electric fan

tuneman

tuneman

Senior Member
Has anyone installed a electric fan behind the rad and in front of modell a engine/ what fan, do you remove the stock fan blade, couple of my friends and i want to try this
 
I don't mean to sound like a jerk but is you were to go the sister site of this one the .HAMB. the specialize in modified A's and they can give you additional information more so then this site. Not that this site cant give you answers but going to specialists can be better.
 
Why? The stock cooling system is more than adequate for a stock Model A. I doubt there is anything you could do to a modified Model A engine to make it overheat if it is running properly. What is the rest of the story?

Charlie Stephens
 
MO POWER!!! not on my A but on my truck I set up a cheap eBay fan electric thermostat controlled kit. very simple. you will want to make some brackets to hold the fan. the little plastic hangers are a joke. you will also probably need to be 12 volt. or find 6v fan kit.
 
Fans are only needed at very low speeds and when idling . It takes power for the engine to turn the fan . With an electric fan , a person can turn it off when not needed if the fan is set up with a switch .
 
Charlie Stephens said:
Why? The stock cooling system is more than adequate for a stock Model A. I doubt there is anything you could do to a modified Model A engine to make it overheat if it is running properly. What is the rest of the story?

Charlie Stephens
Click to expand...

I had trouble with my A overhating in 2013. At great expense, I put in a Brassworks heavy duty radiator - the best available at the time, I was told. There was no improvement over the one I had had made locally.:mad: The motor was a fairly mild touring engine and I was travelling at about 50 mph in temperatures around 30+C (high 80s F). In my case, the rest of the story is I was towing a camper that weighed about a ton (2,240 lb).
So there's something that was done to a modified Model A engine that made it overheat! My only way to keep going was to drop the speed back and take it out of O/D.
I have since had a new core put in the original radiator here in Australia. It is is far more efficient than the US one. When not towing, I have to cover part of the radiator.
 
I bought an electric fan from one of the venders of hot rod parts locally and then bough a shroud from A Model A parts vender. The fan had a thermostatically controlled on/off switch which a few people talked me out of using and told me to use a manual switch instead. This was for an Iron Duke in an A. I never really finished the car but for the few miles I did drive it, it didn't overheat, (Probably less than 200 miles on 29 radiator and rebuilt engine.) Turned it off at road speeds over 25 mph.
 
The back story behind this is . I belong to a large model a touring club. We travel the country, nobody trailers. a group of us are completly stock!!!
then there is the group i travel with on long tours as a small group of highly
modified a "s. when we travel as a club, sometimes with more than 50 cars. we all travel only as fast as the slowest car can drive safely. the highly modified group sometimes travel on long tours by ourselves . we travel on major highways and back roads too. we travel in all weather except snow . we will travel in weather in the 90"s as we did this weekend. at high speeds on very hilly to the mountains some will over heat ,we back off some. Some only get to a little over 190 to 200 deg. our thoughts are if we had a electric fan to swith on when needed we could solve this problem. reading my first post i stated i had a model a engine . on the ham most are modified to a modern engine!
there clearence would be different. so thats my reason to post here. there is a group of highly modified cars here. open to all suggestions
 
A fan shroud won't likely help at speeds over 25 MPH . A fan shroud gets in the way of removing or replacing the water pump and fan .
 
A fan shroud and properly installed engine pans in concert with a clean block and clean radiator should do the job.
All of the above elements, not just 1 or 2, they all work together to keep things at the proper operating temperature.
 
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