Drop Axle Installation

several have mentioned possibly bending the steering arms on the spindles down to provide clearance. Has anyone tried extending the height of the tie rod/steering rod ends to provide the required clearance or does this create something than could be bent too easily.
 
Good point - I forgot about the 'stretched' versions . . . kind of like a piece of carnival taffy. FWIW, I've never liked the stretched look - and the amount of stretch I see on some axles makes me a bit nervous. When the cross-sectional dimensions are reduced, the overall strength of that part of the axle is reduced.

Does it present a problem . . . I don't really know . . . though I know its been done thousands of times before.

In my mind if Henry thought that "thinner" was better, he'd have done it - as he'd go an extra mile to save a few cents on materials! LOL

Stretch away boys . . . stretch away . . .
B&S


That's one place Henry didn't skimp...quality of materials. Henry was guilty of employing steels of exemplary quality throughout his cars. He just didn't skimp on steel quality. Have you ever seen one of these display axles that Ford produced for the 1936 (I believe) World's Fair? If these things were able to be twisted like this without breaking, they were damned sure OVER-built for daily use. DD


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several have mentioned possibly bending the steering arms on the spindles down to provide clearance. Has anyone tried extending the height of the tie rod/steering rod ends to provide the required clearance or does this create something than could be bent too easily.


I've seen those "kits" before. Never used.



But my opinion is your really adding play to a system that needs little/no play. Typically doing something like that in 4x4 world increases the odds of "deathwobble". Keep angles to a minimum, as said just my thoughts.


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There can be an issue with solid axle front ends shaking. Any play or movement in the components can lead to this condition. I have not used the dropped tie-rod ends, but I can see how they might provide enough flex to contribute to this. Any extension would not work because of the potential to flex. There are aftermarket bolt on spindle arms that can be used, but the tried and true method over the years has been to heat and bent the existing arms. If you are not confident in doing the job (takes the proper torch, etc) I would find someone that knows how to do it and has the equipment. Here is an example of bolt-on dropped spindle arms for 37-48 spindles. Keep in mind that thy require cutting of the original arms.

https://www.socalsac.com/SO-CAL-Front-Deep-Dropped-Spindle-Steering-Arms-p/socal001264.htm

Here are a couple of videos on dropping original arms: https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...619AE10107CD5B121D0B6&view=detail&FORM=VIREHT
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...07CD5B121D0B619AE10107CD5B121D0B6&FORM=VDQVAP
 

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The tried and true method over the years has been to heat and bent the existing arms. If you are not confident in doing the job (takes the proper torch, etc) I would find someone that knows how to do it and has the equipment.


Joes Speed Shop advertises that they will do the proper bending of your arms for a nominal fee if you send your spindles with your axle to be dropped. DD
 
Joes Speed Shop advertises that they will do the proper bending of your arms for a nominal fee if you send your spindles with your axle to be dropped. DD

Yep, in fact I am thinking about taking a couple of spindles down to have him do them for me. I'm just being lazy, but have wanted to get a pair done for some time now and never get around to it. Besides, he is interesting to visit! :)
 
There are two reasons to bend the arms; they first need to be heated at the kingpin boss twisted outward to permit full swing of the spindle (more so with an original axle that has been dropped, than the aftermarket axle in the pics), then the arm is reheated and bent down to drop the tie rod under the wishbone; once both are accomplished, the end needs be brought back up with the eye level in both planes. If you keep the eye the same distance from the backing plate the Ackermann should stay correct.
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