off valve, they very kindly recommend using their A-9193 T screen for keeping sand & hard iron rust from marring the soft brass tapered connection in the shut off valve.

Whether your tank is immaculate or not, there is always a possibility of adding new "dirty & sandy" gas from leaking submerged gas storage tanks that can cause shut-off valve leakage.

Bratton's shut-off valve instructions recommends wrapping the bottom male part of the screen with Teflon "if" it fits loosely in the shut-off valve.

"If" you get a "new" valve with a "new" recommended screen that fits "tightly" in the top of your valve, your driver's side seat covers might wear out before your new shut-off valve begins to leak.

Just one experience to share.
 
With my leaky Stromberg 97, I very much wanted a solid fuel shut-off valve. A few on this forum suggested the electric shut-off valve. I asked Bert's Modle A Parts House why they stopped carring them, and was told the they had 'too many returns' by customers who were dis-satisfied with the electric fuel shut-off valve. I did not go deeper into asking what the complaints were. I stuck with my original (rebuilt it) and added another mechanical shut-off valve. I have been very happy with these two mechanical valves.
 
I had one on my pickup and ended up removing it as the version I had did not flow flow at a proper rate through it. When I took it apart the internal passage for fuel to flow through the valve was tiny, maybe 1/8 inch or less. However, mine looked different than the one pictured above so maybe there as been a design change. Either way I put a standard line back on it and my truck ran better. The electric shut off now live in the bottom of my tool boxes and will be there unless something miraculously changes. Just my experience...
 
I've had one for probably the last 3-4 years with only one problem. It was sticking and wouldn't fully open. Dis-assembled it and cleaned it good. So far it's OK.
It's a late 31 with indent.

Paul in CT
 
Thanks all for your prompt responses and suggestions to my question.
This forum is the best in helping a guy out!
Murphy J.
 
Use and LOVE it.....
 

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Some older john Deere tractors had a vacuum operated fuel valve. When the tractor started, the vacuum would lift the valve open. If the carb happened to be dry you could manually open the valve by pushing a button (if I remember correctly). This was a pretty slick setup.
 
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