EAB head gasket ????

K

kendall

Senior Member
i an having problems with my heads holding coolant. the studs look fine but the head to block leaks bad, i pulled the heads and going to try new gaskets again. what would seal better copper or the carbon graphite by best gasket? i have copper on now and was thinking trying the graphite.

thanks
 
I used copper on my 59ab and it leaked like a sieve, so I replaced them with graphite gaskets and have no problem. I tried 2 different sets of heads that had all been milled and the block was straight. 1000 miles now and used no water.
 
If all surfaces are "flat" either style of composite gasket should work just fine. Many leak problems can be traced to excessive torque being applied to the fasteners.
 
Torque the heads per the Ford tightening sequence in three stages. Are the heads and block clean ? Are the heads stock or aftermarket? If they are used as JWL mentions, are they flat - have them checked! Copper gaskets with a couple of shots of copper coat will work fine. I like the Graphtite - Best Gasket product.
 
the heads were toruque to 60lbs. before i strarted my test run, first run on the rebuild, ran untill it got warmed up. stopped and let cool then torque again. at that point i was ready to start my 20 minute break in, i topped off the radiator with coolant and noticed coolant pouring out of the head. i though i would run again to heat it up and re torque....maybe this would seal it....no luck ...just more coolant on the shop floor. i pulled the heads this afternoon and it looks good, the heads are stock and never been milled. i wonder if this might be it......
 
I am sure you checked, but I thought I had head leaks also but it was the hose and the goose neck. If its a small leak some Bars leak works wonders. Good luck.
 
i thought that to oldbugger and i did check, i also thought about the stop leak, but the leak was so large i decided to pull the heads and look.
 
Kendall - have the heads checked for flatness, if they are off, a good machine shop and take off a few thou. You mentioned studs - not bolts for the stock heads.
Did you use thread sealant ?
 
If you're using studs instead of bolts, should you use a lower torque? The finer pitch on the thread will result in higher clamping force with studs. Might be that you are overtightening things as mentioned above.

Mart.
 
i didnt know that 60lbs would be too much for studs, i was going by the ford specs for torque. my engine builder used a great amount of time with it, he used thread sealant. any other ideas guys? i really dont want to do this again.

thanks
 
I experienced same problem. Leaking heads. Be sure your heads are FLAT. I had to have mine milled flat because they were warped. After that no leaks
 
i want to thank everyone here for their help, i will check the heads for flatness and try graphite gaskets. i am new at this and any help is a life saver.

kendall
 
8BA from the factory had head bolts not studs. Are you sure you have an 8BA block??? 8BA gaskets have trapazoidal holes at the rear of the deck also has a hole in the front on each side for a water pump bypass that must be plugged to use 8BA heads on an earlier block. How about a picture of the passenger side deck without the head instaled?

Jim
 
i have it figured out, i think it was the wrong gasket. ........wowzer, learn something everyday with these flatheads. i checked flatness and all is well....soooo, this is got to be it. going to patch things up this weekend and fire her up. wish me luck....and thanks guys.
 

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Looking at your pics, I'd say it was an incorrect gasket that caused your problem. ( Not that I'm an expert on flattys! ) Other than that, I always torque mine in 3 stages. THat sure is a nice looking engine !! Good luck!
 
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