Electric Fuel Pump Question

When you go to the Ebay descriptions of the Airtex E 8902 electric fuel pump notice the different statements even in the same item and seller descriptions. 6 volt Negative ground and below states will work positive ground if isolated from frame,etc. I got the same statements from different vendors and even Airtex consultant themselves,one even told me that they will work on positive or negative grounds,but just make sure the black goes to your ground,what? I could only get the two I bought and returned to only work as a negative ground to my battery and could never get one to work at all with positive ground. I still believe that the low pressure pump is a 12 volt negative ground pump that run on 6 volts produces half the pressure,thus the low pressure I am looking for without a regulator. I have also been told that some have been labeled the higher pressure but are the low pressure and Airtex is using up old labeling,again,what? Guess I will wait another couple years until they finally know what they are making and labeling. Again you will see the confusion just reading different Ebay sellers descriptions on pressure and negative/positive ground.:confused:
 
"Pete, will those inertia switches work on 6 volts if so it would be logical to wire one on the wiring to the electric pump which would be fitted close to the gas tank."

Yes, it is just a resetable switch. It will work on any voltage.
All new cars have them.
 
Where are the inertia switches typically located on the new cars ? and where is a good spot to put it on our early Fords ? I like this idea .
 
Some are mounted in the trunk behind the side panel.
They can be mounted anywhere on the car but near the fuel pump is probably better.
Mount it where you can get at it easily to reset it....The car falling off a jack will trip it sometimes etc etc.
 
37 Coupe said:
When you go to the Ebay descriptions of the Airtex E 8902 electric fuel pump notice the different statements even in the same item and seller descriptions. Guess I will wait another couple years until they finally know what they are making and labeling.:confused:
Click to expand...

I have the E8902 and it does not ground through the pump body. It has two wires. The 12 volt E80126S is the same. For my postive ground system I just grounded the positive wire from the pump to the bolt that holds my pump and the negative to the switch. (See my post # 9 showing tan positive and black negative.) Won't be any different in a couple of years. Might as well go for it now.:)
 
Thanks Pete .I would say that fitting an Inertia switch would be the best way of all for safety, and one can fit a toggle switch as well if desired.
 
Here's my setup. Now with a check valve and bypass the mechanical pump can pull fuel around the electric pump and run independently.

2012-06-24_09-21-33_195.jpg


Not as clean as Henry's but I'd already ordered the Carter 6V unit from Mac's. Apparently the Airtex pump will let the the mechanical pump run without obstruction. I hate to complicate things, but my car had already stranded me once with vapor lock even after letting it cool and swapping my spare mechanical pump I carry in the trunk.

Yes I agree the inertia switch is a good idea and if anyone has a setup with a 6V I'd luv to see how it's wired.
 
"Yes I agree the inertia switch is a good idea and if anyone has a setup with a 6V I'd luv to see how it's wired."

It is wired in series with the electric pump hot lead.
 
As I'm thinking about such an inertia "kill" switch I'm thinking it would be good to put it in the line from the battery to the ignition switch so that (with the electric pump drawing through that switch) the engine is killed in a wreck. I was thinking that when I was using my throttle knob for driving in the heat. If I wrecked without pushing that knob in the engine and back wheels would still be churning. Any reasons not to put it in the line to the ignition switch?

Where can I get such a switch?
 
I have hooked them up on race cars to kill both the fuel pump and the ignition.
Works fine.
I get them from wrecking yards but you can get them new at parts houses.
Most new cars have them.
They are easy to check for operation. Mount it in a vise. Hook a continuity checker
to it and rap it with a screwdriver handle. It should turn off.
 
Old Henry said:
Here are low pressure (2.5-4 psi) pumps so you don't need a regulator and you can run the pump continuously or just when you need it which is what I do. Mechanical pump will pull fuel through them just fine.

For 12 volt it's AirTex E8016S available here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/AIRTEX-E8016...880d0d&vxp=mtr

Old Henry, Is this pump relatively? I am thinking about getting one. The pump I am using is really noisy. it's like this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/ELECTRIC-FU...es&hash=item5d33d98f1d&vxp=mtr#ht_3571wt_1230

Thanks.
Click to expand...
 
Y-Blockhead said:
Old Henry, Is this pump relatively? I am thinking about getting one. The pump I am using is really noisy.Thanks.
Click to expand...

If you're asking about noise, there is none with the Airtex. I can not hear it unless the engine is turned off and everything is quiet. I don't know about that universal pump that you referred to. Looks very different from the Airtex. It's also too high of pressure at 4-6 lbs. I'm even finding my Airtex rated at 2.5-4 lbs. sometimes overrides my carb float valve and I'm probably going to have to install a pressure regulator for the occassional consant use like on this hot trip I just took. Short bursts just to prime my mechanical pump are no problem.

Here's the hot trip in case you missed it: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74987
 
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