Electric Fan

Absolutely, did it many years ago
Late ‘97s taurus SVO 2 speed. The SVO shroud holding the fan is practically a “bolt on”
2 thermo switches with bungs soldered into the lower tank by the outlets. Low switch @ 175 and the high @ 195. They switch 2 relays for power. Reason for the switches in the radiator; the thermostats control engine temp. The fan moderates the radiator output temp.
Any electric fan you use is an energy hog. I used the SVO alternator off the same car. Wired with the sensing circuit wire on the battery side of the starter solenoid.
Pain in the butt, but well worth it if you plan on driving the car. Sure, you can use the OEM fan but your cooling system AND IGNITION TIMING has to be spot on.
 
Absolutely, did it many years ago
Late ‘97s taurus SVO 2 speed. The SVO shroud holding the fan is practically a “bolt on”
2 thermo switches with bungs soldered into the lower tank by the outlets. Low switch @ 175 and the high @ 195. They switch 2 relays for power. Reason for the switches in the radiator; the thermostats control engine temp. The fan moderates the radiator output temp.
Any electric fan you use is an energy hog. I used the SVO alternator off the same car. Wired with the sensing circuit wire on the battery side of the starter solenoid.
Pain in the butt, but well worth it if you plan on driving the car. Sure, you can use the OEM fan but your cooling system AND IGNITION TIMING has to be spot on.

It goes without saying that this approach would require a previous conversion of the vehicle to a 12 volt system. Also, note Gene's energy hog comment.
 
If your new radiator didn't solve overheating issues, don't even think a band-aid electric fan will fix the problem.


This is correct! I tried to solve my overheating problem with an electric fan. I have a route that I drive ('46 coupe with 8BA no thermostats) It's a fairly straight road where the elevation goes up 1,000 feet over 30 miles. On a hot day I could not exceed 60 MPH without the temperature going over 210 degrees. I decided to put an electric fan in front of the radiator with a temperature sensor screwed into a head. This had absolutely no benefit. If anything it is worse, because at speed, the fan does not increase the air flow through the radiator, it actually decreases it due to the block off effect of the fan and shroud. The fan does help when idling or in traffic. Make sure you have all the correct sheet metal around the radiator. I'm not sure about the Shoebox, but the '46 should have a plate below and behind the radiator, it has one hole in it for the crank handle, and one below the radiator drain ****. I only became aware of it because of a recent post by someone asking how to attach it. I'm going to fabricate something to duplicate this, as I'm assuming it will cause a slight vacuum behind the radiator.
 
When I got my 52 it had an electric fan plus the original and it ran hot anyhow. I made sure timing was spot on, dumped the elect. fan, replaced hoses and two new 180 stats.
Problem solved. Just say'n .......
 
I would truly rather find and correct the cause of any overheating. I drive cars that are over 75 years old that do not overheat even in the hot summer weather. If they overheat at idle, something is wrong and can be corrected. I don't have a shroud, don't have an electric fan, don't have a carburetor spacer, don't have copper pennies hammered into the intake.

Adding a band-aid, like an electric fan, often leads to another band-aid, like an alternator to provide enough power, that leads to another band-aid (insert next item here). And so on.

The most common cause of overheating is not having a good, clean radiator with correct radiator cap. Thermostats were designed to control the proper operating temperature - removing them defeats the purpose. Don't forget about proper tuning - timing is critical.

Happy Semiquincentennial to everyone. I'm heading to the garage,

Ken
 
I would truly rather find and correct the cause of any overheating. I drive cars that are over 75 years old that do not overheat even in the hot summer weather. If they overheat at idle, something is wrong and can be corrected. I don't have a shroud, don't have an electric fan, don't have a carburetor spacer, don't have copper pennies hammered into the intake.

Adding a band-aid, like an electric fan, often leads to another band-aid, like an alternator to provide enough power, that leads to another band-aid (insert next item here). And so on.

The most common cause of overheating is not having a good, clean radiator with correct radiator cap. Thermostats were designed to control the proper operating temperature - removing them defeats the purpose. Don't forget about proper tuning - timing is critical.

Happy Semiquincentennial to everyone. I'm heading to the garage,

Ken

couldn't agree more! :)
 
I only experience near-over-heating in stop-n-go city traffic, which is seldom. When the car sits in traffic the stock fan mostly just thrashes the engine compartment air around. I tried an electric fan .... with 12v system had to upgrade my GM alternator from 55 AMP to 12 AMP. Regardless for me, the electric fan did not improve overall air flow. What will improve cooling and you see it in every modern car, is an inner shroud fitted over the entire inside face of the radiator to make the fan draw air thru the entire surface of the radiator. I had an HVAC metal duct fabricator make one.
 
Got invited to put the ‘49 in the 4th of July parade. 3 1/2 hours of stop and go driving in 90° heat.
The Taurus fan never had to go into high speed; it cycled on the low speed while maintaining 180° engine temperature. Reading off mechanical gauges.
 
I have a '90s 3.0 Taurus 2-speed fan on my 8BA 8N tractor. It's controlled by a Volvo fan relay and a BMW temperature switch. All parts were easily found in a pick-a-part type junkyard. You do need at least a 60A alternator in my experience. Works great for me as my swap cannot use a mechanical fan. The legendary Lincoln MK8 fan is similar as is 3.8 Taurus fan and early 90s Volvo fan. On a '69 Mustang radiator I used a 2000 Contour dual 2-speed fan that fit well too.

But before I did that, OP, I would be sure that the rest of the car was tip-top first. Timing and carburation correct. No giant vacuum leaks. T-stats opening correctly. A proper shroud that covers the whole radiator core with no side leaks that forces all the air through is critical IMHO to maximum cooling. Maybe even see if the water pump impellers are intact. Bunch of Flathead cars running stock mechanical fans that don't overheat over the last 75+ years. Make sure you don't have an underlying issue that electric fans won't fix first.
 
I could not solve my overheating at idle problem on my rebuilt engine (driver over 1000 miles before giving in). Tried multiple new radiators, timing, various thermostats and on and on. Electric fan fixed my problem day 1 and it’s been driving bliss ever since. Even on 100 degree days.

I only had issues at idle.
 
I could not solve my overheating at idle problem on my rebuilt engine (driver over 1000 miles before giving in). Tried multiple new radiators, timing, various thermostats and on and on. Electric fan fixed my problem day 1 and it’s been driving bliss ever since. Even on 100 degree days.

I only had issues at idle.

AFAIK, the fan can be attached backwards on at least some flathead engines. and if so, it will still draw air in the same direction through the radiator. but do it very poorly, and could contribute, if not be the primary cause, of overheating at idle. and only at idle. as the fan is of much less importance when at higher RPMs.
 
A little off-topic, but saw this electric fan install on the weekend in an absolutely beautiful 32 roadster. Typically you just see one slapped on the rear of the rad which makes it stick out like a sore thumb, but this was so tastefully done, it’s barely noticeable.
 

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