Edelbrock 1116 heads

N

novaskilling

Member
I’m looking at a set of edelbrock 1116 high lift 8BA heads and was wondering is it necessary to buy the $700 head stud kit they recommend or can I use stock head bolts or even grade 8 bolts?
 
Head might be thicker than stock. You should be able to use grade 5 since the bolt kit looks like way overpriced grade 2.


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I agree here. If the stock bolts are long enough uz the, other wize brade 5 is good enough. Usr grade 8 washers torque to 45 ft lbs ro 3 or more heat cycles. Been doing this for years now
Gramps
 
I know these kits are NOT Grade 2 - that is cheap hardware grade stuff. If you want to use bolts, I'd order Grade 8 bolts and be done with it. You can get any length you need at McMaster-Carr.

I prefer to use studs and stud-kits from ARP - but they are not cheap. Also, the Edelbrock stud-kit is most likely from ARP anyway . . . and probably has the high-quality stainless Acorn nuts on the tops. These are special high-strength stainless acorns (and you'll pay for them).

Here is the ARP stud kit from Summit Racing - I'm sure it is the SAME thing that Edelbrock is selling for quite a bit more:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-154-4102
 
couriosity question ?? Thought the factory studs had a reduced shaft so they wont bind on the head same with the bolts also the bolts had 11/16 AF head not 5/8 the reduced shaft you could machine in but havent found any 7/16 bolts with the larger head any one got a scource for these .
 
Here is a chance to go real nostalgia when people are considering buying marginal, mis-labeled, made who knows where, stuff.

Real nostalgia is buying a length of 7/16 diameter SAE4340 rod (USA made) and making your own studs. Yes, I said studs. If you are using bolts, you are doing it Mickey Mouse. Bolts are good for machine shop business repairing bolt holes in blocks. Torque readings on coarse threads will not be as accurate as fine threads also.

Studs are very easy to make on a lathe with a single point tool. Everyone enjoys cutting threads on a lathe. 48 studs is only a 2 beer job.
With todays available insert tooling it only takes 2 quick passes to produce a 7/16 finished polished thread.
When done machining, you run them down to the heat treaters, have them done to 35RC and you are done. Most quality heat treaters will offer 3 finishes if you desire. Natural if done in inert gas, liquid blasted or black oxide. Try getting that with offshore made stuff.

These will last you a lifetime through many blocks if need be.
You will also know that having been done this way, the threads will be concentric to the shank so the heads will always slide on and off easily.
 
aussie merc, Caterpillar bolts have the desired 11/16 A/F heads, but are somewhat pricey!
 
For those who can't make their own, Allen's Fasteners sells different length ARP studs. Figure out what size you need and order them up.

Once you get to 50, you get a decent discount, so add two more to the cart for spares.

When I purchased my studs approximately 3 years ago, it came to just under $400.

https://www.allensfasteners.com
 
Some tap & taper talk? Or myths?

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=325768&page=2

nickthebandit>>>FYI, a lot of bolts that Ford used were non-standard sizes. For instance, the thread on the end of early ford spindles is 11 / 16"- 18. That is where the hinged tool comes into play. The head stud holes are a tapered fit. Do not chase those holes with standard taps, you will have leaks.>>>

frnkeore>>>The proper tap will be 7/16x14 H-5, where a std tap is 7/16x14 H 3. The last number is the nominal size +/- .0005 so, the -5 means it's .0025 under size.>>>
 
The price for the studs, washers and acorn nuts is about $455 from Summit of Jegs. That is actually not a bad deal - considering the stainless acorn nuts. These studs have a nice allen-head hex receiver in the tops - which makes it easy to remove a stud with the head on in case you have one that is leaking water. Also, it makes it easier to install/remove the heads as you can remove the studs with the heads on the engine.

Lastly, these studs are MUCH better than the cheaper stud kits you see some of the vendors sell. (Like the ones at Speedway for $120). When you torque a set of heads down with ARP studs, the torque readings change very little (even after a few heat cycles) - as the studs are not stretching like the cheaper (stock style) stud kits. Also, the washers are made of really good material, they don't gall and distort like the ones you see in the cheaper kits.

On some of my racing setups, I machine the heads for special "hat washers" - which center in the stud hole and are about the best setup I can use. I have a special spot-face and drill bit that I use on all the stud holes prior to using the hat washers.
 
Jack E/NJ said:
Some tap & taper talk? Or myths?

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=325768&page=2

nickthebandit>>>FYI, a lot of bolts that Ford used were non-standard sizes. For instance, the thread on the end of early ford spindles is 11 / 16"- 18. That is where the hinged tool comes into play. The head stud holes are a tapered fit. Do not chase those holes with standard taps, you will have leaks.>>>

frnkeore>>>The proper tap will be 7/16x14 H-5, where a std tap is 7/16x14 H 3. The last number is the nominal size +/- .0005 so, the -5 means it's .0025 under size.>>>
Click to expand...

I think Nick was a bit mistaken. But frnkeore could be correct. I don’t know the tolerance specs, but he has the concept down. No taper, just a tighter fit.
 
Caterpiller still use tapered threads [taperlock] exhaust studs come to memory [absolute bugger to get out when they break ] Great for studs not so for bolts . Not sure but i belive that 8ba blocks have a thicker head deck due to the factory going to bolts instead of studs
 
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