Door Latch Sticking

Steves46

Steves46

Well-known member
Hello all. I recently installed a passenger side door latch on I purchased from Snyders on my 30 coupe. Upon tightening-down the latch, it wants to stick. Has anyone else had this issue with their latches? I sent an e-mail to them today so I will see if possibly I got one manufactured on a Friday afternoon.
 
Not with new Synders latch but with an original latch, try it with the screws a turn looser than tight, I think I used internal star washers under the head of the screws and not over tightening the screws, lock tight on the threads would work better if loosening does the job
 
Will try it again for I attempted this already. The major problem is that the door seemed latched it actually came open when I was driving. Very alarming. I think I will try and rebuild my original latch.
 
I will double check the striker but not sure how to tell if it is worn. however everything was fine until the spring broke in the original latch. Now that I know there are spring kits, I will try to replace them.
 
Ok, is this for a coupe/tudor/30-31PU or for a roadster/4door phaeton.


If for a roadster and Taiwan... junk. If US I likely made it and call me (yes despite speaking english with an american accent i do attempt technical support).


If for a coupe/tudor/30-31PU the spring that holds tension on the latch "paddle" has to be slipped inside the door (and per-tensioned) If it does not get slipped inside the door it gets crushed between the latch and the door, does not have the proper tension, and often has symptoms similar to what you noted.
 
I replaced the springs in my door latches a few weeks ago and it went very well. I did have a similar issue with the passengers dour handle where everything worked great but the handle wouldn’t spring back when I tighten the handle door screws. I ended up shaving approximately 1/8” off the end and it worked perfectly. This was an aftermarket door handle. I’ve also seen the square opening in the door latch get off center after the springs get replaced so the handle gets tight as well. You can bend them enough to get the latch opening to center in the door handle hole and it will go in straight and not bind up.

Wally
 
A few years ago I attempted to install a couple of REPRO door latches in a 29 Sport Coupe.

I gave up and repaired the originals with rebuild kits and some welding.

The problem I saw was that the four "counter sunk" mounting screw holes in the door latch plates did not lineup with holes in the doors.

Two of the holes were close to fitting, but the other two were slightly off and as soon as these were tightened the latches starting "binding up" when the plate was twisted.

As a result the plates were slightly bent (twisted) when the counter sunk screws were tightened.

I tried 3 or 4 new repro latches from the parts bin and all were the same.
 
Last edited:
Benson said:
but the other two were slightly off and as soon as these were tightened the latches starting "binding up" when the plate was twisted.

As a result the plates were slightly bent (twisted) when the counter sunk screws were tightened.

I tried 3 or 4 new repro latches from the parts bin and all were the same.
Click to expand...

Sadly, most repro parts are made overseas where metric dimensions are used to manufacture the parts. In converting to decimal dimensions, the manufacturer misses the location of holes many times.
 
I ended up with some filing, and a washer as a shim on one corner. But boy do they close nice . Should have changed them out a long time ago!
 
Update: changed the springs on my original latch and what a difference. All good now. Should have done this in the first place. Will be returning the repo latch to Snyder’s.
 
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