Do A's tolerate Ethanol in fuel, or...

I have had issues with ethanol gas in the hot summertime on long highway trips. When I stop for gas and restart, the car doesn't want to run right. I am told the ethanol lowers the boiling point of the fuel and if enough heat gets to the carb, the fuel will boil in the bowl, make a vapor lock of sorts. I found two options:

1). Add a bit of Marvel Mystery Oil or Diesel Fuel to the gas when I fill up to raise the boiling point.

2). Shut off the fuel supply under the tank and run the car out of gas. Open the valve before restarting and the cold, fresh gas will cool everything down.

I'm wondering how much rainforest they are going to have to clear cut to grow all of the corn for this ethanol wonder fuel. I figure ethanol should be for people, not for Model A's.
 
The N.H.law has a little more in it than just growing corn for gasohol.It requires a grower to get a license to provide fuel corn,with monthly reports on how much was grown and shipped.It does prohibit any of it going to any fuel used in N.H.It also prohibits gasohol from being sold in the state.The law also contains a codicil that to go into effect two other New England state have to pass the same laws.I bet we can look to the oil companies for the explanation on that.The tank farm in Newington N.H. services at least three states,and I bet they refuse to dedicate tanks for just the state of N.H. to pull out of.I was following it,but I kind of forgot about it. It was voted on March 15 or 17.It was passed and adopted,by the legislature,now it has been kicked up to the next rung for the next set of heads to vote on it.If it passes the next hurdle,then it goes to the governor for a signature or veto.
 
My formula for success with E-10.

In prior threads here and on the old Barn I shared my experiences with creeping neoprene goo after E-5 appeared in New England. I'm not going to cover old ground; we've all heard about how the fuel separates, evaporates, turns to corn syrup, dissolves neoprene, etc., etc.

Cutting to the chase, the following formula has given me four consecutive years of driving without a single fuel-related problem... E-5, E-10, 87, 89, 91 Octane, whatever:

1) HARD Neoprene gauge float, NOT CORK.
2) CORK gauge gaskets, NOT NEOPRENE.
3) MMO added to gas, per manufacturer's instructions.
4) Star Brite "Star Tron" (the blue stuff) added to gas, also per
manufacturer's instructions.
5) Run carb dry at the end of each day.
6) The on-board computer (driver) needs to adjust the spark and
GAV "to taste." (The car's taste, that is.)

There, I said it; take it or leave it, it works for me.

Whether it's a day, a week, or a month between starts, the "A" starts first time, every time. (As do my lawn mowers and snow blower, on the same fuel diet, no matter how long the fuel sits.)

JMHO. Happy Spring, everyone. (Northern Hemisphere, that is.)
 
A bit of "Seafoam" now and the helps a bit. but not to much. it will thin out gas to much, origional gas had lead in it and that helped lubricate the cylinder walls, now there is not much left for lube in the gas
Just my 2cents experience and thoughts
John
 
Some original gas had lead. Tetraethyl lead first appeared in some, not all, US gasoline in 1923. The product was aimed at reducing knock in the new "high compression" engines of the day (4.7-6.1 or thereabouts). I doubt whether many "T" or "A" owners were ever willing to pay for "premium" gas with lead. "A's" didn't need it when new, and (JMHO) they don't need it now. I'll stick with my formula, per post #25.
 
My grandfather told me leaded gas did not come here until well after the war.When a station here started to carry it they lost their shirt on it.This was a poor area,and the extra money was a waste.It became known as the ethyl station,but it really was a Gulf.A station only needed one gas pump,nobody would buy the higher priced stuff.
 
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