Dizzy Stuck, does not rotate with Engine

Might not need a full rebuild, but it needs to come apart to clean oil passages and other things. Checking the drip tray for pin holes are likely. Rod
 
Ross if that is all it would take great but my funds are limited.
Let me ask this, how does a Babbitt engine like to be taken apart and put back together with out replacing the Babbitt? I have no experience with this type of engine. Buying the gaskets and necessary hardware is not a problem neither is pulling the engine.
 
There are much wiser people on the barn than myself. I hope that they can walk you through it. I'm sure that it is possible.
 
I am with those who say take it out and tear it down. That does not cost anything. Then you can start making informed decisions. And since it does not run now, you are not out anything. And I respect your desire to same money, we all do.

Re your babbitt question, if the babbitt was good when it was "parked" years ago it is probably good now. Babbitt engines do not mind being torn down. Babbitt does not rust. Babbitt will go back together easily. The thing with babbitt is clearances and fracturing. You will check those when you tear it down. No cost. Adjust if necessary, no cost. Just keep track of measurements. No cost.

I gather you have a decent tool set. Get some measuring tools, a cheap Harbor Freight micrometer is OK for a one-off job.($30) But have quality wrenches and sockets.

You have to get rid of ALL rust, otherwise the engine Will fail. Soon. This can only be done by a teardown, scrubbing, and a hot tank, or whatever the EPA allows these days. Maybe $50, even here in Calif. Check locally. Scrub all passages after the hot tank, per James above. Set of cheap Harbor Freight scrub brushes, $10.

In once sense, tar and crud in the pan may be a good thing for you, as it may be a good indicator of tar and crud elsewhere, which will protect things against rusting. Tar and crud cleanup, no cost.

Surely you need to replace the distributor and drive gear and at least some valve springs but for the cost replace them all. Check the valve stems for rust. I cannot see them well enough in the pics, but #4 and 6 seem not rusty, just cruddy. That is what wire wheels and kerosene are for. Clean them yourself, no cost.

The key will be the condition of the cylinder walls, crank journals and cam. If the cylinders are rusty, they need to be bored out, and new pistons purchased. No fudging here. $100 for the pistons, plus machinist costs. Check locally for machining cost.

Rusty crank journals need turning, and maybe new babbitt depending on the amount. That gets expensive. But good babbitt usually means good journals and that is my bet on this engine. If it turns over now, you have a fair indication babbitt and crank are not terminally damaged. But you do not know until you look. No cost.

Cam and lifters can take some pitting, but not much. Used cam and new lifters are fairly cheap. But you do not know until you look.

The block surface and head can operate with some rusting pits if they have them (not optimum or recommended and others will disagree, and I would have them surfaced) but it can be done. But even there, check with a machinist for price.

As Ross says, you may be able to do a "reasonable" rebuild for $3-400. I would up that to 5-600, even $1K if you want a Cadillac job, but hey, I am in Calif.

I would not give up on this engine yet. If you have a good block and crank, everything else can be worked out without great expense. If you are willing to spend the labor time yourself, and spend the time to learn, you can probably resurrect this engine. Model A parts are not really expensive. Most of the cost of a rebuilding is the expert labor. (And that cost is justified, I am not knocking it.) It wont be a racer, but it will be a good and reliable engine.

But the point is, you do not know until you look.

If you learn to do it yourself, you can save thousands of dollars. Get a few books, get all the parts catalogs, not only for prices but Brattons and others for their hints, join a club, search this forum (it has everything) and ask questions. This may become a project for all of us. It will take some time and energy. But it can be done, and you feel really good about doing it yourself, very satisfying.

You can have it on the road by next spring for touring.
 
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Adding to what PC/SR said there are lots of used parts, some are free and some are low cost. I cracked my distributor body and put an ad on Fordbarn. I got many responses and the price range was $15 to $150. I got the $15 distributor plus $7.50 shipping. After talking to the owner he said it was just muddy and that turned out to be true. You really won't have to spend a fortune if you don't want to. The internet is your best friend (Fordbarn).
 
The only tip I would add to this is to have patience. Make a list if the parts you need, and have the patience to comb Craigslist, eBay, Ford Barn, AACA, Hemmings etc. The parts you need can be had for short money. I know what it is like to do a project on a budget. Each phase of mine means selling something that I have in stock to pay for it. What do you have to sell?

Just have to have the patience to search for parts and think this through. I did not notice if you got Les's book yet. If not do so at once, in additon to showing you how to take apart, check, and put it back together, you will learn proper terminology. Reasearch the book a bit before you ask a question, that will help you to understand the answer.
 
Gentleman, after some discussion with my bride and all of you on the Ford Barn we have agreed that it will be best to remove the engine and give it a good inspection and cleaning.
I have no idea what babbiting is and I am wondering if it can be removed marked and reinstalled. Also what do I need to do to remove the torque tube from the engine?
 
QGolden is correct. Buy the book by Les Andrews to at least familiarize yourself with the steps necessary to accomplish what you need to do. There are little nuances here and there that will save you a lot of time and frustration. A Model A takes different skills than working on a "modern" car.
 
yes so I have found out, I did order Andrews vol I and II. just going to take time again thank ya'll for the words of wisdom.
 
Wisconsinjimmy you asked about babbit work, Elmer LeBrash in Rochester, MN does excellent babbit work along with Byers machine shop there in Rochester to do the line boring and other engine work. I have one of the engines Elmer did and it is great. Elmer was trained by a older fellow in West Concord, MN that had years of experience doing Packards and Pierce Arrows. Elmer has all the KR tools for doing it the way the Ford dealers had back when was done in house.
 
Babbit is a pouring process. It takes a hammer and chisel to peal it from the block and bearing caps. It is not re-usable at that point. The bearing clearance is adjustable by removing shims as it and the crank wear. It does not hold up to boiling tanks at the machine shop. If the bearings are still re-usable other less agressive methods of cleaning the engine up will need to be used. I have brought engines in the condition this one appears to be in for under $1500, but was lucky the bearings were in good condition. Rod
 
Rowdy, Can I remove the crank and rods and still be able to put them back together again? Like a modern day engine I can remove the rods and as long as I keep the bearings with the rod I can re assemble.
 
the babbit is poured and bonds to the rod and rod cap. same for the mains. shim packs are installed under the caps to allow adjustment of the caps with wear. When you tear down the motor keep each component organized and oriented so you can reassemble exactly as it was in the block. be organized. I would like to hear that you have experienced help to guide you thru this close at hand before you start. Bob
 
Hey Bob, I will be on my own on this but as long as I can pull and reuse the Babbitt that is half the battle providing the material is not all grooved up.
 
Hopefully you won't be PULLING any babbit. The babbit should be bonded to the rods and caps, and the same with the 3 main bearings.

I've been thinking of driving out to Milltown again to make a map with mileage readings for the group tour in the spring. If I do this, I can swing out to your place.
 
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You can remove the crank and rods, but you can not remove the bearings themselves from the block, caps or rods without having them repoured and line bored to fit the crank dia. Be sure when taking it apart to keep track of the shims. Where they are and how many may be very important if the bearings are in good shape. I like to mark the caps on the cam side and put the bolts back with the caps with the shims on the side they were on. That way if the bearings are usable I know how it was together before so I have a baseline to start with before removing shims to set the clearance. Rod
 
I would mix some automatic transmission fluid and acetone up and pour it into the cylinders, squirt it around the valves and lifters. It will work itself in and help free stuff up.
I've got my spare engine in the shop and if you'd like you can drive to Osceola and take a peek. It would give you a chance to see how things are before you start taking yours apart. Don
 
Well I have got ambitious and removed the radiator (has hole) water pump and the head. Water jacket has quite a bit of rust flakes so this will have to be cleaned (cooked) also pistons are .020 and number 2 (from front of engine) has a bit more slap then what I am comfy with actually I can hear it hit the side of the cylinder when moving with my hand. Well I am deep in it and only a few more bolts and out it comes.
 
I know this is going to sound a bit weird but at the present time I do not drive, had a surgery end of July not go good and I feel it is better I do not drive at this time. I am looking for another engine as I have a not so good feeling about this one. Thanks.
 
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