dropped axle

fresnoron

Member
have 30 Tudor that I've installed 4" dropped axle, stock spindles and 40 juice brakes. what is the best way to lower the tie rod to clear the motor, wishbone and such. the bolt to bolt spread on spindle is 3" so later model steering arms won't fit. does anyone make dropped steering arms for this?
 
Get the tie rod to go between the frame and wishbone or change the spindles to 32-34 spindles and make a new tie rod and have it marked and slightly curved to clear the motor. The later is what I did but I'm running a little different setup. Use DOM tubing with a thick wall so it'll take the curve when you go have it slightly bent, use hemi joints on the ends with grease fittings.
 
can anyone tell me how to post on H.A.M.B. I've been all over that site and can't for the life of me figure out how to post a message
 
Your steering arms will start like this.

IMG_2439_zpsnjf2ztzj.jpg



Heat them up and grab them with a box wrench and flip em over! These pics just show the steering arm, but do all three the same.

IMG_2463_zps2wnggs52.jpg


Once you do this, your Pitman arm will not fit on there because it's meant to install from the top.

IMG_2512_zpsqghda2dz.jpg


So flip your steering arm on the steering box and you are good to go.

IMG_2514_zpsozmsgztn.jpg
 
have 30 Tudor that I've installed 4" dropped axle, stock spindles and 40 juice brakes. what is the best way to lower the tie rod to clear the motor, wishbone and such. the bolt to bolt spread on spindle is 3" so later model steering arms won't fit. does anyone make dropped steering arms for this?

Hey Ron,
Heat and bend !
There are several ways to 'skin this problem'. As others suggests those on the HAMB have usually been there and done that. Some are very creative.
Also, look into some hotrod supplies catalogues. These are good sources for parts to do what you seek:).
 
Are you not still hitting the tie rod against the crossmember before full lock? I cannot figure out a way to gain clearance w/o having to bend the tie rod which I'd rather not do for safety reasons.
 
Thanks Jason. this is how I figured would be best...it's amazing how fast these forums produce. it's hard to believe with all the model As out there someone hasn't capitalized on steering arms and such for 28 thru 31 spindles. seems everything is geared toward later model spindles. seems the earlier model spindles with removable steering arms would be an easy one to design dropped arms for....heck. if I had a couple hundred thou laying around I would do this. Ha again thanks Ron
 
I bought a new tie rod (cheap) had it goose necked and reinforced at each end and then added an adjuster in the middle for fine tuning toe-in
The adjusters are available on line but proved to be rubbish, so I had a new one made up and threads cut into the split centre of the track rod.
Keith
 
Thanks Jason. this is how I figured would be best...it's amazing how fast these forums produce. it's hard to believe with all the model As out there someone hasn't capitalized on steering arms and such for 28 thru 31 spindles. seems everything is geared toward later model spindles. seems the earlier model spindles with removable steering arms would be an easy one to design dropped arms for....heck. if I had a couple hundred thou laying around I would do this. Ha again thanks Ron

In general, most guys going with dropped axel and hydraulics will use a newer spindle as well, the round forty style or the squarish 46-48 Ford style. Aftermarket steering arm have been around forever, but still may need further modifications. The lower arms on these spindles matey be heated and dropped, or some folk just cut off the arm and install an aftermarket dropped arm to clear between tie rod and radius rod/wishbone.

On mine I used '46 spindles with a original axle dropped 2-1/2". I heated and dropped the tie rod arms to fit the tie rod below the wishbone. I used an aftermarket, plasma flame cut steering arm and I ground down the square edges. You might want to have any metal you heated and bent checked by magna fluxing.
 
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