Dizzy Stuck, does not rotate with Engine

To easily find TDC, remove the four spark plugs, cover #1 cylinder with your left thumb while turning over slowly with the crank. When you feel compression building, you know your getting close to TDC when you can feel the pin drop into the detent on the cam gear. Now you can time the ignition with the distributor cam per procedures.
 
Yaaaaaaaa the darn distributor came loose yup got it out with the help from all here on the forum and Kroil, the distributor shaft is junk also how do I remove the spring as I did pull the valve cover.

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Pull the distributor/ oil pump drive out and see if the teeth on it are stripped. Also try to look at the drive teeth on the cam. You may need a light and mirror to see the teeth on the cam. Rod
 
Looks like you will be replacing the cam for sure. Best to pull the engine at this point as from what I can see you need to clean and inspect many things at this point. Rod
 
Hey Paul I have no idea as I purchased the car at auction, so to give an update, distributor drive is froze up in the distributor body and the drive is badly rusted. I have acquired a good distributor from my dads pile of stuff. I will buy a new drive shaft and pin, the worm gear looks to be OK and just turning the oil pump by hand it pumps oil. I still need to check the valves and make sure they are moving. Pulled the oil plug and the oil was just a trickle coming out which means sludge or tar in the pan (have pan gasket) With all of your help I just might get this car running before the snow flies.
 
I would never try to start that engine without a complete disassembly and the crank out for cleaning. Reason for this is, if there was any oil trapped in the tubes from the valve chamber it has hardened and will not let oil pass. This will take out the mains in short order.
 
moisture builds up in the hole the dizzy is in for some reason and can typically rust up the body and shaft as you have seen. My guess is it was so rusted the drive gear could not turn it and just bent the teeth instead.

All that loose rust in the valve chamber is not good since it is a sure bet that some if not many rust pieces/flakes have descended into the oil holes for the mains and cam and will block oil flow.

I would proceed with the utmost of caution.

Good bet the engine has not been run in at least 30 yrs and car has possibly been outside or just under a tarp all this time.

Good to hear you are planning to drop the pan, it won't be pretty in there.

OK, James and I were typing at the same time
 
Jim, I do not want to sound smarty or cocky but if I have to tear the engine down that would be the end of this project, after looking around and getting prices an engine rebuild is not in my budget. I am only going to do what needs to be done to get it (the engine) to start and drive. Thanks for your concern and advise.
 
Any springs with rust or rust pits should be replaced. I see at least one rusty valve spring and oil/dist drive gear spring that need to be replaced.

I agree that some of those flakes may be in the oil tubes feeding the mains. A complete tear down would be best.
 
i agree also on the teardown clean out the passages, ck and adjust the bottom end, make sure the valves are free... wont cost much... o yea you'll get her fired up otherwise but will most likely be short lived
 
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What if you could get it running fine for $3-400? I would want to see what the rest of it looked like and see if could put it together with used, borrowed parts. To me it would be worth a shot and what have you got to lose?
 
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