Do I really have to find a spring spreader?

Heard said:
John,
That looks to me like one of the safest ways to do it. That is pretty much what I ended up doing except your method is way more elegant. I used all thread AND C clamps. I left the C clamps on, loosened the nut on the all thread about 1/4", then loosened the C clamps. Then loosened the nut, then clamps and so on until all was loose. No drama, no surprises, very controllable, and overall very safe.

Its apart now. Making progress. Now I need help separating the torque tube. I started another thread about that.
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Did you use a spreader on the last leaf? If not how did you get that leaf off/back on. No one has discussed this step that I can tell.
 
That single leaf is usually long enough and flexible enough that it can be "grunted" into submission onto or off of the shackles. DD
 
Sixseven. DD is correct. I just grunted it off, but in the process, I bent up both of the shackles. Not so sure that is the best way to do it. At least not with the shackles I had. They are Pete and Jake. One of the plates is fixed to both pins. The other side (of the same shackle) has a removable plate. If both plates were removable, it probably would have been easier than trying to slide the entire pin out under even this slight pressure. Not sure if all the shackles are like mine or not.
 
Sixseven said:
Did you use a spreader on the last leaf? If not how did you get that leaf off/back on. No one has discussed this step that I can tell.
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Sixseven, if you look at the last picture in post #70, a spring spreader was used to remove the final leaf and again when that leaf went back on during assembly. This is the only way I would use that particular spreader because it is not strong enough to spread a complete rear spring pack. I made that spreader many years ago using 3/4" all thread & galvanized water pipe before I understood how much force it took to spread an assembled spring. If I made one today it would be a much heavier duty design.
 
Heard said:
Sixseven. DD is correct. I just grunted it off, but in the process, I bent up both of the shackles. Not so sure that is the best way to do it. At least not with the shackles I had. They are Pete and Jake. One of the plates is fixed to both pins. The other side (of the same shackle) has a removable plate. If both plates were removable, it probably would have been easier than trying to slide the entire pin out under even this slight pressure. Not sure if all the shackles are like mine or not.
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The idea here would be to place a block of wood directly under the end of the spring (eye) that you first removed the plate. Place just enough weight (your foot) toward the center of the leaf to relieve remaining tension on the shackle pins while tapping on the remaining FIXED plate, driving both pins out of the two eyes. If careful, it all remains in relative alignment. DD
 
JM 35 Sedan said:
Last year I took the rear out of my car to replace 4.11 gears with 3.78's and repair/rebuild the rear as necessary. The attached pictures show how we disassembled the spring pack and removed it from the rear. I do not like using C clamps alone to take a spring pack apart. I don't care who has recomending doing this, C clamps alone can slip off the spring allowing the pack to fly apart. These leaves can come apart with enough energy to kill someone, maybe you...so BE SAFE!!
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I really like this and will be using this method. Thank you.

So many great ideas.
 
I was fortunate enough to get this as a gift from a friend in LA this winter. and it looks very sturdy and nice as Snap-on is well know for.
Some of my friends have borrowed it a few times already and it works perfect. i will use it soon myself, on a 1946 and a 1932.
 

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I just used the spreader available on e-bay on my model a, it is a well made unit, I spread the spring until it almost touched the shock mounts and the shackles were already loose just a couple of taps with a hammer and they popped right out, and this car had been sitting since 1959! It was really worth it! I would do it again!
 
All thread, or redi rod is available in grade 8 quality I have lots and use it all the time, so strength is not an issue using it. Just don't use the regular grade 5 stuff.
 
I've always just used the jack method, using a floor jack and the weight of the car. Pull the shackles, then unbolt the spring from the crossmember and drop it out. To take one off of an existing axle, I used C-clamps and a long piece of all thread, where the center bolt goes, and gradually released the tension until I could take it apart.

When putting the spring back together, I use the all thread to line up the leaves, lay it flat on it's side, and begin to tighten until I can get the C clamps on it, then put in the center bolt. Once it's together, I bolt it back into the crossmember and use a floor jack to raise it up and reinstall the shackles.

Yes, I still have l my teeth.
 
Whenever spring removal is a topic the year of the spring is often not part of the thread. The spring pack itself almost always has tension, but the tension between the spring perches varies by the years. Earlier car have the springs spread quite a bit while the later years have very little spread. In the 60s and on up a lot of springs have a fixed end and a floating end with no spread tension. So it is going to depend a lot on the year as to how difficult a spring is to remove and which method of removal works best.
 
Can you rent a Porta-Power? If you lived closer you could use this.
 

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