Door Lock Removal

[30six]

Is there a special tool to remove the screw that holds door lock cylinder on 1936 in place?

I can see a hex head with hole in center through opening in pilar, but it looks too tight of space to get into opening and onto head.

I've seen older post about door lock removal, but cannot locate them.

Thanks!

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

The door locks in my 35's are held in place by slotted head set screws. I have used allen head set screw in place of the slotted head in some cases. Not sure how you could have a hex head screw in yours.

 

[Bruce Lancaster]

It should be a #10 set screw, don't remember thread count; pretty sure in '36 it originally had a slotted end for a screwdriver, some time after 1936 Ford switched to an allen head there.

 

[30six]

Here is photo of what is in opening. No slotted or set screw.
I took off door latch which was a challenge with lock cylinder in place.
I can see the shaft going to side of lock cylinder.

Does the set screw directly into side of lock cylinder?
Does the cylinder fit into a sleeve or directly into opening in door?
Any other way to remove lock?? Would a locksmith be able to key it while in door?

Thanks!

 

[Bruce Lancaster]

The set screw goes through a little sheetmetal cage partially surrounding the lock cylinder and works as a set screw, as I remember?
Not sure what I am seeing there, but could that just be a corroded allen screw? The Allen wrench size is quite small, as it is let into the threaded shaft of the set screw with no head at all on original Ford ones.
If yours is allen headed rather than slotted, it is from a later early Ford, 1940's I think.

 

[4dFord/SC]

The set screw goes through a little sheetmetal cage partially surrounding the lock cylinder and works as a set screw, as I remember?
Not sure what I am seeing there, but could that just be a corroded allen screw? The Allen wrench size is quite small, as it is let into the threaded shaft of the set screw with no head at all on original Ford ones.
If yours is allen headed rather than slotted, it is from a later early Ford, 1940's I think.

I recently had to replace the door lock in my '40, and it had an Allen screw, like Bruce describes. It was so corroded we ended up drilling it out and replacing it with a slot head screw. FYI, those Allen screws were made from some tough stuff

 

[Randy in ca]

Have a '35 door in the garage and your post got me curious, so I took a look and snapped a couple of pictures. It looks to me like you don't have a set screw in place - the screw threads into a protrusion and it looks to me like that's all that's there in your picture. Stick something in the hole and see what's there - the set screw on mine is about 3/4" long, so unless your's has been broken off or the hole is full of gunk something should go in that far. Even if there's no set screw there the cylinder can be tough to get out - it does slide into a sleeve and the set screw does go against the side of the lock cylinder - it doesn't take much rust or dirt to really glue it in there. Use a good lubricant and wiggle it around, pry gently, etc.
I hope there's no screw remnants still in there. Good luck.

 

[TerryOH]

from the factory it should be a slotted head 10-32 pointed set screw which is about 1" long 89658-S7. Ford used the same set screw from 32 past 1940. all your going to see in the hole is the slot since the set screw is not long enought to be proud of the threaded hole. If all else fails to get it out there is only one way I am aware of and that is to heat the threaded section red hot inside the door. You want to be careful not to burn or blister the paint off the door skin. The slotted head of the set screw is easially broken off so make sure NOT to use a lot of force on it. best of luck

 

[30six]

Randy: Thanks for photos. Your photo shows same part as in my door, but mine does not have a screw in opening. I'll try and see if part is broken off in hole.
When I had door latch off it looked like someone glued the lock cylinder in sleeve. It had some yellow dried crud around cylinder and sleeve. I know this should be easy, but everytime I try something who ever had car long before me fixed as he thought and not how it shpuld have been....

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

I wound up doing the same thing that Randy in CA did. I went out in the garage last night and took some pictures of two different '35 doors. One had a slotted head set screw and the other had an allen head set screw. The two screws were slightly different in length (0.87" vs 0.81"). Both have 10-32 threads and with what I call a "cup point" at the end that goes against the lock cylinder.

 

[Bruce Lancaster]

"It had some yellow dried crud around cylinder and sleeve..."
That could easily be 3M superduper grade rubber adhesive...I believe you can get a solvent made just for that.

 

[Bruce Lancaster]

PS...the counter guy at the auto supply will know that particular adhesive as "gorilla snot"!

 

[rotorwrench]

Where's the carbon tetra chloride when you need it.

 

[Milt/Las Vegas]

I'm going to have to replace all or part of the sleeves that hold the set screw and the lock cylinder in my 40 conv.Are the sleeves welded in?

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

Milt, I may be able to look at some of my '35 doors that are completely stripped down and determine how those sleeves are held in place. Stay tuned for more info to come later...............

 

[Milt/Las Vegas]

Milt, I may be able to look at some of my '35 doors that are completely stripped down and determine how those sleeves are held in place. Stay tuned for more info to come later...............

Thanks JM

 

[30six]

John:
Thanks and looking forward to how sleeves are held in door. Any replacment sleeves out there if mine is destroyed in removal process???

 

[Milt/Las Vegas]

Thanks John,I'm also looking forward to how sleeves are held into the door.

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

OK as promised, here are some pictures and information on the lock cylinder mounting area inside a '35 tudor sedan door. I have no idea if this would be the same as or similar to a forty Ford door. The lock cylinder mount is a formed sheet metal tube that appears to be soldered/brazed to a separate sheet metal plate that is spot welded to the inner surface of the outer door skin. This separate sheet metal plate is about 6-7" long and about 2-3" wide. It provides extra reinforcing strength for mounting the door handle and the cylinder lock. The D shaped nuts for the door handle screws are also soldered/brazed to this plate. The lock cylinder mounting tube also has a small threaded tube attached to it's side for the set screw that holds the lock cylinder in place. Hopefully all of this makes some sense and is a little bit clearer than mud .

 

[Bruce Lancaster]

Two things on the cylinder holder tin: Bob Drake may well be reproducing it as part of their '40 body project, I know a lot of door stuff is complete on that.
And it was once available as a replacement part, I think only as a repair helper from the aftermarket. Same sort of source as the places that supply clips and widgets to body shops. I actually have a new one of those...not sure if I could find the thing or not if need arises. Maybe.