Door Lock Removal

30six said:
John:
Thanks and looking forward to how sleeves are held in door. Any replacment sleeves out there if mine is destroyed in removal process???
Click to expand...

I have no idea if those lock cylinder mounting tubes/sleeves are available from any of the known old Ford parts suppliers. Maybe someone else will know and respond. From the looks of my '35 door, I think a tube/sleeve could be fabricated and soldered/brazed back into place. JMO
 
As I said, I own a sleeve. If yours fails to survive the surgery, and IF I can locate the piece, it is yours. I am the world's least organized hoarder of Fordstuff, so second "if" is a biggy.
 
JM 35 Sedan said:
OK as promised, here are some pictures and information on the lock cylinder mounting area inside a '35 tudor sedan door. I have no idea if this would be the same as or similar to a forty Ford door. The lock cylinder mount is a formed sheet metal tube that appears to be soldered/brazed to a separate sheet metal plate that is spot welded to the inner surface of the outer door skin. This separate sheet metal plate is about 6-7" long and about 2-3" wide. It provides extra reinforcing strength for mounting the door handle and the cylinder lock. The D shaped nuts for the door handle screws are also soldered/brazed to this plate. The lock cylinder mounting tube also has a small threaded tube attached to it's side for the set screw that holds the lock cylinder in place. Hopefully all of this makes some sense and is a little bit clearer than mud ;).
Click to expand...
Thanks John for your effort.I'm going to have to study your pictures,and compare them to my 40 conv.I'm going to have to strip the door down to see if I can replace the sleeves.Bob Drake offers an adapter for the left door cylinder,and may have them for the coupe he's building.
 
Suddenly, I realize that I am talking with at least two people, one with a '35 and one with a '40, in fear for their sleeves. Thought it was one...
So, I own one sleeve and am not sure where it is here in the world's largest indoor library/junkyard...
You guys try to get the locks out, and post developments. I hope no more than one of you needs a sleeve...will look for mine when need becomes certain.
If mine cannot be found, I do know that Drake has finished major door stampings and lots of door hardware for his repro body project; maybe he can supply sleeves.
 
Bruce Lancaster said:
Suddenly, I realize that I am talking with at least two people, one with a '35 and one with a '40, in fear for their sleeves. Thought it was one...
So, I own one sleeve and am not sure where it is here in the world's largest indoor library/junkyard...
You guys try to get the locks out, and post developments. I hope no more than one of you needs a sleeve...will look for mine when need becomes certain.
If mine cannot be found, I do know that Drake has finished major door stampings and lots of door hardware for his repro body project; maybe he can supply sleeves.
Click to expand...
Bruce I need a sleeve,mine is ruined.I'll contact Bob Drake in the morning.I'll let you know.Thanks
 
If you can't find one, one could possibly be repaired using the closest size chrome moly aircraft type steel tubing cut to proper length and machined out to fit the lock cylinder & set screw. Aircraft tubing is available in six different wall thicknesses in sizes from 7/16" thru 2" and each successive size smaller will fit inside the next larger size with the correct wall thickness in consideration. Wall thicknesses for 3/4" 4130N tube for example are .035", .049", .058", .065", .095", .125", and .156"

This would at least give you an option.

Kerby
 
Will try to find my replacement sleeve.
Another thought for a source of a make-do: Cheap indoor door knob kit. Part of this is a flange with D-shaped tube welded or crimped to it...take that, open and/or cut away the joint in the D tube, insert a piece of rod and pound that tube round enough to grip the cylinder. Flange allows attachment to inner door, tube id thick enough to drill&tap for # 10 screw...
 
I looked in the opening to reach the set screw to remove the existing door lock.
It has been destroyed so bad I can’t get a screw driver or hex head tool to move it. Any been successful at drilling the set screw out. I have a new lock to install.
Thanks.
Dick 40 Ford coup
 
rgmcspadden said:
I looked in the opening to reach the set screw to remove the existing door lock.
It has been destroyed so bad I can’t get a screw driver or hex head tool to move it. Any been successful at drilling the set screw out. I have a new lock to install.
Thanks.
Dick 40 Ford coup
Click to expand...

Good luck on trying to drill it out. I tried every type of drill available to drill one out and finally gave up.
 
I know this was all posted some time ago but I'm needing help. I don't have much left of a set screw only partial half. I need to remove the lock so do I grind this part of the screw flat and then attempt to drill out the screw? This is on a 37 pickup.
Thanks for your help.
Bill
 
I had a similar experience with my 39, half of set screw broke off. I did not try to grind it flat but that would make it easier to center a drill. I did manage to drill the bugger out but I wasn't proud of it. Tapped the hole for the next size screw and was able to reassemble.
 
Start with a small drill bit after center punching. It will be hard to drill out without some damage to the threads in the tube. Maybe you will get lucky and not have to curse too much.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top