distributor problrrm?

M

Mike C

Junior Member
I have a 48 f1. The engine is not original so I've been told. I bought it from a collector car dealer. It had a frame off restoration done by the previous owner. He converted it to 12v. Being the purist that I am, i wanted it to be original so I've gone back to 6v with the help of a friend. Most was done back in late May. My buddy replaced the points & condenser I was not there when he did it. Was unable to start it for a long time due to different issues. First was a short in a brand new 6v starter it wouldn't turn over and it fried the - battery terminal. Got the starter fixed and still wouldn't turn over. I figured out it had I needed to beef up my chassis ground. Turns over now. Then the fuel pump was bad. Replaced. Was able to star, but it runs awful. After about 3o seconds, white smoke comes out the rear and the carb starts flooding and I can smell raw gas out the exhaust.
Checked gap on points - perfect. Then realized the rotor was kind of loose & shakey. I have a '60 ford tractor that has a rotor retaining clip. I suspected it got lost in the tune up. Got online and discovered there wewre different distributors and clips. The only ones I could find were OBA-12213 and 7RA-12213- B. Got both plus a new rotor. the OBA is too big for the groove on the shaft and the 7RA doesn't allow me to put the rotor on the shaft. I've included pics. Thought maybe a valve might be stuck, but compression test says no. The new rotor goes on without a clip, but it doesn't seem to be tight enough.
Any suggestions what to do next? IMG_0161.JPG

IMG_0163.JPG
 
Does it have the correct carburetor? Is the vacuum line from the distributor connected to the carburetor? Could also have a fuel pressure issue (too high), carb float issue, etc.
 
Yes, carb is correct and the metal vacuum line is connected. Fuel pump is a brand new mechanical pump. The previous owner had installed an electric pump which I removed last year. Too much pressure.
The engine, I believe is an 8BA based an the castings of the heads.
 
The raw gas smell might indicate a over rich condition in the carb. The new mech pump may be over pressuring the carb. I put the spring from an old pump into my new pump to lower the pressure for this reason. There are a myriad of other reasons a 94 type carb will overfuel, a search should turn up lots of helpful advice. The ignition may be significant to the bad running, but the over rich problem shouldn't be caused by the distributor.

Mart.
 
That distributor is junk. You need to remove it, bead blast or wire wheel clean everything. Derust, chemical clean, lubricate and then, maybe with new parts you have something that will run. The rotors on those do fit loose.
 
My 94 tends to get too rich for its own good too, esp. in the warmer weather. Does better when it's cool out.

But yeah a good working over of the distributor oughtta nip it in the bud.
 
If the ignition wasn't iring properly, couldn't that cause raw gas to go into the exhaust system? Also, what about the rotor clips? Should there not be one on the top of the shaft and if so is there a different one that should go on it?
Thanks
 
Yes, there should be a spring clip to hold the rotor from wandering around. I think there are two types, the early one slipping into a slot in the top of the shaft and the later one just slipping over the end of the shaft. I think these later ones are available from the usual parts houses.
 
And I also agree that the whole distributor is a mess. And, the springs need to be properly adjusted under vacuum to control the advance, etc. I'd take Bubba up on his offer!! When the whole thing is happy they run just fine!!
 
The 1948 F1 was the first to have the 8BA engine so you at least have the original type of engine. The 8BA/94 Holley carb has a power valve that can go bad. It is a similar type power valve to later model Holley carbs and can blow out if the engine back fires through the carb. It will leak raw fuel down the throat after a blow out. It could also be the float isn't shutting off properly or, as previously mentioned, is being overpowered by the fuel pump. The fuel pump pressure will work a 2.5 psi on these carb/engine combos. Much more and it can blow right through the float valve. A pump pressure check can verify that.

White smoke from the exhaust can also be coolant leaking from an engine block crack into the exhaust or a blown head gasket. It will come out as steam. I hope that your problem is all fuel related but be aware. Check your exhaust carefully and make sure there is no coolant in the oil pan. You would have to do a coolant system pressure test to make sure there are no leaks.
 
Ggmac said:
Don't want to state the obvious , did you have your ground polarity correct ?
Click to expand...
Ggmac Is right on. A 12volt conversion also changes the polarity

these 6 volt systems were positive ground.
If that's OK then:
1. Check fuel pressure(1 1/2-2 PSI)
2. Inspect the power valve. Current power valves will leak. make sure the power valve is flat (no radius).
3. consider contacting Bubba. He really knows these ignition systems.

Good Luck !
 
welcome to the 'Barn....got pics of your truck??....and good luck with figuring out the issues with your engine, etc....lots of good info here on the 'Barn with lots of people who know their stuff.....Mike
 
As far as the flooding issue, the needle in the carb may be hanging up. The 94's are noted for this. The flooding would cause the gas smell out the tailpipe

Cars that are in a collection and are not used for a long time have their own set of problems, and carb problems are one. If the carb has not been looked at, it may need rebuilding, at least a good clean up.

The flooding has nothing to do with the distributor problems.
 
Mike C said:
How do I check the fuel pump pressure?
Click to expand...

My vacuum guage also has a pressure scale, just pull off the gas line before the carb and hook up the guage with some stout rubber hose, crank it a few times to get a reading, you don't need to start the engine.
 
The different distributors listed are for two different types, reflecting two types of timing covers. One type has a lower support bushing in the timing cover, with a longer distributor shaft to fit. The other has no lower bushing. As long as the distributor matches the timing cover you should be OK.
 

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i read somewhere wher there were 2 different timing covers. One was cast iron which used a cast iron dist. housing and the other was cast aluminum which used an aluminum housing. Is that correct? Also, if my distributor is okay, was ther a rotor retaining clip for the rotor and if so what is the numer, where exactly does it go and where can I get one?
Thanks again
 
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