Drag Link Ends?

J

jeepguy1948

Well-known member
Can someone explain to me why the 2 ends of the Drag Link are different? I cannot figure it out. I purchased an adjustable drag link but it has 2 ends that are the same the “Front” style. That doesn’t seem right.
 
They should be opposite threads so that when the rod is turned, it will either get "shorter" or "longer" because of the left-hand and right-hand threads inside the two drag link ends. This is the same principle used in the tie rod for setting the toe-in.
Marshall
 
I understand how it works, I’m asking why the “Front” has the spring on the inner side and the rear has the spring outside of the ball?
 
jeepguy1948 said:
I understand how it works, I’m asking why the “Front” has the spring on the inner side and the rear has the spring outside of the ball?
Click to expand...

Good question. That is a design change that Ford made (in Oct. ‘28, I think — going from memory). It was something to do with interference at the front end with the brake actuator.

The installation of the spring and ball was always different at each end of the drag link. Ford really just changed which end would be ball first and which end would be spring first.
 
ive wonder that too.
the thing i think of is. the springs are pushing in the same direction to which may help the length stay consistent.

but i really don't know , just a guess.
 
Kinda late reply; typed it out; but didn't click post button.

I think what jeepguy1948 is referring to is that on a fixed end drag link, the spring on the ball stud is toward the shaft on one end and toward the adjuster on the other.

On adjustable drag links matching tie rod ends are used so spring arrangements are the same.

Probably some not too obvious engineering reason fixed drag links were made that way; but they built them that way on a lot of stuff besides Fords.

Can't see that it will make a difference.
 
The drag link wasn't changed. It was just flipped end for end. The problem was interference with the clearance on the front of the assembly. Flipping it gave more clearance.
 
Thanks to all for your responses, very helpful. I won’t worry about it anymore I’ll just run it and forget about it.
 
Why do you need an adjustable drag link? Is your steering non-original in other areas or your frame bent - or your spindle arms somehow bent?

It's always interesting to bring together parts from varying assemblies - and find the doodlebug was subject to some SEVERE use.

Joe K
 
I think the problem is the steering gear is adjusted and the play is taken out in the centered position and when using the shortened pitman arm the gear is not in the centered position when driving down the road. You need the adjustable drag link to correct this. Clear as mud?
 
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