Electric fuel pump
- Thread starter ntqlvr
- Start date
Bob Shewman makes new flex hoses that don't have problems with the new fuels. He makes 2 types and one has a check valve built into the hose fitting at the pump to keep the fuel from running back to the tank for better starting. I have 6 or 7 old Fords I drive and never had an electric pump on any of them and they start right up every time on 6 volts. Contact gadgiteer@aol.com or call Bob at 1-610-933-6637. G.M.
John Voelkel
Member
I have an electric pump on my 41. It is connected through the ignition switch so
is only operable when I am running the car. I mounted it under the hood but plan
on moving it to near the gas tank. I do not use the mechnical pump and operate
with the electric only. I put the electric on in 2003 and have had no problems
to date.
is only operable when I am running the car. I mounted it under the hood but plan
on moving it to near the gas tank. I do not use the mechnical pump and operate
with the electric only. I put the electric on in 2003 and have had no problems
to date.
Jack 34pu
Senior Member
Where is the fuel going would be my question. It has three places to go - two are dangerous.
1. Do you see fuel on the intake after a long run and then let set for an hour? (gaskets or warped mating surfaces)
2. Is fuel dripping down inside of the carb after a run? (look at "J" tubes with a mirror and flashlight)(possibly dirt or sticking ball) (just had that problem myself)
3. Fuel being drained back into tank thru mechanical fuel pump with bad valve. (I question this one as there should be enough gas in the carb bowel for the accelerator pump to at least give a squirt and start the engine)
My vote would be #2. (This can be very bad for rings)
Just my observations but there are at least three experts on the forum that work on carbs and have the experience to do it right.
Final note: I was at Hershey a few years ago and witnessed a near tragedy. A 53 Merc was for sale and a crowd gathered as the owner tried to start it for a potential buyer. After many tries and much discussion, the hood was finally lifted. I noticed a large puddle forming around our feet as we looked at the motor. Fuel was being pumped out of the breather onto the ground. In his frustration, the owner forgot to turn off the electric pump and we were about to be barbequed. That pump had been running since the first attempt to start. (I know there is an oil pressure switch that can be used in series with the pump circuit but I just stay away from the electrics). Just my opinion and not worth much at that.
1. Do you see fuel on the intake after a long run and then let set for an hour? (gaskets or warped mating surfaces)
2. Is fuel dripping down inside of the carb after a run? (look at "J" tubes with a mirror and flashlight)(possibly dirt or sticking ball) (just had that problem myself)
3. Fuel being drained back into tank thru mechanical fuel pump with bad valve. (I question this one as there should be enough gas in the carb bowel for the accelerator pump to at least give a squirt and start the engine)
My vote would be #2. (This can be very bad for rings)
Just my observations but there are at least three experts on the forum that work on carbs and have the experience to do it right.
Final note: I was at Hershey a few years ago and witnessed a near tragedy. A 53 Merc was for sale and a crowd gathered as the owner tried to start it for a potential buyer. After many tries and much discussion, the hood was finally lifted. I noticed a large puddle forming around our feet as we looked at the motor. Fuel was being pumped out of the breather onto the ground. In his frustration, the owner forgot to turn off the electric pump and we were about to be barbequed. That pump had been running since the first attempt to start. (I know there is an oil pressure switch that can be used in series with the pump circuit but I just stay away from the electrics). Just my opinion and not worth much at that.
Pat/Ohio
Well-known member
I just installed an electric fuel pump close to the tank on the left inner frame rail (32 Standard Cpe). My 32 would lose it's prime every once in a while and sometimes it would vapor lock on a real hot day. Both problems are due to the location of the pump (on top of the boiler!). The pump is located above the gas tank and thus would drain back after sitting a few days. I'm not saying that there isn't something wrong with the mechanical pump to allow this to happen. However, the pump has been rebuilt a few times (by a professional) and after a while the gas we have available today would affect it. I have a "momentary" toggle switch mounted under the dash on the tunnel. I engage the toggle switch for a few seconds and my problem of starving for gas goes away. It starts right up and away I go! There is an electric fuel pump by Airtex (E8902) that is being manufactured for the exress purpose to use on vintage cars (carbs). It has a low flow rate of 2-4 P.S.I. which would work well on our flatheads. Again, I use it in conjuction with my mechanical pump. Email me if you have questions on the Airtex pump. Regards, Pat
Roger/Sacramento
Senior Member
I don't mind if the motor turns over for few more seconds.....circulates the oil before firing up.
CWPASADENA
Well-known member
I AGREE.
Sometimes one of my early Fords will set for several weeks without being driven. I have an electric pump with a momentary switch on all of them, just to re-fill the carb when the gas has evaporated. All my cars have 6 Volt Systems and this way they will start right up after sitting.
The fuel we have today is a LOT different then what we had in years past. It will evaporate a lot quicker leaving the carb dry.
The Airtex Pump mentioned above works well for this.
Chris
sturgis 39
BANNED
I have the wife blow into the fuel tank. I have also used a hand primer type pump that is used to prime boat motors. I installed a new fuel pump and the car doesn't need a blow in the tank now.
What electric pump are you guys using,I want to run one on my car, I just don't know which one to use.I've looked at carters(gp60504),and yesterday I looked at a Mr. gasket,both have about 3 to 4 lb of pressure.I'm putting a 8Ba in a 30 coupe.Looking for some suggestions please.
4dFord/SC
Well-known member
Airtex, as mentioned above.
4dFord/SC
Well-known member
blucar
Well-known member
Do to the unreliability of the Ford flat-head fuel pumps, it was quite common fifty plus years ago to use an electric pump as a backup pump in case of a pump failure or to overcome a vapor lock.
Electric pumps generally push better than they pull so the electric pump was generally placed near the tank on an inner frame rail or cross member.
The recommended hookup is to install a pressure switch between the oil pressure sender and the block. Power is then run from the ignition switch through a toggle switch to the pressure switch and then to the pump.
The object of the oil pressure switch is to stop the flow of fuel if the engine is not running... In theory, the cranking of the engine will provide enough oil pressure to activate the pressure switch, thereby turning the electric pump on.
If the primary purpose of the electric pump is to prime the carb on a vehicle that has been sitting for awhile, the power to the pump should not be run through the ignition switch and a oil pressure switch. The old style pulse pumps could be easily heard pumping away, once the float bowel filled the pumping stopped. Normal starting procedures would then start the engine right up. The newer rotary type pumps are hard to hear so they should not be run for longer than a minute or so before staring the engine.
I have used electric pumps on almost every old car I have had for the past fifty plus years. The new types of unleaded fuel has caused everyone of my electric pumps to fail... Of course the unleaded fuels have also caused all of my mechanical pumps to fail. If a mechanical pump has failed and is leaking do not try to run an electric pump through it... You will either fill the crankcase full of fuel or pump the fuel out onto the ground.
If the mechanical pump is in good shape the electric pump will pump through the valving and the mechanical pump will pull through the electric pump.
Electric pumps generally push better than they pull so the electric pump was generally placed near the tank on an inner frame rail or cross member.
The recommended hookup is to install a pressure switch between the oil pressure sender and the block. Power is then run from the ignition switch through a toggle switch to the pressure switch and then to the pump.
The object of the oil pressure switch is to stop the flow of fuel if the engine is not running... In theory, the cranking of the engine will provide enough oil pressure to activate the pressure switch, thereby turning the electric pump on.
If the primary purpose of the electric pump is to prime the carb on a vehicle that has been sitting for awhile, the power to the pump should not be run through the ignition switch and a oil pressure switch. The old style pulse pumps could be easily heard pumping away, once the float bowel filled the pumping stopped. Normal starting procedures would then start the engine right up. The newer rotary type pumps are hard to hear so they should not be run for longer than a minute or so before staring the engine.
I have used electric pumps on almost every old car I have had for the past fifty plus years. The new types of unleaded fuel has caused everyone of my electric pumps to fail... Of course the unleaded fuels have also caused all of my mechanical pumps to fail. If a mechanical pump has failed and is leaking do not try to run an electric pump through it... You will either fill the crankcase full of fuel or pump the fuel out onto the ground.
If the mechanical pump is in good shape the electric pump will pump through the valving and the mechanical pump will pull through the electric pump.
Merc Cruzer
Well-known member
Carter: 12 volt: 2 to 4 lbs pressure - MAC's EFP-9350-12C - $65.95....I bought the same Carter fuel pump but in 6 volt and it works great....no need for a regulator
CWPASADENA
Well-known member
I believe Airtex makes the same pump in 12 volts. Ask your Parts Store or get on-line and see what you can find under "Airtex electric 12 Volt fuel pump".
I think Mac's also has them.
The Carter pump also works well.
Chris