Drive shaft lock pin
- Thread starter Will D
- Start date
19Fordy
Well-known member
First, buy a couple of pins in case you "booger" one up.
I don't know that exact answer but, I do recall that the replacement I bought was smaller in dia. than the hole. That surprised me as I thought it would be an interference fit. Therefore, I assume that the OEM pin was placed in the hole and swedged into place like a hot steel rivet.
I know it seems crazy but used I decided to use a 1/4-28 grade 8 bol. t I covered the shank with a thin coat of solder and pounded it into position. The excess solder was sheared off as it when into position. Then I used Locktite on the nut and punched the threads. That was 3 years ago,
So far , so good.
If I had to do it over I would heat the replacement rivet hot enough so that I could place it in the hole and swedge it to "fill" the hole and then form the head with a ball peen hammer or a rivet set.
If I had a lathe I would consider turning down a piece if steel just a little oversize and then hammer it into position and form the head.
I am sure others have some excellent answers instead of what I did.
I don't know that exact answer but, I do recall that the replacement I bought was smaller in dia. than the hole. That surprised me as I thought it would be an interference fit. Therefore, I assume that the OEM pin was placed in the hole and swedged into place like a hot steel rivet.
I know it seems crazy but used I decided to use a 1/4-28 grade 8 bol. t I covered the shank with a thin coat of solder and pounded it into position. The excess solder was sheared off as it when into position. Then I used Locktite on the nut and punched the threads. That was 3 years ago,
So far , so good.
If I had to do it over I would heat the replacement rivet hot enough so that I could place it in the hole and swedge it to "fill" the hole and then form the head with a ball peen hammer or a rivet set.
If I had a lathe I would consider turning down a piece if steel just a little oversize and then hammer it into position and form the head.
I am sure others have some excellent answers instead of what I did.
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Tinker
Well-known member
You peen it to set usually. There should be no movement around the turning shaft splines. But yet most are sitting in the housing when you open it up after 80 yrs. Mine was not. Install one. drive it and 10 yrs from now when you have to pull it apart, then... Lot of pins sheared i guess, collar still there.
All the force is put on the connecting splines, not on the collar placement. Just pinned in place. A bolt will work if you feel confident it'll stay bolted.
All the force is put on the connecting splines, not on the collar placement. Just pinned in place. A bolt will work if you feel confident it'll stay bolted.
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V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
flatheadmurre
Well-known member
If the splines are worn it´s real tough to get anything to last...the pins get sheared right off and falls out...that´s why the "safety" pins with a springclamp to keep parts from ending up between gears was invented.
If the spline is nice and tight it will work fine with a bolt or rivet...
And the original rivets was solid ?? that looks like a hollow rivet that should be installed like a brakeshoe rivet....
If the spline is nice and tight it will work fine with a bolt or rivet...
And the original rivets was solid ?? that looks like a hollow rivet that should be installed like a brakeshoe rivet....
Mart
Well-known member
I use a soft steel pin and then put a hose clamp over it in case it breaks. I actually put 3 hose clamps on 120 degrees out to maintain balance. My version of the safety clip Murre describes above.
I once used an Allen bolt (good grade steel) and self locking nut. That snapped and made an unholy racket. So now use the method I described above.
I make it sound like I do this all the time, that isn't so. The hose clamps are on my roadster. The coupe and pickup haven't been disturbed.
I think what is more important is that the splines on the shafts and coupler are a good tight fit without any slop. It's the play that fatigues the pins.
In a modified (shortened) setup the alignment is critical. Any misalignment will cause wear in the splines and subsequent pin failure.
That's a long answer to a short question.
Mart.
I once used an Allen bolt (good grade steel) and self locking nut. That snapped and made an unholy racket. So now use the method I described above.
I make it sound like I do this all the time, that isn't so. The hose clamps are on my roadster. The coupe and pickup haven't been disturbed.
I think what is more important is that the splines on the shafts and coupler are a good tight fit without any slop. It's the play that fatigues the pins.
In a modified (shortened) setup the alignment is critical. Any misalignment will cause wear in the splines and subsequent pin failure.
That's a long answer to a short question.
Mart.
Will D
Well-known member
The pin is solid except for the last 1/4 inch. When inserted into the coupler the solid portion extends just past the coupler. This is why I was thinking there may be a special rivet punch that would work best to mushroom the hollow tip.
Was thinking using a bolt would throw it off balance.
The coupler/splines are a nice snug fit.
Newc
Well-known member
Loctite co. makes a product for loose splines. It is used industrially and on driveshaft splines [large trucks] Amazon has it but can not ship it so I had to get it from Fastenal. There is a cleaner and a primer necessary. I used it on a '37 assembly-not on the road yet. for a pin we turned down a bolt to .255 and supported the opposite side of 'pin' with an anvil so as not to damage the pinion bearings by pounding. I got the Loctite info here from an old post. Newc
Talkwrench
Well-known member
Yes its just the last bit thats hollow in the pin. All I did was have a solid piece of steel on the other side and peened it over with a ball peen hammer. But you have to be careful not to hit it too many times , you'll flatten it too thin and it'll be those little bits that will break of for sure. I had my shaft out [?] .. just recently and after years the pins were still ok , I did notice I had a very tiny amount of movement in the spline.
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
Here’s the “safety pin”if anyone’s wondering.
I took a picture of it out of the box, but the picture will not load.
Here it is! DD
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swanwaco32
Senior Member
It needs to be a soft pin and is only there to keep the drive shaft from moving for and aft. A hard bolt will break if the splines are worn and then it will be a problem. I have a small anvil and with the rear end on the floor use it to peen the rivet. Also grease the splines to prevent wear before assembly.
flatheadmurre
Well-known member
Spring is between u-joint and speedogear pushing driveshaft down towards rearend.