Do you think a sleeve will fix this?

[flatrod]

We have sleeved many blocks with similar cracks. As long as the crack does not go all the way to the bottom seating area, or out the top, I would go for it. We would use Loctite sleeve sealer on that one and usually shoot for .0025 press. Only one that I know of in 30 years seeped.

 

[gwrskien]

Can you use 1/8" thick wall sleeves, or do you need thicker walls if you onely have a good press fit on the top and bottom? It seems to me that the "wet" part of the cylinder would offer little support because of the crack. i think i can use same method on my block, so any info would be great. Thank`s

 

[Mart]

Ok guys, thanks for all the interest.

I've just come in from the garage.

I've brazed it up. I figure if it doesn't hold completely along the crack it's still better than the open crack all the way up.

I'll finish the bore for the liner later and see how it looks. I'm not building a racing engine, just something that will putt about. The sleeves are .125 wall. Mellings.

Fingers crossed lads, lets see where this journey takes me.

Mart.

 

[JSeery]

Mart, you did drill the ends of the crack before you brazed it?

 

[Mart]

Not exactly. I attacked it with a die grinder and went through at or near both ends.

 

[fordy_nine]

Thanks for sticking with it Mart. Your effort will be an eye opener to us all. We sure do appreciate your videos. Maybe we can all benefit from your "going where no one has ventured before"......Bob L

 

[JSeery]

Not exactly. I attacked it with a die grinder and went through at or near both ends.

They really needed to be drilled, that is about the only way to stop a crack from progressing. Be interesting to see how it turns out. Might work just fine!

 

[Aarongriffey]

What is a 59 Flatty?

 

[JSeery]

What is a 59 Flatty?

A 59 series flathead Ford engine and/or engine block.

From a post by Nate Cooper:

The 59 series blocks had better quality casting control than earlier blocks. This decreased the number of blocks with excessive core shifts. The following boring limitations are what I use for engines intended for the street. The 59 series blocks came in ‘46-’48 Ford and Merc’s. There aren’t any differences between Ford and Merc blocks during these years. All came with replaceable hard valve seats.

There were eight different engine designations to my limited knowledge: 59, 59A, 59AB, 59L, 59X, 59Y, 59Z, and 59ERP. The 59, 59A, and 59AB usually had no factory relief. These are the softest castings of the 59 series blocks. These will almost always bore to 3-3/8″ and still have adequate wall thickness left for street use. These were the most common blocks produced….. which is why they’re also the most common blocks still around today. The raised 59 number and letter (if used) are located on the top of the bell housing.

Not sure the 46-48 year span is totally correct, I have a 59ab that came out of a 49 Truck.

 

[RKS.PA]

I'm really ignorant here on block cracks....had the machine shop drill, pin, weld, and sleeve the only cracked block I've owned...so far!!


And not that it really matters, but I can't help wondering if that weakness in Mart's cylinder was there from the start and pounding the piston out brought it out through the bore? Would have thought the cylinder wall would have had more solid "meat" in it given the stress that goes on in that part of an operating engine. Should have been able to withstand pounding out a part that normally goes up and down!!

 

[flatjack9]

A 59 series flathead Ford engine and/or engine block.

From a post by Nate Cooper:

The 59 series blocks had better quality casting control than earlier blocks. This decreased the number of blocks with excessive core shifts. The following boring limitations are what I use for engines intended for the street. The 59 series blocks came in ‘46-’48 Ford and Merc’s. There aren’t any differences between Ford and Merc blocks during these years. All came with replaceable hard valve seats.

There were eight different engine designations to my limited knowledge: 59, 59A, 59AB, 59L, 59X, 59Y, 59Z, and 59ERP. The 59, 59A, and 59AB usually had no factory relief. These are the softest castings of the 59 series blocks. These will almost always bore to 3-3/8″ and still have adequate wall thickness left for street use. These were the most common blocks produced….. which is why they’re also the most common blocks still around today. The raised 59 number and letter (if used) are located on the top of the bell housing.

Not sure the 46-48 year span is totally correct, I have a 59ab that came out of a 49 Truck.

Doubt that that would have been original as Ford used the 8BA blocks starting in 1948.

 

[Zeke3]

I'm not building a racing engine, just something that will putt about.

Right, look for this engine at the Prescott Hill Climb or on the beach next year.

 

[rotorwrench]

Some of that 59 series info is mixed with wives tales. Casting technology didn't change much before, during, or after the war when it comes to the Ford V8 engines. Ford cast 239 V8 engines during the war too for the T-16 carrier so they likely updated the cores a bit for the 59 series right after that. They also made the 41A 221 block but many of them also have the 59 on the back bell. I don't think anyone has ever proven a change in cast iron formula. As far as I know the 8BA blocks had the same formula. Nodular cast iron came after the 8BA era.

 

[JSeery]

...I can't help wondering if that weakness in Mart's cylinder was there from the start and pounding the piston out brought it out through the bore? Would have thought the cylinder wall would have had more solid "meat" in it given the stress that goes on in that part of an operating engine. Should have been able to withstand pounding out a part that normally goes up and down!!

If you do some research on block disassemble, there are a lot of warnings about not attempting to knock pistons out that are stuck and how easy it is to crack a cylinder wall. That's why it is recommended to hole saw the center of the piston out to relieve pressure before attempting to remove them (when they are stuck, not normal loose ones).

 

[RKS.PA]

If you do some research on block disassemble, there are a lot of warnings about not attempting to knock pistons out that are stuck and how easy it is to crack a cylinder wall. That's why it is recommended to hole saw the center of the piston out to relieve pressure before attempting to remove them (when they are stuck, not normal loose ones).

I remember your saying use a hole saw above, Jerry. And good advice on the research....hard not to after following this post. I sure don't want to replicate Mart's experience and appreciate the difference between pistons that are stuck and those that aren't. Would this be applicable to all blocks, not just flatheads?

Thanks very much!!