Driveability problem and mystery box

[TomC750]

Somewhere on the Barn there is a wiring diagram with a diode in it . To do what you want.

Goes from the solenoid to the coil, only activated when starting.

I am aware of the diode, a good idea for sure. No diagram needed. As it is, it starts quickly, as any 6 volter in good tune should.

 

[TomC750]

I decided to depart temporarily from my present path and check the float level in the carb (which I rebuilt previously) by taking the top off. It was decidedly low, but measured about where the instructions for my carb kit stated, depending on model which may not be correct, either 1 11/32 or 1 15/32 . 1/8 is quite a difference. I bought an Echlin kit from NAPA, $94 with discount! I have run into the following before: My carb is a Ford model 91-99, The kit is for a Holley AA-1, 2100 and 2110. Never heard of those model #'s except on rebuild kits. It had all of the correct parts, no rebuild mysteries. I then raised the float level, put the top back on, went for a ride. Performance seemed to be a bit better. What I need now is the correct float level for this carb. I may have it somewhere in all my publications , but in case I don't maybe one of you helpful guys does.

 

[ford38v8]

The float level gauge supplied with most carb kits is woefully inadequate. I don’t actually remember the correct measurement, because I fabricated my own simple gauge out of a coke can years ago.

 

[TomC750]

Thanks Alan, Interesting. I did find the dimension in an old Motors Manual. 1 11/32. I also ordered a new ballast resistor. The old one measured with an accurate instrument: .25 ohm cold, .6 ohm warm. does not seem right. Ordered new one.