Dumb *** control rods fit

quickchange

Well-known member
On a 28-29 steering box coloum , how does one line up the holes when fitting both rods back in after plateing?? Can,t seem to locate the bottom holes, There must be a trick, Yes i have tried turning upside down too allow entry from down under in case someone tries a joke on me ?? ;)
Derek from frosty morning , nice days in NZ, Not long to Boise meet:D
 
On a 28-29 steering box coloum , how does one line up the holes when fitting both rods back in after plateing?? Can,t seem to locate the bottom holes, There must be a trick, Yes i have tried turning upside down too allow entry from down under in case someone tries a joke on me ?? ;)
Derek from frosty morning , nice days in NZ, Not long to Boise meet:D
Oh! Derek,
You're living DANGEROUSLY!:eek: Usually, when I condem the parts as being "DUMB ASSED," I usually end up as being "THE DUMB ***!":eek:
When I messed up, Chief would say, "Buy you books, send you to school, and you still STUPID!":D
Bill Stupid.
 
Thanks, New there would be a simple solution, now to find the tube. Hope others learn the trick, Missed going to school, too busy on the farm.
 
May help to have a helper:

1. Place both rods through upper bushing & push upper bushing as high as it will go, close to the 90 degree bend.

2. Do not install upper bushing into steering column yet -- just wait.

3. Insert both rods.

4. Look through one bottom hole at a time, either beginning with the spark or throttle rod whereby one should see daylight.

5. One person should be moving the selected rod from the top, & another one looking through the corresponding hole on the bottom. (Flashlight may help.) The bottom observer should establish communications with the top rod controller on the other end; e.g., move rod up, down, left, right, 6 o'clock, 3 o'clock or what ever. Be patient.

6. After both rods are correctly installed, insert upper bushing.

Hope this helps.
 
Derek, you can find brass tubing of all sizes and wall thicknesses at the hobby shop in the RC airplane and train section.
 
James . Thanks, Question for you , I have an A engine that has been completly rebuilt twice, only the block & paint not been replaced?? its 100 over, great to 30mph , then becomes harsh, Our current thoughts are after 1500 miles it has been bored off line, Soon too pull down & to measure it. Too posibly save this engine & my hair , Are there pistons with an off set guedgeon we can use ???That you know off, This should cure the problem , Currently ready to pull engine & fit my G28T with McDowell in , Your advise really appreciated, Thankyou all for your comments .
 
Derek, no pistons with an offset pin that I know of. Would it not be as easy to sleeve the block and bore it to any size you want? Probably be easier than finding special pistons. I wish you were over here with it, I would fix that one just to figure it out.
 
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James thanks, How about you come vist us ??????? once pulled down for 6th time & measured will advise , just thought might be an off set avalible. I could be wrong but symptons indicate that, drive line etc all checked & was fine 500 miles earlier with org engine, its even noisy but does not vibrate, do have hi comp head but has 55thou clearance , will try a stock head but , who knows. Our door is always open for visitors, Thanks
 
I just installed the spark and gas levels like H L Chauvin stated. The only problem I had was the felt anti-rattlers were too big and wouldn't let the tip of the rods go through the lower holes. I ended up wrapping several layers (maybe 5 or 6) of black electrical tape around the levers about half way down the rods. I think it should keep the rods from rattling. Hope this help a little.
Rusty Nelson
 
James . Thanks, Question for you , I have an A engine that has been completly rebuilt twice, only the block & paint not been replaced?? its 100 over, great to 30mph , then becomes harsh, Our current thoughts are after 1500 miles it has been bored off line, Soon too pull down & to measure it. Too posibly save this engine & my hair , Are there pistons with an off set guedgeon we can use ???That you know off, This should cure the problem , Currently ready to pull engine & fit my G28T with McDowell in , Your advise really appreciated, Thankyou all for your comments .

Quick Change, any chance the flywheel has been installed on the wrong orientation? Perhaps moving it 180 degrees around may cure the shakes?
 
I just installed the spark and gas levels like H L Chauvin stated. The only problem I had was the felt anti-rattlers were too big and wouldn't let the tip of the rods go through the lower holes. I ended up wrapping several layers (maybe 5 or 6) of black electrical tape around the levers about half way down the rods. I think it should keep the rods from rattling. Hope this help a little.
Rusty Nelson

Black electrical tape probably won't stay in place long, so friction tape would probably work better. The original parts were short pieces of rubber hose, and that's what I use.
 
Farrell, No chance, Bought an engine fully rebuilt but had sat for couple of years, installed it, ran it down the road , sounded like crank was going to fall out, HARSH , not vibrating, pulled down, crank bent 4 thou, straightened it, same noise , pulled , balanced , same noise, pulled sent to a good rebuilder, new couter balanced crank fitted, cam bearings, new white metal on rods, insert mains ok , rings, valves, balaced , etc, fitted back, same dam noise, pulled rebalanced , same noise, It sounds like crank wants to fall out, above 30mph , below fine, Either mains off centre line or bore line has been moved, you can,t push piston straight up & down it needs to oscillate, like figure 8 pattern, Im leaning to an off set guegon to fix it, Might try Daves suggestion on custom pistons once checked, All other engines have built myself, one is happy at 5800 revs & smooth, so i know something is not inline ,
Good news is i fitted steering rods by above ideas, so all not lost, One is never too old to learn, Heading to Boise meet in 2 weeks, Team leader for modified,
 
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