Dogbone shock links

Doug in NJ

Well-known member
Hello,

I got my rebuilt front shocks back from Robert Paul, and I decided to be a lazy cheapskate and use those dogbone-style links. I had just one question: Do you install them dry with no lubrication?

Thanks,
Doug
 
I use Sil-Glyde on rubber parts like that.A good parts store has it,the ones like Auto Zone and Advance don't have a clue what it is.It comes in a tube,I have used it for over 30 years on O-rings and such on machinery.I tried a dab of grease or oil years ago,it attacked the rubber.
 
I use Sil-Glyde on rubber parts like that.A good parts store has it,the ones like Auto Zone and Advance don't have a clue what it is.It comes in a tube,I have used it for over 30 years on O-rings and such on machinery.I tried a dab of grease or oil years ago,it attacked the rubber.

Yes, I have a tube of Sil-Glide in my permanent collection. I'll give that a try.

Some rubber bushings are clearly designed to be fixed to both moving parts, with all motion accommodated by the flexing of the rubber. But the rubber balls in the dogbone seem too thin to be able to work that way.

Thanks,
Doug
 
I have just removed a set of dogbones from my '34 and found the balls on the perches polished from the movement. The rubber balls were "stuck" in the links. Gar Williams
 
Why are dogbones considered a lazy cheapskate solution

Well, they are not "correct"...

They were certainly inexpensive: $5.25. But they look pretty well-made, and you can get replacement rubber parts.

I have 3 out of 4 of the original tubular links, but to re-use them, I would have to buy a lot of bits- pretty much everything except the plugs and spacers.

Doug
 
If it's a driver to enjoy......use the dogbones. Lot easier to install and maintain. Some of the original style repo shock links are mis-machined on the inside of the tube, and are almost impossible to assemble. Proper machining is paramount.
Don't swear if you decide to go with the original style links.
 
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