Dual points install:

40ford

40ford

Well-known member
I have the distributor out of my 59AB engine and the points look shot.I got a set of ECH-CS47 ordered from NAPA.Is this a good set to install?Can I install these points without using a machine to set them up and get by?Does anyone have the directions on installing these points?
 
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If you look up setting points with ruler or ruler method ignition or similar you'll find what you need. This tells you how to do it without a machine.
For searching if you use Google for searching, use the above words and put Ford barn in the words, it seems to work better than the search function on this site.
Martin.
 
scooder said:
If you look up setting points with ruler or ruler method ignition or similar you'll find what you need. This tells you how to do it without a machine.
For searching if you use Google for searching, use the above words and put Ford barn in the words, it seems to work better than the search function on this site.
Martin.
Click to expand...

I have done it as scooder suggests. Worked well. If you can not find it being explained I can look for it. Don't have the time right now.

Neal
 
Here's a diagram of the distributor that might help understand it.

DistributorServicee.jpg


Here are the instructions for removing and replacing the distributor:

DistributorServiced.jpg



Here are the instructions for replacing the breaker points:

DistributorServicef.jpg


And here are the instructions for setting the timing:

DistributorServiceb.jpg


DistributorServicec1.jpg
 
The instructions look like they contradict them selves ,It says 3/8 from the near side of the mounting hole nearest the vacuum unit ,but the picture shows it on the far side of the mounting hole .??
 
Yes,I noticed that also Ted.Heck,what is my chances of just putting the new points in and car running OK?Problem is I don't even have a vise here handy to hold unit!Looks like it will be difficult to set gap with shaft moving.I noticed the tab where the timing screw is shows set on center.Should I mark this to make sure it is put back at same place before removing plate?
 
It looks mis leading in the picture but really isn't. The upright ruler is standing next to the ruler laying flat and if you follow it to the bottom, it has a 3/8 mark that is lined up with the edge of the hole nearest the Vacuum brake. I just set two of mine using this method. Just my 2 cents.

I will add that I used the same Napa Echlin points as you.
 
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40ford, don't know where you are. Your picture shows snow so maybe high. The correct timing depends somewhat on elevation. I never use the ruler method to set timing at my elevation of 5,000 feet because I need it a lot earlier to get this thin air up here firing. I time with my vacuum gauge. Replace the wiper vacuum hose coming out below the carburetor with a vacuum gauge. Idle engine then adjust timing for maximum vacuum. For me that's all the way advanced. I think it's a better way.
 
Be sure the tang on the drive side of the distributor is positioned to match the groove in the end of the camshaft when you put it back on. If you don't, it is probable you will break off the ears of the distributor case.
 
Well I got the points in and put distributor back in and my car would not start!I took the distributor back out and realized I did not have the timing tab set exactly like it was before,so I re-set that.I had a problem getting the gap set,because it just did not seem like there was a lot of movement for adjustment!Anyway about .014 is what I had.Put distributor back in and my car cranked right up and runs good!I guess I just lucked out on this job!Thanks for all the input on my first time working on a duel point distributor.
 
Most distributors after timing them on a machine the timing mark ends up at the 2nd mark up ,and the right points would be approx. 017-018 .left about 014.You may find you are running retarded Ted.
 
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40ford, many of the new contact sets are absolute crap. The base contact oval slots are not quite in the right place and the cam adjusting screw wont turn fully enough to gap the contacts correctly. The base contact might have to be bent a little to line it up perfectly parallel with the moving contact. Its very important to insert the feeler gauge parallel facing the contacts to get the correct "feel" or friction when setting. If I am not using a timing fixture or machine I set the contacts to .015" or .016" which allows a little leeway for the contact fibre rubbing block to bed in. Make sure new contacts are "CLEAN" and free from preservative coatings or oil. Set the timing scale on the side to "0" centre and drive the car and tune it with the vacuum brake adjustment so that the engine only "just" pinks under heavy load going up a hill or such. Original FORD contacts are the very best quality if you can find them. I have even had some Drake contact sets which would not fit properly and they were supposed to be very good ???Its important to be very particular on doing ignition work so as to get the best from your car. Regards, Kevin.
 
I got the contacts from NAPA and they seemed like a pretty good quality.They were Echlin CS47's.
 
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