Drive shaft lock pin

Thank you for the kind words V8COOPMAN.

A few people have reached out and received a piece of heat shrink. I ended up with 4ft of the stuff as the 1ft was not available due to covid. I still have more left and the offer still stands for any who want a piece.
 
Will D, Glad to spread the word on a solution to those pesky ends coming out if the pin breaks. I am pretty sure they will NEVER come through that sleeve. Good for you making the extra pieces available to someone who may have trouble finding it. I gave one to a Regional Group member who was assembling a rear end.
This is what this forum is for.
 
So...how many days' pounding does it take to peen over an original pin? I got a couple of OEM pins from Fred Willner (Southside Obsolete) and a couple of aftermarket ones from C&G. I decided to go with the originals -- and I think that was a mistake. After 5 or ten minutes of pounding (it's well backed-up) this is all I've gotten. Are the new pins a lot softer?


If I switch to the C&G pins, how much stick out should I leave when I trim 'em down? Thanks.
 

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If that end sticking out was heated dull cherry red (with the red and green wrench), it would have been peened over in short order. Something that small would have heated up really fast and not overheated anything else.
 
Detonator said:
So...how many days' pounding does it take to peen over an original pin? I got a couple of OEM pins from Fred Willner (Southside Obsolete) and a couple of aftermarket ones from C&G. I decided to go with the originals -- and I think that was a mistake. After 5 or ten minutes of pounding (it's well backed-up) this is all I've gotten. Are the new pins a lot softer?


If I switch to the C&G pins, how much stick out should I leave when I trim 'em down? Thanks.
Click to expand...

Does your C&G pins have a hollow tip? The ones I used did. I did not trim at all, just a few wacks with the hammer(see post #39). If using NOS, do as deuce_roadster suggested.
 
It's just a pin that holds a collar in place. If the splines are tight there is no reason other then decades of spline wear for a pin to break under normal flathead power. Removed a couple with the pin at the bottom, it still worked and ran before I even knew it. I'd guess having more parts flopping around would be fine. Heat shield makes sense. Probably hold up for quite a while at least keep the pin from dropping if it shears.
 
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The pinion is new — just put in 3.54s — and the coupler’s NOS so there’s no play at all. I think I’ll grind this one off and drive it back out, and use the softer C&G. Then shrink wrap it. I like that.
 
I want to warn folks against using the"safety lock pin" device. After just a few hundred miles I found this damage. Needless to say, I didn't put it back in. I used one of the hollow end pins, swagged it over and then used a piece of shrink tubing that I got from Will D (thank you!)

432732
 

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^^ The images above are not indicating a problem with the pin. They are indicating that you have too much play between the splined coupler and the pinion. It is that play that works the pin and eventually fatigues it to failure. If it was not the safety type, it would eventually break and the parts will fall out and make a noise. If that one broke, the clip will retain the parts in place.
Good tight fitting splines, and perfect alignment are crucial. Any slop or as can happen with shortened drivelines, misalignment will lead to spline wear and failed pins.
Mart.
 
If both of the pins are broken will the car still drive.. What kind of noise or vibration would you get with broken pins
 
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