On 28/29 cars Coupe & Tudor Sedan doord are all the same. Fordor and Cabriolet doors differ greatly since the belt rail moldings are rounded instead of flat but the front hinge mechanisms are also totally different. So, as long as you have doors that match in hinges & contour of the belt rail, they are correct. There may be a problem with the gap related to replacing the subrails but, if the gap is uniform from top to bottom on both doors, I kinda doubt that. The next issue is wear on both the latch mechanisms and the strikers. Start with the easy part. Original strikers, after 90 years, have enough wear to cause the situation you have where the doors open going around a turn. But, they usually wear evenly from top to bottom, so the amount of wear is hard to judge. And, given that they are adjustable, most of us think that will remedy any wear that exists. However, they were not made adjustable to deal with 90 years of wear. They were made adjustable to provide optimum engagement with latches that were not likewise worn from 90 years of opening and closing. Rather than worrying about the gap, I'd study wear in both the strikers and latch mechanisms and act accordingly from there. Look for rounded off edges on the strikers. Shake the "flapper" bar on the latches to check for wear in the pins that hold them in place (and the tabs that hold the pins into the latch). The internal springs in the latch mechanisms take a beating. They could possibly use replacement. Sounds like your latches & strikers secure the door in place OK ................... until you round a corner and the body twists. In this case, OK is only good enough to keep the doors closed while going down the road. If you think about the fact that the original doors were badly rusted and the subrails needed replacement, that says a lot about the overall condition of the car to suggest that the condition of a relatively small item like the striker plate might call for some further study. Start there.
Good luck. Bob Bader
