Drive shaft lock pin
- Thread starter Will D
- Start date
deuce_roadster
Well-known member
I get industrial heat shrink made for electrical connections, it is about 1/8" thick, strong and impervious to gas, oil and solvents and just fits over the shaft and rivets. Heat with heat gun until glue is bubbling out each end and you are done. The ends cannot come out even if the pin breaks it stays in place and can still prevent the shaft from moving. This is a NOS driveshaft which I put Glyptol on and came as an assembly with new collar installed with the rear pin just started.
Electrical Supply places have this 3M ITCSN-1500-12 BLACK. 12 is 12" and is enough to do 3 rear ends.
This stuff is tough as you will see when you cut it. I posted another picture in my MISC folder
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Admiral
Well-known member
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I get industrial heat shrink made for electrical connections, it is about 1/8" thick, strong and impervious to gas, oil and solvents and just fits over the shaft and rivets. Heat with heat gun until glue is bubbling out each end and you are done. The ends cannot come out even if the pin breaks it stays in place and can still prevent the shaft from moving. This is a NOS driveshaft which I put Glyptol on and came as an assembly with new collar installed with the rear pin just started.
Electrical Supply places have this 3M ITCSN-1500-12 BLACK. 12 is 12" and is enough to do 3 rear ends.
This stuff is tough as you will see when you cut it. I posted another picture in my MISC folder
This is a BRILLIANT idea. Really clever!
deuce_roadster
Well-known member
Thanks, I didn't think regular heat shrink would work even if they made it big enough.
If you ever needed to remove it, probably would come off pretty easily with a sanding disk or grinder.
If you ever needed to remove it, probably would come off pretty easily with a sanding disk or grinder.
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
………...keeping a constant pre-load on the shaft toward the rear, in an attempt to prevent back and forth forces which task the fragile pin. BUT...I doubt that hokey coil spring has the guts to control the fore/aft forces realized by that d-shaft in REAL use. DD
Will D
Well-known member
[/IMG]
I get industrial heat shrink made for electrical connections, it is about 1/8" thick, strong and impervious to gas, oil and solvents and just fits over the shaft and rivets. Heat with heat gun until glue is bubbling out each end and you are done. The ends cannot come out even if the pin breaks it stays in place and can still prevent the shaft from moving. This is a NOS driveshaft which I put Glyptol on and came as an assembly with new collar installed with the rear pin just started.
Electrical Supply places have this 3M ITCSN-1500-12 BLACK. 12 is 12" and is enough to do 3 rear ends.
This stuff is tough as you will see when you cut it. I posted another picture in my MISC folder
That's a Great idea! Just ordered some from local electrical supply, will be here tomorrow. Not cheap tho, $17 cdn per foot.
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
Hey Mike (deuce_roadster)…..What a slick idea! I've run across and used that stuff on a handful of occasions during my tenure trying to keep the Houston ARTCC (Air Route Traffic Control Center) on the air and percolating, power distribution-wise. We've used it in sizes up to 4" diameter. Your vision to use this stuff for the purpose shown herein is pure genius. I personally can't think of a more-logical way to address this "lock pin" issue. Dick D (DD)
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deuce_roadster
Well-known member
Wow Dick, 4" you worked with some pretty bad-*** wires!
After wondering what that "machining sound" was coming from my torque tube back in 2000 when I got my roadster on the road, and seeing the broken pin sticking out of the drive line coupler making a groove on the inside of the torque tube, I have always looked for a way to corral those pins. Thanks for your kind words. Mike
After wondering what that "machining sound" was coming from my torque tube back in 2000 when I got my roadster on the road, and seeing the broken pin sticking out of the drive line coupler making a groove on the inside of the torque tube, I have always looked for a way to corral those pins. Thanks for your kind words. Mike
deuce_roadster
Well-known member
Will D, that's only a little over 5 bucks per rear end if you use all 3 you can get out of 1 foot.. If you only have 1 car you can sell or give the left over 2 pieces to someone working on a rear end.
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
A 3.7 Megawatt-capable facility. Lots of sparks necessary to keep roughly 90-100 or so air traffic controllers, their associated equipment, and 140-ish support staff happy during peak traffic times. DD
Brian
Well-known member
I love the heat shrink idea!
I'd seen those safety pin kits on eBay and used the concept...
I used a 'bandit' tool to apply a bandit band around the end of driveshaft [hollow] to retain the pin should it shear....the spring between the universal and speedo drive gear is a fuel pump spring that sits under the diaphragm. Perfect size.
And yes, the pin need to be simply mild steel, using a high tensile material will lead to premature failure.
I'd seen those safety pin kits on eBay and used the concept...
I used a 'bandit' tool to apply a bandit band around the end of driveshaft [hollow] to retain the pin should it shear....the spring between the universal and speedo drive gear is a fuel pump spring that sits under the diaphragm. Perfect size.
And yes, the pin
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
*** said:
Has nothing to do with a "torque tube". It's used on 1,000 volt direct-burial power cables, or in this case, a "DRIVE SHAFT" coupler. Anyone taking a moment or two to ACTUALLY do some research should clearly see that wall thickness is substantial at 0.170". Durometer is calculated at "SHORE 80A". Certainly NOTHING "hilarious" about this product, nor it's ability to contain these coupling pins. As deuce_roadster said, he'll likely need to use an abrasive disc on a grinder to ever remove the sleeve. This is probably the best "NEW" idea I've seen on FordBarn this year. DD
flatheadmurre
Well-known member
That highvoltage shrink sleeve is nothing like the heatshrink tubing you can buy in the normal store...a knife doesn´t cut it without a serious amount of force involved.
It should withstand someone jumping on a shovel without getting zapped.
Only downside is the pricetag...
It should withstand someone jumping on a shovel without getting zapped.
Only downside is the pricetag...
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
The "Champ Items" 'SAFETY' Pin Kits are all over eBay for $10, with a couple even going at $9-ish. That $17 chunk of this stuff DIVIDED by three sounds like a pretty economical deal, especially when looking at the clean and effective results with using the shrink-sleeve. This shrink material can be found at most CONTRACTORs' electrical supply outlets. But what do I know? DD
Will D
Well-known member
Was totally over thinking the lock pin. A few blows with a hammer mushroomed the hollow end, 1/8" solid still protruding from the coupler. A few more blows formed a perfect head while seating it tight against the coupler. Slipped on the heat shrink, a little heat and it's good to go. Although the industrial heat shrink may not be a factory/ original repair method, I think it falls between the lines of juice breaks or seat belts on something that never had them. If it prevents potential issues, why the heck not?
Thanks again Deuce for the tip. If anyone would like a piece of this industrial heat shrink and can't find it locally, send me a PM. Just pay the shipping and it's yours.
Thanks again Deuce for the tip. If anyone would like a piece of this industrial heat shrink and can't find it locally, send me a PM. Just pay the shipping and it's yours.
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