Does your Model A overheat ?
- Thread starter 31Abone
- Start date
McMimmcs
Well-known member
I agree!
Purdy Swoft
Well-known member
My model A doesn't over heat .
mass A man
Well-known member
Did anyone notice the gas tanks don't appear to be exploded in the picture? They must have had their "flame arresters" in place.
larry harding
Senior Member
when i first built my 31 P U it would overheat. i wound up removing the radiator and sweating off the top tank. i had the radiator laying on a table with the top end over a large plastic container with a sump pump pump rigged to circulate water and cleaner backward thru it. i spent most of a day rodding out the tubes with a strip of 16 gage metal, one would open then stop back up. eventually all tubes flowed good. i resoldered the tank back on and no more overheating, a lot of work but well worth the effort. not many radiator shops left open and i am a hard core do it yourselfer.
No over heating here.
My secret. Engine pans, leak less water pump, new two blade aluminum fan, new correct radiator, and rebuilt distributor with correct timing.
No thermostat, use water with rust inhibitor. 95 degrees outside, no problem. Like brakes and front end. Your cooling system has to be 100 percent correct.
Just my opinion, I treat our Model A like an everyday driver. If there is a problem, it gets fixed right. I am not a fan of trying to get by with old or worn out parts. To old for that.
Enjoy.
My secret. Engine pans, leak less water pump, new two blade aluminum fan, new correct radiator, and rebuilt distributor with correct timing.
No thermostat, use water with rust inhibitor. 95 degrees outside, no problem. Like brakes and front end. Your cooling system has to be 100 percent correct.
Just my opinion, I treat our Model A like an everyday driver. If there is a problem, it gets fixed right. I am not a fan of trying to get by with old or worn out parts. To old for that.
Enjoy.
Purdy Swoft
Well-known member
I also use engine pans . Engine pans have been said to give fifteen percent better cooling .
Purdy Swoft
Well-known member
Retarded timing can be a major cause of over heating . Points gap effects timing . As the rubbing block wears the points gap will decrease and have a retarding effect . As the points gap decreases there will be a gradual decrease in power and engine temps will increase . When I adjust the points I set the gap at the maximum gap of
twenty two thousands . The larger gap has an advancing effect and gives more time before readjustment will be needed . The smaller gap of eighteen thousands is right on the edge of needing readjustment and I can see no advantage .
I have had good results using new eight fins per inch radiators . I run tap water and water pump lubricant in the summer .
twenty two thousands . The larger gap has an advancing effect and gives more time before readjustment will be needed . The smaller gap of eighteen thousands is right on the edge of needing readjustment and I can see no advantage .
I have had good results using new eight fins per inch radiators . I run tap water and water pump lubricant in the summer .
Synchro909
Well-known member
I have had trouble with overheating but I can't get angry with the car.
On an outback trip, I was running 5.25X21 tyres with a 26% Mitchell O/D while towing about a one tonne (2,200 lbs) trailer in mid 30Cs ambient temperatures at a steady 80 kph (50mph). 3.78 differential ratio. Gradually, the temperature rose too far and it boiled. By disengaging the O/D and dropping about 10 mph, the temp came down. I have since taken to using 16" wheels which are slightly smaller than the 5.25s. That means the engine has a few more revs and less lugging. It just holds about 190-200 F under those circumstances now.
BTW, with those 21" tyres and no trailer, I can travel all day at 100kph (62mph) with no overheating problems whatsoever. The effective drive ratio with this setup is 2.86:1. The motor is just ticking along at 50mph. (not a standard engine)
On an outback trip, I was running 5.25X21 tyres with a 26% Mitchell O/D while towing about a one tonne (2,200 lbs) trailer in mid 30Cs ambient temperatures at a steady 80 kph (50mph). 3.78 differential ratio. Gradually, the temperature rose too far and it boiled. By disengaging the O/D and dropping about 10 mph, the temp came down. I have since taken to using 16" wheels which are slightly smaller than the 5.25s. That means the engine has a few more revs and less lugging. It just holds about 190-200 F under those circumstances now.
BTW, with those 21" tyres and no trailer, I can travel all day at 100kph (62mph) with no overheating problems whatsoever. The effective drive ratio with this setup is 2.86:1. The motor is just ticking along at 50mph. (not a standard engine)
Brendan
Well-known member
That is a sad picture.
yes it is! i hate to see cars burnt up, its like death!
Purdy Swoft
Well-known member
Probably not much if anything that could be saved .
eagle
Well-known member
I have repaired burned equipment. It's amazing how absolutely destructive a fire is on a vehicle or equipment.
Gary WA
Well-known member
No!!
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