Distributor Stuck!

J

Jim Kroeger

Member
I went to remove my distributor on my Model A so I could install modern points and condenser but I can get it out of the head. Does anyone have some ideas of how to loosen this thing up and remove it without damaging the distributor or head. Thanks. JIM
 
All the Model A suppliers carry a distributor puller. I have used a gear puller. I use a little copper anti-seize when I install the dizzy. I emphasize a LITTLE anti-seize.
 
Lots of penetrating oil where it goes into head left to soak for 48 hours. Only use very gentle upward prising otherwise you'll brake the casting at the neck, don't attempt rotatation (never hit lugs!- try a oil filter removal tool instead) until locating pin is clear of head. Also try a dissy puller as Rock suggests. If all else fails remove head c/w dissy shaft -then thermal shock by leaving overnight in freezer and day in hot sun shine. If all esle fails when head removed place steel water pipe over shaft and tap distribuotr out of top of head.
 
It took a lot to remove mine last year. There is a video of richpin removing the distributor on YouTube. I think it was part of his changing the head gasket. You can watch him really have to work to remove it using a big screwdriver as a wedge.
 
get distributor puller. install and tighten down securely. take torch heat head dont get any where near dull red just warm good. then tighten puller. should come off. dont get it too hot it might stick valves. if it does use 4 oz marvel mistry oil for a couple gallons of gas and drive about 10 miles
 
Why pull the distributor at all? Unless your replacing the bushings? You can easily change the plates with it in the motor.
 
Have you loosened the locking screw on the side of the head??
Try mixing ATF and acetone 50/50 and soak into and around the body. I finally ended up using a 3 ft crow bat to get mine out, and no I didn't break the casting. If you do a search you will find that many have had nothing but problems with the modern points. FWIW
Paul in CT
 
1931 flamingo said:
Have you loosened the locking screw on the side of the head??
Try mixing ATF and acetone 50/50 and soak into and around the body. I finally ended up using a 3 ft crow bat to get mine out, and no I didn't break the casting. If you do a search you will find that many have had nothing but problems with the modern points. FWIW
Paul in CT
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Paul, you better go out and buy a lottery ticket.:D

I've used 2 screwdrivers on opposite sides to lift carefully and evenly, and never broke a distributor, but a 3 foot crowbar..........WOW:eek:
 
1931 flamingo said:
Have you loosened the locking screw on the side of the head??
Try mixing ATF and acetone 50/50 and soak into and around the body. I finally ended up using a 3 ft crow bat to get mine out, and no I didn't break the casting. If you do a search you will find that many have had nothing but problems with the modern points. FWIW
Paul in CT
Click to expand...

That 3 ft crowbar just might be the answer to getting the wrong girlfriend out of the Studebaker with the whitewalls. Flamingo you just may have pulled my love life out of the dumpster.:rolleyes:
 
1931flamingo;

I do not think it is a problem with the modern points as much as it is a problem with the bottom plate connection to the top plate in lieu of a wire connecting the top plate . I have had no problem with modern points/condenser in the dist. with a top plate with wire.
 
Thanks for all your suggestions about removing the distributor. I think I will play it safe and soak it in penetrating oil and try the puller. I tried the screwdriver trick but was afraid to force things. It is really stuck on there. My condenser keeps getting fried with the heat so that's why I want to try the modern points.
 
you can install modern points without removing distributor, but if you feel the need to remove the distributor I strongly recommend a puller they work slick and only cost about 40.00 from model a parts suppliers.
 
The new " repro old style condensers " from the major vendors hold up well and tolerate the heat better than the early repro condensers. Might want to try one of these in lieu of any major effort to remove your dist.
 
The latest repro condensers work well as they use different insulating foil than the originals.Make sure the timing is not to retarded as it will run hotter.Back in the 50,s I went over 75,000 miles on the same condenser No need for modern points & cond.Original points are easier to adjust.
 
I had to pull my distributor last week while changing the head gasket. (I suspect the gasket had some kind of leak, as the distributor and cylinder head were rusted where the two go together.)

Liberal amounts of WD-40 + 12 hours of waiting, and then very mild screwdriver leverage got it out.
 
Jim Kroeger said:
Thanks for all your suggestions about removing the distributor. I think I will play it safe and soak it in penetrating oil and try the puller. I tried the screwdriver trick but was afraid to force things. It is really stuck on there. My condenser keeps getting fried with the heat so that's why I want to try the modern points.
Click to expand...

Why is your engine running so hot? I'd fix that problem first, flush, flush, and flush.....
Also,why not buy the "better" condensers......
 
Jim Kroeger said:
Thanks for all your suggestions about removing the distributor. I think I will play it safe and soak it in penetrating oil and try the puller. I tried the screwdriver trick but was afraid to force things. It is really stuck on there. My condenser keeps getting fried with the heat so that's why I want to try the modern points.
Click to expand...

I have changed to modern points and back with out removng the distributor. I actually find that the original work really well (better than the modern setup ( and so much easier to set the points on) Condensors don't seem to be an issue at least for me Karl
 
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