Edelbrock head and gasket problem - over heat

drgoetz

drgoetz

Member
Pulled the head from my engine after an overheat problem. In the lower right side there is a cut-out in the head and block for water circulation. However, my head gasket has 5/16" hole even though the gasket has the die-cut imprint for the complete opening in the head and block.

It was clear there was a coolant leak as the cylinder was full of water and blowing water out the tailpipe.

I do not know the make or brand of the head gasket material (black with fire ring.)
 

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drgoetz said:
Pulled the head from my engine after an overheat problem. In the lower right side there is a cut-out in the head and block for water circulation. However, my head gasket has 5/16" hole even though the gasket has the die-cut imprint for the complete opening in the head and block.

It was clear there was a coolant leak as the cylinder was full of water and blowing water out the tailpipe.

I do not know the make or brand of the head gasket material (black with fire ring.)
Click to expand...
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591018
 
Unfortunately that style of head gasket with those tiny little holes will cause the overheating issue your experiencing I'm not sure what brand the one you have is but there's many made that way. They may work on a stock fresh 239 cube flathead V-8 engine but anything modified with a head that's increased the stock compression ratio there's a good chance there is going to be trouble with that type of gasket.
Those little holes simply allow the coolant to superheat since there's very little water flowing out of the block and into the head. Coolant that enters the head needs to flow to the radiator which then reduces the amount of heat in the coolant before it enters the engine block again to repeat the cooling cycle. Little holes in the head gasket restrict this cool water flow so its now being super heated again.
Any modified or stock flathead engine I build those little holes are modified in other words opened up so the coolant flow is then controlled by the engine thermostats if needed.
Ronnieroadster
 
drgoetz said:
Pulled the head from my engine after an overheat problem. In the lower right side there is a cut-out in the head and block for water circulation. However, my head gasket has 5/16" hole even though the gasket has the die-cut imprint for the complete opening in the head and block.

It was clear there was a coolant leak as the cylinder was full of water and blowing water out the tailpipe.

I do not know the make or brand of the head gasket material (black with fire ring.)
Click to expand...

I don't believe that evidence of water in that rear 8BA cylinder is from the head gasket you've shown. Take a very close magnified look for a crack from the water jacket holes into the cylinder bore.
 
I'm with Glen - don't automatically blame the head gasket as it is not obviously blown. I would carefully check your block and see if there is any evidence of a crack in the transfer area or around head studs into the bore. Ronnie's tip on increasing flow is a good one, but that may not have anything to do with your issue.
 
Thanks B&S.

Regarding the small head gasket hole in the rear, that was by Ford design. With the 8BA the gasket configuration was changed to force more coolant to the back cylinders to better control coolant flow around the valve pockets and pistons and prevent a short cut from thee front back to the radiator. I wrote up the attached a while back based on my own curiosity.
 

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Thanks to everybody for the info.
I opened up the valve galley and it was full of an oil and water mix. This scares me. Do I have a cracked block?

I matched up the head gasket with a new one. Seems like the one on the engine was for a big bore; the new one is somewhat smaller and fits better.

Additionally, I am having a terrible time cleaning the gasket material from the block. Is there anything I can use to soften this stuff? Then I will be able to magna-flux that area.
 
drgoetz said:
Additionally, I am having a terrible time cleaning the gasket material from the block. Is there anything I can use to soften this stuff? Then I will be able to magna-flux that area.
Click to expand...

As far as removing gasket material, I've used this for perimeter gaskets like for a timing cover.

Permatex 80645 Low VOC Gasket Remover, 4 oz

For the head gaskets, I'd try this which I have not tried. Be careful though since it also removes paint.

CRC Technician Grade Gasket Remover Spray - 12 oz

I've been using "Plastic Razor Blade Scrapers" lately where a razor blade may gouge the surface.

Instead of mag particle testing, liquid penetrant may be better with engine still in the car. The spray can kits aren't cheap but very effective. In my career, I used and was certified to do this testing. We used Magnaflux products but there are cheaper options.
 
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drgoetz said:
Pulled the head from my engine after an overheat problem. In the lower right side there is a cut-out in the head and block for water circulation. However, my head gasket has 5/16" hole even though the gasket has the die-cut imprint for the complete opening in the head and block.

It was clear there was a coolant leak as the cylinder was full of water and blowing water out the tailpipe.

I do not know the make or brand of the head gasket material (black with fire ring.)
Click to expand...

Do you mind pointing out which hole(s) you’re speaking about?
 
Hi Ziggster, see below and also take a look at the attachment in post #4, "Cooling Passages Comparison 59A to 8BA.pdf "

591209
 
Glennpm - Ronnieroadster- and other knowledgeable folks:


The CRC Gasket Remover works GREAT. Spray it on. wait 20 minutes or so, and then "go at it" with a cupped wire brush and a drill motor.


I keep a bottle of the Moroso crack sealer and it works well.


Head went on easily and torqued as per Edelbrock specs.


I won't be able to run the engine until I get back from Okober-Fest and seeing grand kids in Munich.


Stay Tuned! and thanks again,


drgoetz (Bill)
 
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