Electric fuel pump
- Thread starter josh1331
- Start date
Drbrown
Well-known member
I agree with the recommendations you note. I have my '47 set up that way, with the electric pump at the tank. It definitely helps in starting my engine. I kept my stock mechanical pump for normal use. If one fails the other may get you home. And I still carry a spare mechanical pump in my trunk during long trips.
Others here may offer advice re sizes, manufacturers and vendors. I've seen it recommended that electric feeds to electric pumps be equipped with emergency shut-down device which can be manually or automatically activated in case of a car crash (Ron Francis is one vendor of such).
Others here may offer advice re sizes, manufacturers and vendors. I've seen it recommended that electric feeds to electric pumps be equipped with emergency shut-down device which can be manually or automatically activated in case of a car crash (Ron Francis is one vendor of such).
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Installed inexpensive electronic pumps from Auto Zone on both my vehicles close to the tank and removed the mechanical. Used a common oil pressure switch for safety reasons so if the engine dies so does the pump. Put a momentary contact switch in the system so if it sits too long I can fill the carb before I start it. Been on both vehicles for over 25 years and not one problem.
Old Henry
Well-known member
Airtex electric pumps are inexpensive, reliable, and allow the mechanical pump to pull through them when they're off.
Airtex E8902 for 6 volt. E8016S for 12 volt. Here's my installation back by the gas tank. Didn't even have to drill a hole to mount. Used a hole already in the frame to mount.
I have found a need to run the pump more than for just an instant when I have vapor lock. In such case, even this low pressure pump that tops out at 4 psi is too much for the carburetor float valve and overwhelms it and floods the engine. So, I added a Holley pressure regulator in the frame just after the electric pump.
I put a toggle switch under the dash.
And a small LED indicator light to remind me that it's on. (Green LED to right of steering column to remind me that kill circuit relay is energized to turn off when ignition is turned off.)
I also have an inertia kill switch to shut off the car (including the electric fuel pump) in case of a crash.
Airtex E8902 for 6 volt. E8016S for 12 volt. Here's my installation back by the gas tank. Didn't even have to drill a hole to mount. Used a hole already in the frame to mount.
I have found a need to run the pump more than for just an instant when I have vapor lock. In such case, even this low pressure pump that tops out at 4 psi is too much for the carburetor float valve and overwhelms it and floods the engine. So, I added a Holley pressure regulator in the frame just after the electric pump.
I put a toggle switch under the dash.
And a small LED indicator light to remind me that it's on. (Green LED to right of steering column to remind me that kill circuit relay is energized to turn off when ignition is turned off.)
I also have an inertia kill switch to shut off the car (including the electric fuel pump) in case of a crash.
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Old Henry
Well-known member
Because electric pumps also fail. I've had an Airtex fail. I'd'a been stuck if I'd removed my mechanical pump.
One caution. If you install an electric pump and have it pump through the mechanical it is possile to pump fuel into the sump if the mechanical pump diaphram rupures. Either run the electric on a momentary switch, eliminate the mechanical or plumb the electric so it doesn't flow through the mechanical.
Les Bliss
Les Bliss
Tom Morookian
Well-known member
Here's a link to some old forum comments on Airtex pumps. IMHO they are OK as backups or startup pumps but not reliable for constant use.
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=122842&highlight=airtex
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=122842&highlight=airtex
Admiral
Well-known member
This is precisely what I did. I've got my inline electric fuel pump (Airtex 8016S) hooked up to a momentary switch. It's just there for priming or emergency situations.
Ken/Alabama
Well-known member
Got mine here www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com
qmdv
Well-known member
I want to thank all you guys for the feedback. It gives me confidence to know I can do the job with various options as mentioned, with oil switch or without or regulator of some type. Kill switch really necessary. I assume it comes with wiring instructions. It might be best to wirie it to ignition switch so if you forget when doing work on car it kills the power. Any thoughts on that? John
Old Henry
Well-known member
Regarding relying on an oil pressure cut off switch: Suppose you are cruising along the lonely two lane using the throttle knob for cruise control (as I do all the time) when a front tire blows, you lose control, the car rolls multiple times knocking you unconscious, and lands on its wheels out in the wilderness. The engine would still be running full speed in gear with the throttle pulled out including plenty of oil pressure to keep it going.
See the problem with oil pressure cut offs? Better to use an inertia kill switch that cuts off all electrical to the engine and kills it and everything running through the ignition switch (including the electric fuel pump) in that event or many other possibilities. Here's how I wired mine to include a manual kill switch if I need to make an emergency stop with the throttle knob pulled out:
And the manual kill switch above my rear view mirror more quickly accessed than the throttle knob.
The LED indicating that the kill switch is on so that I don't leave it on when I turn the ignition switch off.
And the relay that the inertia and manual kill switches operate:
See the problem with oil pressure cut offs? Better to use an inertia kill switch that cuts off all electrical to the engine and kills it and everything running through the ignition switch (including the electric fuel pump) in that event or many other possibilities. Here's how I wired mine to include a manual kill switch if I need to make an emergency stop with the throttle knob pulled out:
And the manual kill switch above my rear view mirror more quickly accessed than the throttle knob.
The LED indicating that the kill switch is on so that I don't leave it on when I turn the ignition switch off.
And the relay that the inertia and manual kill switches operate:
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Graeme / New Zealand
Well-known member
I use a locally NZ made unit. It is set up much like Old Henry but I don't use a regulator. It is on a spring loaded momentary toggle switch under the dash that cant be seen. You have to hold the switch to prime it, that way it can't be left on accidentally. It is only used for priming the system of fuel so you don't have to crank and crank the starter after it has been sitting for a while.
GB
GB
Old Henry
Well-known member
P.S. Just in case anyone wonders what all of the switches under my dash are, far left is gauge dimmer switch (stock), next turn signal switch including internal resistors to add ohms to the circuit and buzzers to remind me to turn them off, electric pump switch, interior light switch, fog light switch, then to the right out of the picture are the red LED indicating the electric fuel pump is on and a yellow LED indicator light reminding me that the fog lights are on. To the right of the steering column is another green LED indicator light telling me the manual kill switch is on energizing the relay which has to be turned off manually when key is turned off. (I actually use the kill switch to turn the car on and off and just leave the key in turned on. Have fooled many a mechanic trying to start it up.)