Duel Carbs
- Thread starter bluemoontruck
- Start date
mike657894
Well-known member
i would geuss welded with fire and brass. unless someone knows what the proper way to weld cast is?
MikeK
Well-known member
Well now, there's a can of worms! We could add that one to "which oil?", "Whitewalls?" and a few others!
When I was in high school I took welding shop and first learned to weld broken C.I. lathe beds and legs with a 1/4"x1/4" square cast gray iron filler rod, borax (flux) and an acetylene torch. Since then I've encountered quite a few other methods... I'm sure others could post their absolute surefire no-crack methods!
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
Mike, that's exactly how I like to repair cast iron, but I can't find the cast iron filler rod, and none of the welding shops around here even know about it. I bought some in Watertown, S.D. at the welding shop, but only have a few inches left. That was the shop that first told me about it, and they are the only shop that seems to know about it.
Ray in La Mesa
Well-known member
I've run that setup for many years using the Secrets of Speed article & it does great, about the same milage but about 25% increase in performance. I originally welded the second mount on but it kept cracking so the last time I braised it and have had no further problems.
hardtimes
Well-known member
'proper way'...to weld cast iron, is to use cast iron !
Like Mike says...like opening up a can of worms...as to answer in detail.
Take cast iron to a professional cast iron welding company to have welded/repaired properly and they will have an oven to start with...then eventually add cast iron to repair.
Last edited:
denniskliesen
Well-known member
I've used nirod before.
Synchro909
Well-known member
Never tried it but I was once told an arc welder would do the trick with ordinary mild steel jobber electrodes with a copper wire wrapped around them. Must give it a try one day!
BTW, I contemplated using 2 updraughts but there is no room if you want to steer a RHD car.
BTW, I contemplated using 2 updraughts but there is no room if you want to steer a RHD car.
Mike V. Florida
Well-known member
"RCI is a high-quality gray iron oxyacetylene welding rod, designed for gas welding of cast iron, general fabrication or building up new or worn surfaces on castings."
http://www.weldingwire.com/products/Electrodes-Cast-Iron/RCI
Bruce of MN
Well-known member
I took a night school welding class, jeez, 40 years ago, and the teacher said Machinable nickel rod was for arc welding cast iron. He had a mobile welding business, so he wasn't a "theorist". I used it to build up a piece of broken off table on a little vise.
Joe K
Well-known member
One of the advantages of working in a nuclear power plant is one comes across ALL sorts of unusual repair methodologies.
Like Eutectic Weld Electrodes for cast iron.
https://www.castolin.com/en-US/product/eutectrode-xuper-2240
Only $125 a pound 20 years ago. But comes with nuclear certification!
I found a way to get 5 lbs past the metal detectors at the gate.
They do recommend "hammer peining" of the partially completed weld.
Joe K
Like Eutectic Weld Electrodes for cast iron.
https://www.castolin.com/en-US/product/eutectrode-xuper-2240
Only $125 a pound 20 years ago. But comes with nuclear certification!
I found a way to get 5 lbs past the metal detectors at the gate.
They do recommend "hammer peining" of the partially completed weld.
Joe K
Ray in La Mesa
Well-known member
No, in my experience each carb thinks it's the only on there. I tried changing jets but went back to stock ones on my two "B" carbs.
MikeK
Well-known member
And the Can of Worms has been opened!
(What a way to hijack a thread, I plead guilty!)
So far we have:
(What a way to hijack a thread, I plead guilty!)
So far we have:
- I would guess welded with fire and brass.
- Square C.I. rods…
- I've used nirod before.
- mild steel jobber electrodes with a copper wire wrapped around them.
- -Cast-Iron/RCI
- Machinable nickel rod
- [FONT="]Eutectic Weld Electrodes for cast iron (castolin)[/FONT]
Joe K
Well-known member
Don't forget that some use a standard MIG to weld cast iron. I think they use the regular steel wire. My mild steel spool says AWS A5.18 ER70S-6.
And they do it WITHOUT pre-heating the casting?
Mebbe not. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/cast-iron.htm
I can't think of WHY this should work - but some say it works for them?
Joe K
And they do it WITHOUT pre-heating the casting?
Mebbe not. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/cast-iron.htm
I can't think of WHY this should work - but some say it works for them?
Joe K
denniskliesen
Well-known member
Nirod is basically nickel electric welding rod.
Brazing rod using gas, cast iron rod, any of what is available out there that claims to work with cast iron the cast being welded needs to be preheated. Temperature sticks that are like a crayon in different temperature ranges can be bought at most well stocked welding supply stores. Also the piece being welded needs to cool slowly. I have welded a lot in the past on heavy equipment so to speak in the field. Everybody has their own method and whatever works for them, fine. Read books on the subject and get hands on experience from somebody that is willing to show you their methods.
Eutectic is a brand name and they have several alloys for welding various types of metal.
Back to the main subject on the dual carbs. I've seen modifications like the OP has shown. Depending on application I wouldn't expect to get a better mpg compared to a stock setup and there is a lot more involved in tuning, matching or getting a balance of intake and exhaust. To me a progressive linkage downdraft would work much better.
hardtimes
Well-known member
Hey dennis,
x2 on your carb conclusions !
Regarding the cast iron welding. From speaking with well known/recommended companies and from reading, I've been informed that if you 'repair' anything cast iron, with anything other than cast iron...they will not be able to repair that part...without having to cut out all of the non cast iron and then use cast iron repairs(expensive done right). Then maybe not repairable and then very expensive. They will not take on any work where previous repairs are done this way, i.e.- nirod,etc) So, if a guy has RARE/expensive item...say antique head / block with nirod etc., that needs more fixing...good luck ?
MikeK
Well-known member
Well, that manifold looks kinda cool, but from a flow bench point of view the traffic jam at that intersection can't possibly be good. Reminds me of those 'put a 4bbl on your 2bbl manifold' adapters Warshawsky used to sell.
Progressive would be interesting. Convert the inner carb to operate like a vacuum secondary (no mechanical linkage) and make it a bit richer.
While you've got all your favorite C.I. welding stuff laid out make the intersection a larger, flow friendly plenum using a piece of 2" cast iron soil pipe. Total cost will be only $10 for the piece of soil pipe and $500 for welding supplies if you use the Castolin xuper 2240! When you're done you could put it in a well-used sheep pasture and play 'Where's Waldo' trying to find it.
Progressive would be interesting. Convert the inner carb to operate like a vacuum secondary (no mechanical linkage) and make it a bit richer.
While you've got all your favorite C.I. welding stuff laid out make the intersection a larger, flow friendly plenum using a piece of 2" cast iron soil pipe. Total cost will be only $10 for the piece of soil pipe and $500 for welding supplies if you use the Castolin xuper 2240! When you're done you could put it in a well-used sheep pasture and play 'Where's Waldo' trying to find it.