DIY Spark plug lift tool?

Smokedtires

Smokedtires

Senior Member
Hello all, I have my Roadster torn down to the point that I'm ready to pull the engine out. I ordered the spark plug lift tool from a supplier and received exactly one as ordered (assumed it would have come with the 2 needed). Now the 2nd one is on back order.

So this got me thinking. Can I just cut/drill out the ceramic from an old spark plug and weld my own eyelet in the spark plug to make my own?

If anyone has tried this, I'm all ears.

Thanks.
 

Attachments

  • A-17022.jpg
    A-17022.jpg
    16.9 KB · Views: 16
Smokedtires said:
Hello all, I have my Roadster torn down to the point that I'm ready to pull the engine out. I ordered the spark plug lift tool from a supplier and received exactly one as ordered (assumed it would have come with the 2 needed). Now the 2nd one is on back order.

So this got me thinking. Can I just cut/drill out the ceramic from an old spark plug and weld my own eyelet in the spark plug to make my own?

If anyone has tried this, I'm all ears.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Yes you can, but the porcelain is pretty hard! Can be done tho!
 
If you don't have a plug lying around that you want to destroy, you can also buy the $8 adapter that converts 7/8" to 14mm plugs. Unfortunately it's difficult/impossible to find eyebolts threaded to M14x1.25, so instead you would have to drill out the M14 threads and weld in an eyebolt or tap it as something larger.
 
Here are mine, no welding. Unless you count the JB Weld in the bottom one to center it. Be sure to use rated eyebolts, not bent plated ones. Chose nuts and washers smaller than the spark plug hole or grind them smaller.

picture.php
 
Put it in the third plug hole. A better adapter for pulling an engine is the one where you can adjust the location of the chain from the hoist. The Model A engine wants to be at different angles during the process of pulling or installing it. These adapters allow you to change the angle on the fly.
 
nkaminar said:
... A better adapter for pulling an engine is the one where you can adjust the location of the chain from the hoist. The Model A engine wants to be at different angles during the process of pulling or installing it. These adapters allow you to change the angle on the fly.
Click to expand...
Called a "load leveler", available on Amazon for around $40. Very handy to have. I took off the included chains/L-brackets and run the shackles from the load leveler direct through the eyebolts in the spark plug holes, that gives some additional lift using my engine hoist.
 
I have the load leveler already. I will check out attaching it directly to the eyebolts. Will tackle the eyebolt/sparkplug tonight hopefully with safety glasses in place. Thank again for the valuable info.
 
Smokedtires said:
I have the load leveler already. I will check out attaching it directly to the eyebolts. Will tackle the eyebolt/sparkplug tonight hopefully with safety glasses in place. Thank again for the valuable info.
Click to expand...

I found that you need 2-3 links (quick links or a short chain) between the load leveler shackles and the eye bolts, at least for typical load leveler designs, because otherwise, when you tilt the front of the engine up to bring it out, the crank on the front of the leveler will bump into the cylinder head when you try to turn it. I agree that you don't need the L-brackets but you do need a little bit of spacing.
 
alexiskai said:
I found that you need 2-3 links (quick links or a short chain) between the load leveler shackles and the eye bolts, at least for typical load leveler designs, because otherwise, when you tilt the front of the engine up to bring it out, the crank on the front of the leveler will bump into the cylinder head when you try to turn it. I agree that you don't need the L-brackets but you do need a little bit of spacing.
Click to expand...
I think that may be true if the water pump is on the head. Maybe I've had the water pump off each time I've tried it because I don't recall that problem, although I can certainly see how it might be.
 
JayJay said:
I think that may be true if the water pump is on the head. Maybe I've had the water pump off each time I've tried it because I don't recall that problem, although I can certainly see how it might be.
Click to expand...

In my case I was running into the spot on the cylinder head where the water outlet attaches. I was able to muddle through by removing the studs. The spark plug holes you select to attach the bolts to probably affect things as well. Bottom line, putting a few quick links in there doesn't hurt anything and might save you from getting into a tight spot mid-extraction.
 
So I was able to get some garage time. Alexiskai that is a great point, I will keep that in mind.

I grab one of the old plugs I removed and started by placing it in the vice upside down so I could grind off the spark tang. I then used a punch and hammer to remove the ceramic.

I found a 3/8" 2200lb capacity eyebolt at the hardware store. The 3/8 bolt is much larger in size than the one I purchased. Drilled out the center of plug housing to accept the eyebolt. I have a nut above and below the housing, bottom was cut down and welded in place, being conscious of depth so as not to hit top of piston. Top nut is to keep bottom nut from dropping down below head while allowing the eyebolt ability to rotate.

Hoping this weekend I can start pulling the engine out. Thanks all!
 

Attachments

  • 20231017_182116.jpg
    20231017_182116.jpg
    68.3 KB · Views: 26
  • 20231017_181956.jpg
    20231017_181956.jpg
    70.6 KB · Views: 23
  • 20231017_181933.jpg
    20231017_181933.jpg
    82.6 KB · Views: 19
I have made several of these by chipping out the porcine using # 1 and # 3 you will need a leveler and a lot of patience. I would suggest removing the water outlet bolts. Good luck
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top