distrubutor Mallory

M

Masot

Member
Hi


I have a flathead 8BA with Navarro aluminum heads and three stromberg 97 .

I have Mallory 2548201 distributor with pertronix.

What grades do you need? read 28 advance? how many revolutions?

springs Hard? I buy Mr Gasket 928G Advance Curve Kit

Thanks!
 
Last edited:
First thing if you check, it appears that the (Mr Gasket 928G Advance Curve Kit) is made for GM distributor, not Mallory.
Also the Mallory 2548201 appears to be made to fit GM ,not flathead.
 
28 degr advance is too much for the flatty, 22 will be enough. If mechanical advance, you can reduce the amount of degree swing of the flyweights, make sure you have full advance at or before 2000 crank revs - this will give best acceleration. Fully retarded you should have a spark 2 to 4 degr BTDC. If electronic, check what you have and find a programable ignition to dial in for the flathead.
 
Thanks Vincent for the information.
Yes, my Mallory is a mechanic.

My Pertronix is Pertronix 3
 
Last edited:
After adjustment of distributors possible movement to 10 degr (20 at crank) start adjusting the springs. No need to buy special springs, you can use standard spring coils of a wire size slightly thinner than the Chevy stuff. If wire is thinner and coils more - the spring gets weaker. Thus flyweight will travel further outboard at the same speed. If you cut one coil of the spring the remaining coils have to do more work and thus the spring becomes stronger. I check my dizzy on a lathe and see when the flyweights open, this should occur at around 800 revs (1600 at crank) and be fully open at 1000 revs (2000 crank)
I don´t know the pertronics stuff so no help there.
 
woowww, this information is very good, I never thought of adjusting it on the lathe!

thank you very much from Spain
 
Ignition advance for a flathead is very simple, but hard to get. Under power17/20 max and 26/28 cruise. This must work with the carburation 12.5/13 for power, 14.7 15.5 The only system that works with these numbers is a Charley ny Dist. and n Edelbrock 500 cfm 4bl. This was all on the barn back about 10 yeas ago by Richard kunc Now every engine is different so you have to find the sweet spot for yours. His engine was a 276 , L-100 cam
3800 lb 53 Ford HT T-5 4.10 I drove the car, very impresive.
G
 
I use the same converted Mallory as yours in many of my builds and this includes with the Pertronix conversion. Set your initial timing between 10 to 12 degrees at idle RPM and then look for a total with the centrifugal advance a max of 22 to 25 degrees. Even though you have a converted distributer as long as your able to limit the amount the advance weights go out you will get the timing adjusted to these numbers.
Very nice looking Flathead
Ronnieroadster
 
Every engine builder has his own reason for tuning an engine, especially these that come from street and short track racing. I keep my mechanical advance very short. I do this because it helps acceleration and comes in around 17/20 degrees and you tune the AF for best acceleration.. Now running the same engine in the street we go to a long advance 226/29 and set the AF for economy. Richard thought of this. He was getting 22mpg with his 53 HT. I drove it and the street performance was ver good. Experimenting is what improves the beast.
Gramps
 
Thanks for your comments

My engine is:

Heads Navarro high compression
Ross Aluminum pistons
camshaft super 88 3/4
Original Tripower Strombergs rebuilt by Uncle Max
distributor Mallory with Pertronix

Also adjust this configuration that you comment?

Thanks
 
sounds like a very nice build with all good parts, need to know displacement, you have to get an AF meter and check timing advance at cruise and acceleration. good luck .
Gramps
 
Ol' Ron said:
sounds like a very nice build with all good parts, need to know displacement, you have to get an AF meter and check timing advance at cruise and acceleration. good luck .
Gramps
Click to expand...



I have an AF meter waiting for information to verify advance

Thanks Ron
 
The AF meter will only check the air/fuel ratio, The timing light checks advance. You need to measure your Af to and vheck your advance, if the AF is too righ you have to change the jets in the carb.. You have to understand what these instruments do for you, and adjust accordingly. Simple way to do this is oneat a time. Drive the car at your cruising speed, get the AF to 14.5 set advance at 24 check milage. move advance to 26 check milage. change carb to 15, check milage . Now check AF at WOT and AF. After you've done this a few times you can skip some of the test and combine them
The beauty of this system is the first test tells all
Gramps.
spending 5 or 6K on an engine build. Spending alittle time tunerng it might be worth the effort.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top