I have the two piece shaft and really good bushings as no slop. Inside the distributor, not much can go wrong. Pull the distributor, open it up, take it apart and learn it. Love it.
I use the modern upper plate with 1970 Ford V-8 points and condenser.
I left the original lower isolated plate that has the tang for the jacketed spring loaded ignition cable end to touch and make contact to energized the points.
That lower isolated plate also has a tang for mounting the original style condenser and a screw hole to secure the original condenser. That tang has been known [by heat or vibration?] at idle to touch the inside of the distributor body, shorting out the points. It can be bent inboard just a tad. Or a piece of silver duct tape between the tang and distributor body can act as a pad to keep that tang from sparking out.
It is imperative that the spring loaded brass jacketed ignition cable end that is isolated in a screw-in distributor end, not be screwed into the body of the distributor too far thus shorting out the points via the lower plate.
Either way, with or without that heavy armored corrugated protective pop-out tube with the jacketed ignition cable inside it, not be grounded going up to the points on the upper plate. Check, check, check, with a continuity meter.
Hint: Do not 'clean' the upper plate with WD-40, as this usually shorts out the condenser and that generally kills the juice to the coil, making for a weak or no spark at the plugs.
Hint: A small piece of paper under the rotor takes the wobble out of that assembly.
Hint: A ring of PVC electric tape around the bottom of the distributor cap takes the wobble away from the distributor body and cap. You'll have to cope around the pin under the cap. But it certainly firms up the assembly. No more slop and cocking of the distributor cap toward advance or retard.
I posted -->>Dinking Around Inside My Distributor for more information on the dist.
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