Drum tail light

John S

Senior Member
What is the best way to remove the wire connector from an original drum tail light? This thing looks like it's stuck for all time and I don't want to ruin it.
 
if you mean to remove the drum tail lite from the fender follow the wires where they clip under the body and there are quick disconnects. the light comes off with a foot or so of wire with it.....
 
if you mean to remove the drum tail lite from the fender follow the wires where they clip under the body and there are quick disconnects. the light comes off with a foot or so of wire with it.....

No, I'm talking about the connector on the light itself. It has a black bakelite cap on it and fits through the light base. It may be called a socket. Thanks anyhow, I got it.
 
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There should be a small round hole in the housing on the back above the connector, there is a spring loaded post on the connector that locks the connector to the housing.

Use something like Khrol and lightly spray the small hole; then using a small punch, push down and attempt to get the spring loaded connector to move. Might take a few days but once the spring loaded connector will depress you can then push out the complete bakelite unit.

Ron
 
The original wiring harness came from the light switch all the way to the socket on the drum taillight. Most repro harnesses make you splice the wires as Mitch mentioned. Sacremento Vintage Ford makes the correct harness for the drum taillights.

The wires push into the socket, and you should be able to pull them out. I'd spray some Kroil into the socket and use a thin ice pick or some such tool to try to pry a little to the side, just to loosen the spring loaded contacts a bit.

To remove the socket from the light body, you need to push the small brass peg in, then carefully twist and pull. Again, I'd spray some kroil on the metal body, as it's usually rusty around the socket.

I type too slow, Ron beat me to it.
 
Thanks, guys I got it out. The light base is original and I didn't want to mess it up. The socket was stuck in the rusted base but the pin was free and working. I got a re-pop socket with the car and I'll use it until I can find a good original.
 
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