Do I need to replace Cam Bearings?

G

GHerr1957

Junior Member
I am rebuilding a 292 Y block and the camshaft in the engine was out of tolerance regarding the lobes so I am replacing it. The new camshaft has the grove instead of the cross drilled holes that was in the engine. The cam bearings in the engine now are in great shape. Can I just use the same cam bearings for the grooved camshaft, or do I need to replace them with different bearings made for the grooved camshaft?

On a second question. I torqued the main bearing caps to 120 ft lbs per specs I got off the internet. I since have read that the 292 main caps are supposed to be torque to 90 foot lbs. Which is correct? If it is 90, am I in any danger of causing harm to the engine since they are over torqued at 120? And does anyone put those flimsy pal nuts back on the rod caps? I can see these things coming off and flying around inside of the engine. If so, does the cupped side go toward the rod nuts, or does the flat side go toward the rod nuts?

Thanks
 
For the 35$ or so I would replace the cam bearings. The whole engine would have to come back out to replace them if there is a problem.

Torque the main caps to 95lbs. The 120lbs was a misprint from 56.
I think the bolts will be OK but you could replace them for peace of mind.
Whos to say the ones you replace them with haven't been tigthened to 120lbs.

Just about everyone I know will throw away those pal nuts. When I rebuilt my 1st yblock 40+ yrs ago my old man (my teacher/supervisor) told me to pitch them.

Check out John Mummerts ford-y-block.com There is alot of good information there on mistakes to avoid. He also has some great parts.
 
Lowrider gave wonderful correct information. I have to add this about the new cam. Run your thumb nail across the grove in the center cam bearing. How deep is it? Some new cams have the groove to shallow to move enough oil to the rocker assemblies. The pal nuts go in the trash can, torque the nuts with one drop of oil on the threads. Inspect the main bearing webs and caps for cracks after they have overtightened. Consider modifying the outlet tubes on the rockers to make them preasurized.
 
Thanks Low Rider and Ole Don.
Ole Don, What exactly are you referring to when you indicated that I should modify the outlet tubes on the rockers? Crimp them shut to force oil back through the rocker assembly?

thanks again.
 
Yes, but some oil still needs to escape. I cut off the tube with a tube cutter. then tap the tube, I think its 10-24. Buy two screws the right size, cheapies are best because you need to drill a hole the length of them about 1/16 inch diameter. Put the screws in with a drop of lock tight. The one on the left oils the distributor gear, the one on the right oils the cam drive. I also cut a groove in the cam retainer to leak more oil straight down when installed. Before the block goes to the soaking tank, be sure the adapter under the oil filter has been removed.
 
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All good advice and the few improvements listed will give you way better engine life.The 120 on the mains are a little over but wont hurt any thing as long as your rotation on the crank is good. . I always put a little more shim in the oil pump pressure regulator to add 20 or so Lbs to the oil pressure and do crokus cloth the pressure regulator piston bore to make sure its clean of any babbit or trash.
 
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