Door glass lower stop

[Stephenorf]

My driver's side door glass fell into the door. Upon disassembly, I noticed this rusty bracket and removed them. At first I thought it was two brackets. But looking at the exploded diagram, it looks like they are both from the same bracket (21578). I cannot find a new or used one anywhere. So it looks like I'll need to fabricate my own.

I think this broken/missing bracket is why the glass crashed all the way to the bottom of the door. Now my driver's side door glass is all busted up and cracked.

 

[paul2748]

Remove the one from the other side (hopefully in better condition) so you can duplicate it.


Or, if you have the # 23240 part out, you can measure the picture against the actual and make the broken part using the same ratio. Assuming everything is the same scale.

 

[miker98038]

Couple layers of good shrink sleeve will make the padding. A vice and a hammer will make the bracket. Welcome to old cars. Common in Seattle from 60+ years of rain running down.

Look close when you order door glass. I don’t know what make and model you have, but the birds came with both grey and green tint. Look at a piece of white paint thru the glass, that’s how you see the difference.

 

[Stephenorf]

Thanks for all the tips. I was able to use the exploded view to get a good idea of the shape of the bracket. Using the remains of the rusted parts still on the car plus the location of the window in the lowered position, I was able to get enough data to fabricate a "new and improved" bracket. If you're interested in my process, read on....

I had some 1" x 1/4" galvanized bar stock handy so I used it to form the bracket.

I used a strand of copper wire from some leftover Romex to create an outline of where I think the bracket probably used to be in the door.

Using the wire as a guide, I transferred the outline to the steel bar marking the overall length as well as where I thought the bends need to be and where the holes will be drilled and tapped to accept the mounting hardware.

It's 1/4" stock. A 5/16" 24 tap takes a 17/64 drill bit to make the right size hole for the threads.

I wondered if the 1/4" bar was thick enough to tap and hold a bolt. Seems sturdy enough.

Here's the finished product. I used my vice and a body hammer to create the contours. I made sure the mounting holes were spaced 3 5/8" apart, and that the top of he bracket was at a 90 degree angle to the door shell when mounted.

Fits pretty good. I'll pick up some Plasti Dip and make sure there's a good think layer of "rubber" on the landing zone before I finish torquing the bracket to the door.

 

[miker98038]

Nice work. Probably better than the original. I hadn’t thought of the plasti dip. Haven’t used it in years, but I’ve still got the pliers I tested it on. Has to be 50 years ago.

FWIW, a light brushing with a brass brush, then POR15 with a brush is what I used inside the bottom of the doors. Made sure not to plug the drain holes.

 

[evintho]

Very nice job!

 

[dmsfrr]

Looks good!

 

[Stephenorf]

Just to close out this thread. I decided to use a piece of rubber stock I had on hand instead of the Plasti Dip. I just glued the rubber strip to the top of the stop. The glass stops nicely now, and the rubber ensures there's no rattle or squeak while driving or idling with the window in the down position.