dry carbs

flatmotor40

flatmotor40

Well-known member
Went to rejet 97's today and when took top off to put power valve i and low and behold no gas i bowl just a little in channel for power valve been about 3 weeks since drove because of rain everyday.What is with this crappy gas.Thanks Feds for using CORN I guess that is the problem that it goes away too fast and they worry about ozone stuff.Don't mean to rant but that is why I have to pump and pump to get started after a few weeks not drining it.Anyone else have this problem.Thanks
 
Dont normally happen in 3 weeks.Gas in bowl will evorarate in that time or your PV is leaking. OMO. ken ct. Ive spent lot of time in Ga.and they seem to have an abundance of gas stations selling straight gas [no corn] why not use it. ken ct.
 
If the carb was hot when you last shut the engine down this new gas will evaporate. This is where Bob shewman's vented carb insulated does it's job. Insulates the carb from the HOT intake manifold. Bob's contact info 1-610-933-6637 gadgiteer@aol.com G.M.
 
I have stock fuel pump and 3/8 in. walnut insulator under my three carbs. The gas will evaporate in a few days and I don't like overusing the starter so I squirt gas into each carb until the pump fills the bowls up. Am thinking of drilling a small hole in the tops to fill the bowls manually. Then insert plug. Should work. :confused:
 
Gas will not evaporate in 3 days. 2 weeks maybe but not 3 days. I would say you have a leaking PV or valves. ken ct.
 
I believe it is the gas evaporating. I took my carbs off and bench tested them overnight and the next day there was a significant drop in the fuel level. I had placed them on paper to be able to see any leakage and everything was bone dry. The needle valves won't leak without some pressure behind them and the power valves are low enough in the circuit that the gas would have to run up hill. I never smell any raw gas in the garage after it sits so the bottom line is IMO it'the gas.
Regards, Don
 
Yuppy gas is the issue, the new fuels are designed for fuel injected engines and have a low vaporization temp. Shutting off a hot engine or shutting off and engine and letting it set for a number of days will cause a dry start issue. The best thing you can do is install a heat spacer to lessen the percolation temp or restart a vehicle that has beeen dormant dor more than 3-4 days with starting fluid. I have been running a combination of racing gas and pump gas and this seems to cure the hot start issue and storage time up to about 10 days but after that its best to use starting fluid because continued cranking of the starter is not a good idea either.
 
I have made 2 insulators out of micarata I had left from work.1"thick.I use an electric fuel pump but my Model A with 3/2's on it has to crank over and over to get it going after a week or so.No gas smell in garage this weel will take top off and run fuel pump to fill bowls and just let it sit.Will not quit raining to drive these cars.I"ll try to get it going this week Thanks for info.
 
I forgot to say that they was some fuel still in chamber of power valve.Had bought new 43 jets and 65 pv but it had 65 in them already but as I say a little fuel in chamber,If the pv was leaking wouldn't it be gone from there also Thanks Flatmotor40
 
Combined with the gas boiling out of the carb the fuel pump gets real hot. I just drove a 39 to a show yesterday, it was 90 out side temperature and running at 180.
I pulled up at the garage and left it idle a few minutes. After pulling in the garage it started running a little rough. I shut it down, jumped out and opened the hood and looked at the glass bowl on the pump. The fuel was going down rapidly in the bowl. Looks like bad check valve in the pump. Problem is very few of these valves will hold the fuel when the pump gets a little pressure in it. Will get a fuel hose from Bob Shewman with the check valve built in the outlet fitting. Will report back in a few days after I install it. G.M.
 
Roger/Sacramento said:
....... Am thinking of drilling a small hole in the tops to fill the bowls manually. Then insert plug. Should work. :confused:
Click to expand...

This is a good idea. In carbs with a large, accessible bowl vent (e.g., 2GC), it's real easy to pour a little gas directly into the bowl before attempting to start. Works every time.
 
Just a little humor...many, many years ago my buddy restored a 1917 Cole V8....updraft carbs I believe.....and the funny part...the flat cylinder heads were equipped with a mini funnel over the pistons for priming. Just unscrew and pour in a little gas...maybe we should go back a hundred years. Robert
 
I drove my pickup three days ago and shut it down in the garage. I have 3/8 in spacers under the three carbs. Today I took the tops off of all three to see where the fuel level would be.......sure enough they were equally almost empty. Also the barrels where the power valve is and the main bowl were equally low. I doubt that the PV's all leak the same if al all. I am convinced that the gas is evaporating rapidly on it's own merit. :mad:
 
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