dumb question, but hey I'm new
- Thread starter Pa Joe
- Start date
tuneman
Senior Member
Hi joe
My motor meter has line on it to help!
The line right below the bulb is normal operating temp.
If it goes half way into the bulb on a real hot day that is the top of the limit,If it goes higher it's going to
boil over! If you have a harbor fright near you.
they sell a hand held digital lazer temp tool that you
point at any object and it will tell you the exact temperature of that object. Rad , brake drums ,
engine block,head and so on. this tool is abt 16 to 28
dollars on sale . most in my club have and use it
My motor meter has line on it to help!
The line right below the bulb is normal operating temp.
If it goes half way into the bulb on a real hot day that is the top of the limit,If it goes higher it's going to
boil over! If you have a harbor fright near you.
they sell a hand held digital lazer temp tool that you
point at any object and it will tell you the exact temperature of that object. Rad , brake drums ,
engine block,head and so on. this tool is abt 16 to 28
dollars on sale . most in my club have and use it
skip
BANNED
As long as she's not making steam out of the overflow tube leading to the bottom of the radiator, or boiling over on to the bonnet because the gasket set of the base for the Quail is no good or the gasket set under the Quail is no good than all should be well.
Now I read where the glass tube is at times not always positioned in the same place of every temperature indicator, be it a Quail or flying wings, or that round thingy. Regardless you'll be making around 160 deg F, give or take a bit. Far below 212 deg F for boiling. So I'd say note the mercury level when the engine is at temperature and call that your normal spot. [Opps Thanx Old 182 for the chart below.] Too small to read? Hold the control key down and tap on the + key to enlarge the chart. - key to decrease. Or just click on his chart. I don't know how to do that thumb nail stuff.
You climb a grade she'll get a little hotter, timing is off a bit that will effect the mercury level. Could run hotter.
It's kind of like, "As long as you don't loose water your OK." If she runs too hot you'll know it.
I check the level on my 'A' with a dip stick made from a twig and marked.
Bottom of stick which is lowered into the radiator past my Quail till it touches something to the first mark is two inches. That is the liquid level cold. The next mark is four and five eights from the bottom of the stick. That mark is level with the mounting plate that the Quail turns on to lock down on. And the stick is overall six and three quarters inches long and hangs from a string on my gas control mixture knob under the dash panel. So I have it all the time for a quick look~see.
It is simple and it works.
When she is up to temperature the water level is about three and a quarter inches from the bottom of the stick, indicating a little expansion of the water when hot.
The radiator water level will seek it's own level and if you it's too full she'll pee that out, hopefully out the overflow tube and not on the bonnet if the gaskets are in good shape.
Sorry I could not answer your specific question. skip.
Here is an interesting part of a story from 'Jack 29 Sport Coupe' in Floridia I just read...
"I drove up and down the boulevard in
search of an "anchor" with Kelley Blue Book in hand. I found no
bargains out there-----trust me! I wore my clutch leg out with
all of the stop and start traffic (Orlando at commute time) the
coupe got up to about 200 degrees on the thermometer, but not
hot enough to lose any water. At the end of the line, I decided
to drive home on the turnpike, non stop at 55 mph all the way
home. I had to let the engine cool down and added about a half
gallon of water before I started my journey homeward. Old Yeller
maintained a temp of 187 degrees on the flip. I'm a happy camper."
Now I read where the glass tube is at times not always positioned in the same place of every temperature indicator, be it a Quail or flying wings, or that round thingy. Regardless you'll be making around 160 deg F, give or take a bit. Far below 212 deg F for boiling. So I'd say note the mercury level when the engine is at temperature and call that your normal spot. [Opps Thanx Old 182 for the chart below.] Too small to read? Hold the control key down and tap on the + key to enlarge the chart. - key to decrease. Or just click on his chart. I don't know how to do that thumb nail stuff.
You climb a grade she'll get a little hotter, timing is off a bit that will effect the mercury level. Could run hotter.
It's kind of like, "As long as you don't loose water your OK." If she runs too hot you'll know it.
I check the level on my 'A' with a dip stick made from a twig and marked.
Bottom of stick which is lowered into the radiator past my Quail till it touches something to the first mark is two inches. That is the liquid level cold. The next mark is four and five eights from the bottom of the stick. That mark is level with the mounting plate that the Quail turns on to lock down on. And the stick is overall six and three quarters inches long and hangs from a string on my gas control mixture knob under the dash panel. So I have it all the time for a quick look~see.
It is simple and it works.
When she is up to temperature the water level is about three and a quarter inches from the bottom of the stick, indicating a little expansion of the water when hot.
The radiator water level will seek it's own level and if you it's too full she'll pee that out, hopefully out the overflow tube and not on the bonnet if the gaskets are in good shape.
Sorry I could not answer your specific question. skip.
Here is an interesting part of a story from 'Jack 29 Sport Coupe' in Floridia I just read...
"I drove up and down the boulevard in
search of an "anchor" with Kelley Blue Book in hand. I found no
bargains out there-----trust me! I wore my clutch leg out with
all of the stop and start traffic (Orlando at commute time) the
coupe got up to about 200 degrees on the thermometer, but not
hot enough to lose any water. At the end of the line, I decided
to drive home on the turnpike, non stop at 55 mph all the way
home. I had to let the engine cool down and added about a half
gallon of water before I started my journey homeward. Old Yeller
maintained a temp of 187 degrees on the flip. I'm a happy camper."
Last edited:
Old182
Senior Member
I agree with Skip re: Finding your system's "happy" level. They all do it, and it seems they're all a little different from each other. You don't mention whether you're using straight water, 50/50 mix or whatever. Check the attached chart for different boiling points depending on what's in your cooling system. My 50/50 mix boils at 227F, not 212.
Attachments
jaguar6165
Senior Member
You can check the temp just using you hands after a drive. Feel around the radiator it should be quite hot but you should be able to leave you hand on it without it burning. I was having overheating issues and would feel around after driving and you definitely can tell when its to hot. I didnt always boil over but it did once. After replacing a bad raditor i also picked up a temp gauge. Either the drilled and tapped water neck of the tube that fits in the upper hose works. It helps keep and eye on things and definitely gives you piece of mind.
Mike V. Florida
Well-known member
We have a member of our club with a motometer that would register hot. Whenever he drove it he would see the red line go up and worry about overheating. He would fiddle with this and fiddle with that. Clean out the radiator, changed mixtures of water and coolant. He would drive the car and would be exhausted wondering about that red line all the way up there. Driving was almost a chore and he wondered if he should take it out on hot days until he hit on the solution.
He took off the motometer and put on a regular cap. No more worrys!! True story just ask Tony S.
He took off the motometer and put on a regular cap. No more worrys!! True story just ask Tony S.
Hi, get steady soft steam from under radiator cap when engine is turned off. Radiatior temp is 162, block temp is 159. Cap is a new repro standard type that fits tight. Also, Not sure how much coolant to use. What is the correct depth or amount of free space neeeded for expansion?
Tom Endy
Well-known member
None of those type of temperature devices are very accurate. Some don't work at all. Often the mercury in them wants to separate. The water level in a Model A is below the baffle, so at best the device on the radiator cap is only seeing steam and an occasional splash of water.
if you are going to do any serious driving, especially in temps over 100 degrees, it is best to install a temp gauge in the cab. The bulb is mounted in the water casting that sits on top the head. This is where the water is at its hottest, as it is exiting the head. Some of the suppliers carry the casting with the boss installed, as well as the temp gauges.
Tom Endy
if you are going to do any serious driving, especially in temps over 100 degrees, it is best to install a temp gauge in the cab. The bulb is mounted in the water casting that sits on top the head. This is where the water is at its hottest, as it is exiting the head. Some of the suppliers carry the casting with the boss installed, as well as the temp gauges.
Tom Endy
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
I run 50% antifreeze about 1/2" over the top of the tubes. Level always stays good since installing a thermostat.