drive methods to save bands

W

wbs

Senior Member
1. hello- i would like some basic info on driving techniques to save bands- in reading old posts, it looks like the driver should always push the pedals hard? or else get slipping band , very bad for band wear? the exception is the brake which the driver should pump when slowing the car [to allow oil to get to band?

2. are the bands being oiled by some kind of oil slinger when they are not in use? for example if the car is being driven in low, are the brake and reverse bands being splashed with oil but the low is not being oiled? when the car is idling, are all bands being oiled?
thank you
 
I dont know about anyone else but this is how i do it, i use the cotton bands and i dont seem to have any trouble with them. I like to pump the pedals not just slam them down unless its an emergency. That way the oil always gets in between the bands and the drum during the stopping process. If you look and drive ahead most of the breaking can be done with the reverse pedal by slowly pumping it, then the last 15 feet can be done with the break pedal. Sounds weird i know but it works for me at least.
 
Your probably going to get many different responses on this issue. I believe each individual has thier own way of driving a model "T". I'll try and explain my way I drive mine. Going forward I slowly ease the low speed pedal down until I feel the car slightly moving, at that point I advance the pedal right down as far as it will go. My reasoning is this, there really isn't anything wrong with a little slipping as long as you do not let the band's and drums get overheated. Everybody gets some amount of slipping, I don't care who you are. For backing up I pretty much try and do the same thing, although to be honest I do slip the band much more in reverse than forward. Simply because I back my car into my garage. Maybe it's just my driving but reverse is my "slip" spot. As far as braking you really have to be cautious not to overheat the brake drum. Yes I have had situations that I've pumped the brake in an attempt to keep the drum from getting hot. Most times I try and plan my stopping better than that, I will even at times coast to slow down and lightly brake to completely stop the vehicle. My dad will use the reverse for stopping quite often, he tells me that was common back in the day. Me, I cat quite grasp that idea. Makes me feel like I might rip up the transmission.
Yes the band's are fed oil through a splash system. If you ever have the cover off the hogs head go ahead and start your engine. Watch the oil get thrown up and onto the band's and drums. This will surely help you better understand how the system works. Keep in mind while the band you are useing is pulled tight against the drum, it is not receiving much if any oil. And that's OK, because you are holding that particular drum from any movement. Yes the band's do retain oil, but the whole purpose of the band is to grasp or hold to prevent the drum from turning. The other two bands, not being used are indeed recieving oil.I believe it's a great idea to use the strainer or oil filter. It fits right under the hogs head inspection cover, on top of the transmission. It catches all the unwanted particles within the oil. Very good investment if you are not already running one.
 
Basically your first post is correct, try to avoid unnecessary slippage.
And they are oiled by the same splashing of oil the flywheel gives the rest of the engine, basically.
 
The low band will wear really fast if you have a cotton or wood band and the low speed adjustment is so loose it won't lock the drum. If you have kevlar the risk the drum will heat up until it cracks increases even more when slipping the band, but if you're lucky tightening the band is enough. It's best to open the inspection lid to see how much is left of the band(s).

When starting, press down the foot firm to lock the low drum as soon as possible without making any jerks or killing the engine. If you have a medium heavy T and std rear axle gears you don't need much gas for taking off - experiment with less advanced spark and low rpms, you can minimize band wear with your driving technique. Then as soon as the car is rolling, you can increase throttle (and pull down the timing lever if retarded)

The same goes for the reverse, but it's often hard to avoid slipping that one, since it's used for such a short move - not much driving with the reverse fully pressed down usually. Be sure to hold the steering wheel tight if ever going fast in reverse - the steering isn't as stabile as in more modern cars when driving in reverse and may flip..

The brake must be slipping some - but you can minimize it by closing the throttle in time before approaching a stop and only use the brake for the last mphs. Lifting the brake foot at intervals to let in oil is also a good technique, but never get you in a situation where you have to use the brake for long periods - if you go down a steep mountain road where you would have needed low gear to get up, then you should go down in low gear with the throttle closed to keep the speed down. Retarding the spark may increase the engine braking.

With low or reverse you don't need to lift the foot to let in oil - they're supposed to be locked firm when used and doesn't need any oil when in use.

Always keep the emergency brake in good working order and be ready to use it - if needed. A 09-25 may need accessory lined shoes. And grease seals in the rear axle ;)
 
Please do not use the reverse for stopping. It has the thinnest web of all of them and the is very prone to cracking in the web area. Un-cracked original reverse drums are getting to be few and far in between and new ones are not cheap.
 
thank you to all who replied- i've learned a ton of knowledge and will use it in my driving- i just got the car running recently afr a few years
 
My 2 cents: Starting off you'll be slipping the low band a bit because just like a clutch you can't fully engage it until you begin to move. Once moving you advance the gas and step down on the low pedal fully engaging it. Takes practice just like a standard shift clutch does. Reverse: I ALWAYS have the hand brake at the vertical position (free neutral) when reversing. Allows you to concentrate on the reverse & brake pedals fully. It is highly recommended not to use the reverse pedal for stopping as it is the thinnest drum, (it was expected to get the least use) and will quickly fail if abused in this manor. Reverse too will involve some slipping. Can't be helped as it's the only way to get moving without stalling. Braking should, with practice, be done according to the old saying "drive it like it has no brakes". The car is slowed in high by pulling back the throttle. Kind of compression braking with the pedal used to fully stop the car at a low speed. Again some can't be helped slipping is involved. The only thing I'm not sure about is the usage of low gear on a very long pull. Up a steep hill for instance. I've heard you should come off the pedal at intervals to oil/cool the band/drum. Can't swear to it though. Point is there's going to be wear even if you're the greatest T driver on earth. Oiling of just about everything inside the engine/trans happens whenever the motor is running. I believe Youtube has a video of a T running with a plexiglass cover on the trans access plate. The flood of oil is surprising. I have and recommend using the trans screen that's sold. It has 3 holes in it situated just over each band and some say they increase band oiling. Can't swear to that either but the screen/magnet portion is a generally a good thing.
 
In low the idea is when fully engaged the drum should not turn, if it's not turning there should be no friction to generate heat. There would still be oil coming down over it. While driving at long distances in low, like up hill, the band should clamp tight. When starting out in low or parades there will be some slipping.
In braking, until the car is at a complete stop, the drum is still turning so heat is being generated, then pumping the pedal allows oil to cool the band and drum. Once the car is at a complete stop, the drum is no longer turning so no heat. The brake drum is connected to the rear wheels, if they are turning so is the drum. In neutral, the brake drum is disconnected from the engine/transmission.
I have tried locking the reverse drum with the band, even at idle, I don't want to go that fast with the T steering, so I too let the band slip some.
Remember, go down the hill in the same gear you went up with throttle down and spark retarded, gives more compression braking (you should go up the hill with spark retarded too).
 
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There is nothing wrong with Model "T" brakes as long as the only car on the road is another Model "T"! I put disc brakes on the rear of my "T" and they work great. I've had too many yahoos pass and then slow down to make a turn in front of me. I'd rather be a realist than a dead purist.
A. Dinsmore, Ontario
:)
 
Even with just the stock transmission brake it's easy to lock the rear wheels up. Locking the rear wheels up IS NOT stopping! 30" or 21" wheels don't have much road contact so they slide real easy once locked up on pavement, even dry, think ice! Best advice is to drive like you have no brakes and pay attention to what's going on ahead of your car.
 
all good answers stuff the pedal don't nurse it, plan your stops, don't look in the
mirror, high chance they are on a stupid phone or flip em the twig. Slowing down
use the engine STAY back or a quick stop also nurse the emerg. brake and foot
brake. remember you only have two wheel braking and using the trans. brake
you now have one wheel brake and icy you will spin around in a heartbeat..
Remember Only fools tailgate. Keep in mind with 50+tons on the back (truck) you start
slowing down way back regardless of the idiot behind you, they can't stop on a dime
either.....One more braking; jab it don't ride it. riding causes heat. I use scandinavion 5 yrs never adjusted or touched it...
cotton
 
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